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The Puppy Wizard
2004-05-12 04:28:16 EST
HOWEDY kilikini,

"kilikini" <kilikini1@NOSPAMhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:NBhoc.21076$EH6.13779@twister.socal.rr.com...
>
> Well, new situation arose today.

INDEED? CuriHOWES, ain't it.

> One of my best friends (whom Kai
> absolutely ADORES) and her mom
> came over today. Kai started barking
> at my friend's mom repeatedly which
> is unusual.

Perhaps you should teach him the
"NO BARK!" command, eh kilikini?

"He is very dominant. If I scold him for chasing
the cats, he'll bark at me back. When I say "no",
he'll bark. I say "no", he barks again. It's like
little kids going, no, yes, no, yes, no, yes.

INDEED?


You can break whining and barking by praising your dog:

"Estel J. Hines" <ejhines@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:w86dna9lBfNZgbTdRVn-hA@comcast.com...
>
> Until i read the Jerry method of Bark reductioon,
> it went something like this with our 11 month old
> puppy "Yoshi"
>
> Yoshi: Bark, bark,
>
> us: HUSH Youshi
>
> Yoshi Bark, bark......................
>
> us: Hush Youshi
>
> Yoshi BARK, BARK, BARK, .................................i
> it stopped when Yoshi got tired barking
>
> We decided to try the Jerry method
>
> :Yoshi: BARK, BARK
>
> US: GOOD Yoshi, Good Boy, who is it?
>
> Yoshi Bark, Bark
> US: It's ok, good boy Yoshi, We know them
>
> Yosh without fail, now stops after we say that
>
> I must say, it is so much more fun, when we
> can praise him, to deal with things like this
>
> Thanks Jerry
>
> ps: We are just starting to go thru the Jerry
> Papers, and learn how to live with our son
> "Yoshi", whom we love very much.
> --
> Best Regards,
>
> Estel J. Hines

==============

> > He barges past you when you're going thru
> > a door so that he makes it thru first, same
> > with hallways.

You should N.I.L.I.F. him. Ask leah abHOWET
that. She's a ACTION Trainer an she just been
to a dr. ian dunbar seminar where he taught her
to bribe and avoid behavior problems of the domestic
puppy dog they don't have the intellect toHOWEtwit.

> > And if he isn't getting immediate attention,
> > he claws you with his paws

That's probably DOMINANCE. Ask lying
"I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn abHOWET that.
She's been to a sue sternberg seminar so
she knows when to REALLY murder a dog
she's afraid to hurt someMOORE.
> > until you look at him and acknowledge him.

Master Of Deception blankman told you
to ignore the dog an tie IT to a wall for
ten minutes contemplation.

But leah sez ten seconds...

> > Sometimes it really hurts -

Yeah. Think allelomimetic behavior.
Try throwin him to the grHOWEND
an grHOWELING into his throat an
biting his ear.

sinofabitch sez:
> >> What I have said- repeatedly - is that he took
> >> posts from two different people,
> >> took pieces of them out of context,
> >> cobbled them together,
> >> then added his own words

"Neatly," and "Smartly."

> >>and a fake signature.

"sinofabitch" instead of sionnach.

> >> Which is exactly what he did.

> >> The actual quote is misleading
> >> when taken out of context, and Jerry's
> >> faked "quote" is downright meaningless.

> >Here's Jerry's version

> > "I Dropped The Leash, Threw My
> > Right Arm Over The Lab's Shoulder,
> > Grabbed Her Opposite Foot With My
> > Left Hand, Rolled Her On Her Side,
> > Leaned On Her, Smartly Growled Into
> > Her Throat And Said "GRRRR!" And
> > Neatly Nipped Her Ear," sinofabitch.

> >Here's yours;

> > "I dropped the leash, threw my
> > right arm over the Lab's shoulder,
> > grabbed her opposite foot with my
> > left hand, rolled her on her side,
> > leaned on her, said "GRRRR!" and
> > nipped her ear.
> > --Sara Sionnach

BWAHAHAHHAHAAAA!!!!!

When are you gonna FIGGER IT HOWET, People?

> > especially when you're sleeping.

If you're gonna hurt intimidate punish bribe
or ignore or otherWIZE negatively or ineffectively
interact with an undesirable behavior you must
REINFORCE EVERY INSTANCE till the behavior
is EXXXTINGUISHED or the problem will be
what the EXXXPERTS call VARIABLY REINFORCED.

So, when your dog misbehaves in front
of decent company, you'll be obligated
to abuse him in precisely the same manner
every time or you'll be considered CRUEL
by koehler's standards.

If you're gonna be a thug trainer you might
as well learn HOWE to do it RIGHT or you'll
end up with a DEAD DOG like kwbrown and
deirdre edwards amonst many of HOWER
dog lover's DEAD DOGS we've entertrained
right here.

> He usually loves people.

Yeah. That's HOWE COME he bit your
best friend's mother, whom you "loathe."

> Anway,

You mean anyHOWE. If you're gonna learn
HOWE to HURT your dog pupperly from The
Amazing Puppy Wizard you better get it RIGHT.

> she was showing me this old, old, rare
> book and as we talked about the book
> and got more excited about it, our voices
> got raised.

Yeah. The Amazing Puppy Wizard discusses
THAT in "argument school."

> To emphasize a point, this woman slapped
> my arm and Kai went NUTS.

Yeah. You shoulda praised him. Ooops! The
Amazing Puppy Wizard FORGOT you wanna
handle him like a THUG. O.K., it's YOUR
prerference. HERE'S HOWE to do it RIGHT.

You gotta pinch his ear just before he goes off.
Or you gotta shock him. Or you could jerk and
choke him on a pronged spiked pinch choke
collar and intstantly praise him. Or you could
do like THIS:

captain arthur haggerty SEZ: "A CHIN CHUCK" Makes A
ResoundingSound Distraction: "When You Chuck The Dog The Sound
Will Travel Up The Mandible To The Ears And Give A Popping Sound
To The Dog."

> He lunged for her, mouth open, but didn't
> bite down; just left a gooey mouth mark on
> her arm.

It'll maybe take a couple bites before he
gets the hang (ooops!) of CHOWEING
DHOWEN when he bites.

> I scolded him and banished him outside.

Have you taught him the "NO! " command?:

Here's research professor of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM
at UofWI marshall "SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM
"NO!" into ITS face for five seconds and lock IT in a
box for ten minutes contemplation" dermer:

"At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function.
But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and
shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases
then you will have achieved too things.

First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased;
and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher.

How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the
minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted
biting.

**********IS THAT A CONSISTENT 5 SECONDS?************

When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild
forms of punishment (I would hold my dog's mouth
closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came
before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above).

"No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog"
to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works." dermer.

> That is the FIRST time I've ever seen mean
> behavior out of that dog.

He's only WON year old. He's an early starter.

> He didn't bite her.....

Right. But he will.

> he didn't clamp down,

Was his first bite. Dogs need a little
practice usually before really diggin in.
That's a common problem for protection
dogs, they don't wanna bite hard. So the
experts make it FUN and the dog PLAYS.
When they're needed for work, they're
PLAYIN and likeWIZE, won't bite dHOWEN
when you want them to. That's shitsHOWEND
stuff.

Right nHOWE you just gotta learn basic
corrections if you wannt hurt and intimidate
your dog EFFECTIVELY.

> but he lunged, opened his mouth,
> and put her arm in his mouth.

Yeah. SHOWENDS like you've probably
overly controlled him cause you don't want
her pissin an moanin abHOWET your dog's
inapupriate behavior.

So NHOWE the dog fears her. It probably
started when you tried to stop his barkin.

ALL aggression is FEAR.

Your inapupriate or inconsistent scolding
and punishing his behaviors makes your
dog MOORE AFRAID of the circumstances
that set him off.

> What the heck is up with that??????????

You probably mildy scolded him for barkin.
That'll make the dog MOORE anxiHOWES.
That's HOWE COME scolding them seldom
works.

When you're gonna use what most
folks call negative reinforcement or
operant conditioning you gotta use
overwhelming fear force intimidation
or avoidance consistently till the behavior
is so feared the dog will NEVER do that again.

So long as you're standin there, cause
your dog already knows you can't stop
him from doin NUTHIN if you ain't there
supervising and punishing cause he's
untrained and he's WIZE to you.

> I'm more than a little concerned.

Got any idea HOWE many DEAD DOGS
we've entertrained to death for less dangeHOWES
behavios right here?

> MORE THAN!

Welcome to The Amazing Puppy Wizard's World.

> This is getting scary.

Every dog The Amazing Puppy Wizard
trains is scary cause HE gotta depend
on HIS FREE WWW Wits' End Dog
Training Method Manual Students followin
HIS method PRECISELY or they'll FAIL.

In the problem behavior business FAILURE
MEANS DEATH.

> I mean, he's my CHILD!

Same same for the problem child
behavior BUSINESS. That's HOWE
COME good folks like dr. p and professor
SCRUFF SHAKE won't TALK BUSINESS
with The Amazing Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) >

Can you blame them?

> Granted, this woman has a huge negative
> cloud around her head and I loathe her.

That's kindly of you.

> She can't say one nice thing about anyone
> and whines like an unoiled gasket.

Hmmm....

> Can he pick up on the fact that I don't like her?

Hunh? Oh, probably not, especially knowin you.

> Seems weird

Yeah. Weird.

> because he started barking at her before
> she got out of the car and she's never been
> here before.

Oh, at least you're in better LUCK than
liea was when her dog Cubbe bit her only
friend whom she knew well like them kids
she tried to get for standin in her shock zone.

> She's only visiting from the mainland.

Well, she probably won't return.

> I understand that Kai's being protective,

No, he's bein afraid.

> but again, he's 11 months old.

Yeah. He'll be in a adolescent rebelliHOWES
stage till maybe five years old, then he'll go
through his final maturation stage by six.

Chances are if they haven't turned on you
by then they won't. At least till they develop
tumors on their pituitary gland from STRESS.

> Is this normal behavior?

INDEED.

> Should I be concerned?

Most folks here abHOWETS with dogs
like yours MURDER them and blame the
breed.

> PLEASE ADVISE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Amazing Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW
Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual
Students get 100% CONSISTENT SCUCCESS
NEARLY INSTANTLY cause The Amazing
Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog
Training METHOD is 100% CONSISTENT.

And PERFECT.

> I'm so scared, people.

As well you should be. The next time
your dog does this you should probably
be prepared to hang him for the next
few times till he associates the punishment
with the crime.

You got a heavy man's leather belt like
it sez in HOWER koehler book?

> I've never hit this dog

Right. You just scold reject and banish him.

> and I've tried to only raise him in a loving environment.

Right. But you LIKE punishing and
that submissive look your dog gives
you. That's called Sadism.

>Please, please, help me.

Haven't you had enough heelp already?

> kili

Perhaps you just need some puppy
raising tips?

"At this point, "No" does not have any
behavioral function. But, if you say "No,"
pick up the puppy by its neck and shake
it a bit, and the frequency of the biting
decreases then you will have achieved
too things.

First, the frequency of unwanted chewing
has decreased; and two, you have established
"No" as a conditioned punisher.

How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the
minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted
biting.

**********IS THAT A CONSISTENT 5 SECONDS?************

When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild
forms of punishment (I would hold my dog's mouth
closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came
before stronger punishment (the kind discussed above).

"No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog"
to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works."

Subject: Re: Dog Bit Me 4 Times "I Think
I Raised Him Very Badly."
Date: 2004-05-07 12:21:16 PST

HOWEDY h1r3z,

"H1R3Z" <h1r3z@(SPAMTRAP)phantomemail.com> wrote in message
news:c7g5qr$3ln$1@titan.btinternet.com...
>
> "The Puppy Wizard" <ThePuppyWizard@earthlink.net> wrote in
message
> news:LqPlc.4736$8S1.842@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> > HOWEDY EGD,
> >
> > Dogs do not become aggressive cause
> > they're "SPOILED" they become aggressive
> > cause THAT'S WHAT THEY'RE TAUGHT
> > in "traditional obdedience trainin."
>
> Not true.

Well, at least you're willin to DISS-CUSS
behaviorISM with The Amazing Puppy Wizard.

You'll find HOWET HOWE COME HOWER
EXXXPERTS don't reply to The Amazing
Puppy Wizard in just a couple moments.

> Dogs can be taught to be aggressive as
> much as they can be taught to not be
> aggressive.

Correct. Like HOWE tara o. aka tee and
kwbrown TAUGHT their dogs to become
FEAR AGGRESSIVE and MURDERD their
dogs.

> > > "Most" dog bites are by male dogs, unneutered,
> >
> > CITES PLEASE.
>
> Male dogs are no more inclined to bite than
> female dogs,

Correct.

> however the male hormone acts in a similar
> way to humans, thereby giving a 'natuarally'
> more aggressive inclination.

False. Recent university studies have
shown hormones have NUTHING to
do with ABUSE and AGGRESSION.

Those are LEARNED traits.

> This does not mean they will bite more
> readily though.

Correct. Biting is CAUSED by FEAR.
ALL aggression is FEAR.

> Most dogs that come to me for selection

"SELECTION?" Are you a dog trainer?

> are male for this very reason.

No. That's coincidental. The next person
in your situation may report the opposite.

> The aggressive trait is more prominant and
> therefore easier to deal with

That's ABSURD.

> than a - lets say - unpredictable dog.

You mean a FEARFUL dog.

> > > who have had no formal obedience training
> >
> > NO. Most dogs bite on accHOWENT of they've
> > been ABUSED as part of their TRAINING.
>
> Cites please...

THAT'S all in The Amazing Puppy Wizard's
Archives on Google.com.

> Your way of thinking is very dated I think,

Perhaps you're not familiar with the subject matter.

> in controlled, legal situations, no dogs are
> ever harmed or abused in their training,

That so? Evidently you've never seen
typical police or military trainin or never
seen a professional trainer like we got
here abHOWETS.

The Amazing Puppy Wizard will END this
discussion FAST by simply QUOTING a
few of HOWER regular posters.

You know, like the text you snipped from
the other thread "NICK."

Evidently that scared you.

> even when the training includes a command
> to apprehend a human.

The Amazing Puppy Wizard has over
forty years EXXXPERIENCE specializing
in temperamant and behavior problems
and protection training.

> > > or have had little or no interaction with
> > > humans or other animals

Lack of "socialization" got NUTHIN to do
with the ability to NOT BE AFRAID and
NOT ATTACK dogs or people.

ALL AGGRESSION IS FEAR.

ALL BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS ARE
CAUSED BY MISHANDLING.

> > Lack of "socialization" does not make
> > dogs AFRAID. MISHANDLING as taught
> > in "traditional obedience training" makes
> > them AFRAID.
>
> Define mishandling.

Any use of fear force bribery intimidation
withholding affection punishment scolding
and crating to avoid behavior problems.

> Define 'traditional obedience training'

AS STATED. ANY of the above.

> If you refer to age old techniques

You mean HOWER "PROVEN EFFECTIVE
METHODS USED BY MILLIONS."

> then in part you are correct, however, those
> practices have not been applied for decades,

That so? Perhaps you never read
HOWER forum?

> not in legal circumstances anyway.

What we're talkin abHOWET in LEGAL terms
is CRIMINALLY INSANE ANIMAL ABUSE.

> > > and have reached sexual maturity.

HOWER DOG LOVERS surgically mutilate
dogs caues they FEAR their behaviors.

> > Seems SEX is a big fear of yours, egd.
> What provoked that comment?

Neutering CAUSES fear aggression in
15% of surgical mutilatees.

> The posters knowledge of dog control has no
> bearing whatsoever on their sexual orientation,
> hangups or anything else.

Right. It's got to do with FEAR of testes.

> > > I could never count the letters I have
> > > received over the years, from owners
> > > of just one breed, who have now realised
> > > they have a grown dog, who has already
> > > displayed signs of aggression toward other
> > > dogs in the family "and" children and adults
> > > in the family.
> >
> > THAT'S FEAR. FEAR is CAUSED by
> > MISHANDLING and ABUSE, not "spoiling,"
> > not BEING KIND.
>
> Once again, not true. Dogs will bite for
> MANY reasons other than fear of abuse.

SHOWENDS like dogs are dangerHOWES.

> > > These were, incidentally, dogs who were
> > > not banished to the backyard, but had grown
> > > up within the family group.
> >
> > Yeah. Had they been left to their owndevices
> > in their backyard they're be FINE. What makes
> > dogs FEAR AGGRESSIVE of other dogs and
> > small children is PUNISHING and THREATENING
> > them to BEHAVE.
> >
>
> This gets tiresome.

INDEED.

> Is this your answer to everything?

Only on accHOWENT of it's FACT
and the DATA in The Amazing Puppy
Wizard's Archives PROVES IT.

> If so, when people provide for a regular
> family dog in the best way they can,

According to the BEST advice of their
pet professionals...

> without ever raising their voice, or a hand
> to the dog, and they still get a snap, how do
> you explain that?

Fear OR barrier frustration syndrome.
Dogs do not bite unless they're AFRAID
or have been restrained and aggitated.

> Let me guess, psychological abuse?

INDEED. Like locking dogs in a crate.
Like HOWE COME tara o. aka tee's
DEAD DOG Summer became FEAR
AGGRESSIVE of small children.

> Maybe they sleep-abuse the dog huh?

Could be, if they're crated at nite.

> > > Most owners admitted they had given
> > > the dog no formal training and had probably
> > > spoiled him.
> > You mean all they done was locked their
> > dog in a box and scolded IT when IT wasn't
> > BEHAVING NICE.
>
> You know this for a fact?

It's ALL in The Amazing Puppy Wizard's
Archives on Google.

> You know the owner in question?

We have CASE HISTORIES of DEAD
DOGS like Summer Sampson Raggdoll
Teena Fritz Peaches and much much MOORE.

> or is this just another of your 'expert' conclusions?

You want to DISS-CUSS FACTS or
do you want to launch ad hominium
attacks on The Amazing Puppy Wizard?

The Amazing Puppy Wizard NEVER
launches ad hominum attacks UNTIL
AFTER HE'S thHOWErHOWEly
DISCREDITED THEM by QUOTIN
their own words.

The Amazing Puppy Wizard recommends
you should do likeWIZE.

> > > Most had not been neutered.
> > Neutering is unnecessary inapupriate
> > surgical mutilation which causes 15%
> > of mutilatees to become FEAR AGGRESSIVE.
>
> Again, not true.

Cause YOU say so?

> You call yourself a trainer?

No. The Amazing Puppy Wizard.

> an expert?

The formost authority on behaviorISM.

> I laugh at you sir.

ENJOY!

> You are giving bad advice.

The Amazing Puppy Wizard gets
100% NEARLY INSTANT SUCCESS
all over the Whole Wild World from
settin right here, stark ravin nekkid.

There ain't another trainer anywhere
who can claim THAT.

The REASON IS, ALL BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS
ARE CAUSED BY MISHANDLING. That's GOOD.
That means we can CURE ALL BEHAVIOR
problmes NEARLY INSTANTLY.

It's ALL in The Amazing Puppy Wizard's Archives.

> As earlier stated, the aggression is,
> in part hormonal,

THAT'S INSANE.

FurtherMOORE, it's been PROVEN to
be FALSE in the most recent studies
at Harvard and UCLA.

>neutering removes a certain element of this.

That's the big lie.

> I agree it is not ALWAYS so,

Well, if you're not gettin CONSISTENT
RESULTS, that means your THEORY
IS DEAD WRONG.

> but it does generally calm an unnaturally
> aggressive dog,

In less than 50% of the cases according to the avma.

> albeit in some cases not totally.

THEN YOU'RE BLOWIN SMOKE UP HOWER ARSES.

> > > There's no substitute for early training,
> > Your "TRAINING" is HOWE COME dogs
> > become FEAR AGGRESSIVE.
>
> And your training leaves a lot to be desired.

100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CONTROL
NEARLY INSTANTLY AS REPORTED ALL
OVER THE WHOLE GODDAMNED WILD WORLD.

> If your answer to everything
> is that the owner is abusing the dog.

PROVEN FACT.

Here's research professor of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM
at UofWI marshall "SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM
"NO!" into ITS face for five seconds and lock IT in a
box for ten minutes contemplation," dermer:

"At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function.
But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and
shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases
then you will have achieved too things.

First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased;
and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher.

How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the
minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted
biting.

**********IS THAT A CONSISTENT 5 SECONDS?************

When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild
forms of punishment (I would hold my dog's mouth
closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came
before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above).

"No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog"
to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works."

> > > Can save many major problems in the future.
> > > Retraining of dominant dogs can be done, but
> > > it's not easy and takes a really committed owner.
> > Well that's a load of CRAP.
> > Rehabilitating FEAR AGGRESSION takes
> > a couple days at most.
>
> Not true,

IT'S ALL IN The Amazing Puppy Wizard's Archives.

> many dogs cannot be brought down to
> an acceptable level of control,

You mean by surgical mutilation? Or do
you mean by locking IT in a box? Or do
you mean by TRADITIONAL METHODS?:

captain arthur haggerty SEZ: "A CHIN CHUCK"
Makes A ResoundingSound Distraction: "When
You Chuck The Dog The Sound Will Travel Up
The Mandible To The Ears And Give A Popping
Sound To The Dog."

> that is exactly why many military installations
> have a selection process,

The military is NOT handling dogs pupperly.

> to identify High-drive or low-drive dogs' potential.

BWEHAHAHAHAHHAAAA!!!

> Tell me, for example how would you 'retrain'
> a gun-aggressive dog to not be, in a couple
> of days?

That usually only takes a few minutes. It's
all in your FREE copy of The Puppy Wizard's
FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method
Manual.

> If you can do this, why are you not earning
> top money as a handler?

Oh, THAT'S EZ! The Amazing Puppy Wizard
doesn't NEED to WORK with dogs cause trainin
dogs is NOT a "PHYSICAL SKILL" you gotta learn
at the heel of a lying dog abusing punk thug coward
mental case.

> > You're FULL OF CRAP.
> And your word is Gospel?

EVEN BETTER.

The Amazing Puppy Wizard's posts are TIMELESS.

> Your attitude is not one of a knowledgeable person,

Let's talk abHOWET RESULTS.

> it is more one of a person trying to impress
> with the use of petty put-downs & innaccurate
> advice based on dated techniques.

The Amazing Puppy Wizard can even CURE
ALL BEHAVIOR problems AUTOMAGICKALLY:
http://www.doggydoright.com

The Amazing Puppy Wizard has enjoyed humiliating
and debunking HOWER so called EXXXPERTS
so much HE figgers you'll likeWIZE enjoy the
comedy of death terror and error. The Puppy
Wizard calls this phase of dog trainin ATTRITIION
for past crimes against man, dog, and humanity:

Borrowed from: "Puppy Raising Tips" from
professional trainers, John and Amy Dahl.

"Around four months many puppies can withstand a
correction. Unfortunately this is the time they start
teething and if their mouth hurts, they may act
generally sensitive. If this is the case, be patient and
wait for all those baby teeth to fall out.

In training, retrievers often respond to physical correction
better than verbal correction. While "NO!" is extremely
useful if puppy is about to bite an electrical cord or steal
food off the table, when you are teaching them something
(like obedience) a sharp jerk on their lead or swat with a
stick gets the message across with less emotion and less
effect on their confidence.

If they drop the dummy and act like their mouth hurts
when they are teething, stop all retrieving and wait for
their mouth to feel better. A correction should be just
severe enough to get the dog to respond.

Repeated weak corrections are very stressful to the dog."
End lying frosty dahl.

"Puppy Problems Prevented"
CanineHealthOnline.org. - JERRYIZED

HOWEDY People,

This is the typical bullshit you're gonna find from
your expert veterinary behaviorists and expert dog
trainers:

"Question: I have a 4 month old Great Dane female
puppy who has the habit of biting and catching the
lead in her mouth to shake it in a playful manner
when we walk. I am planning to show her in
conformation and need to break this habit. I rubbed
Bitter Apple on the lead but to no avail. I am using
Tabasco pepper sauce now but it is only partially
effective.

I try telling her "leave it" and pulling it downward.
Any help you can give me would be appreciated. "

The world faMOUSE cap'n arthur haggerty replies:

"This is not a difficult problem to solve but"

But our expert can't teach us HOWE to do that
without HURTIN the dog...

" it is very difficult to explain because"

Because he has NO method, only fear force
confrontation intimidation pain and aversives.

" of the many variations and nuances involved in
doing so. "

IOW the lying dog abusing Thug needs to couch his
words carefully cause he can only tell us to HURT
our dogs, PEOPLE!

" Your use of Bitter Apple and Tabasco sauce is
not a bad move"

That'll endear the dog to working with the handler on
lead, and establish trust love and confidence.

" and I would continue to use it."

First use aversives, and if that don't work, HURT
THE DOG EVEN MOORE, to be fair... cause
THAT'S ALL our dog lovers know HOWE to do.

Should take a few minutes to train this dog not to do
that... without hurtin him.

" One correction that can be used is chucking the
dog under the chin when she is biting on the leash. "

Kindly enough advice. When done correctly
according to koehler, our good captain's teacher,
the dog will not realize you are the only one with
hands standin there.

" Let me briefly explain the chucking technique."

EXCELLENT! Our dog lovers here don't like to give
detailed advice, so's they don't unintentionally
mislead nobody noHOWE.

" Cup your hand so that your thumb and forefinger
create a circle."

Kinda like our professor lying doc scruff shake
dermer does when he relaxes on his couch?

" Your hand comes from the bottom up to the lower
portion of the mandible so the Dane doesn't see it at
all. "

Right. Although big enough to take your hand off at
the shoulder, they're big stupid dogs and won't
realize it's YOU who just slapped him in the mouth,
and will not even know you're his tormentor.

" When you chuck the dog the sound will travel up
the mandible to the ears and give a popping sound
to the dog. "

AHHH YES! Sound Distraction as taught by the good
capn!

" Use a verbal correction at the same time. "

You mean like offering to make a deal?

" Do it as many times as it takes to get the dog to
stop. "

I've seen Danes not stop, not for over a year till the
dog was too dangerous to do anything with...except
by me.

" You will not be able to deliver that correction
every time so "

So that means the variable reinforcement will negate
the method, antagonize the dog, and exacerbate the
anxiety which is causing the dog to mouth and chew
on the lead to defend himself from being jerked and
choked on his pronged spiked pinch choke collar that
is necessary for these monster sized dogs which
I grew up with training serious behavior problems
without hurting them, cause the loser DIES... when
you fight with a dog that's too big to intimidate and
hurt enough to make IT respect your Godlike
AUTHORITY.

" supplement it with a collar correction. "

A jerk and choke will teach the dog you are in
control... and the guy in control is the bum who's
slappin him around and jerking and choking him for
objecting to being jerked and choked in the first
place, PEOPLE.

" An obedience foundation will certainly help. "

AS STATED.

" Now this is the fastest and longest lasting approach
in solving the problem. "

That so, capn? You're a liar and a dog abuser and
got to get exposed to the akc and run outta
business, good buddy. We'll be seeing a lot of each
other in the very near future.

This town ain't big enough for the both
of us, cap'n... I'm worldwide.

Get outta Doge. Jerry Howe, The Puppy Wizard.
<{}; ~ ) >





If you are interested in purchasing a dignified stick
to lay across you puppy's arse, just send a personal
check or money order in the amount of $30-$40 for a
30"-40" long whuppin stick.

These all natural hickory switches will outlast an
entire litter of puppies! MAYBE MOORE!! Supplies
limited, so HURRY! Be the first in your club to have
the hickory switch training aid guaranteed for the
life of your dog (which may be much shorter than
nature intended!).

Ask yourself: "HOWE COME DOESN'T JERRY HURT DOGS TO
TRAIN THEM?"

And then just answer: "On AccHOWENT Of JERRY KNOWS
HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS WITHOUT HURTING THEM."

And THEN SAY OUT LHOWED: "IGNORE JERRY, HE'S MEAN TO
DOG ABUSERS."

You can get all the information you need to PUPPERLY
handle and train your dog using non force, non
confrontational, scientific and psychological methods,
in your FREE copy of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW Wits'
End Dog Training Method Manual.


Psychoclown wrote:

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is
something you twisted out of context, because you are
full of bizarro manure."

Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and
says:

"I don't beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the
benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not
to read the article (SHE'D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON'T
READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of twisting ears
(INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES).

I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO
BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM).

I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE'S A
PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to
ADMIT THE TRUTH???).

I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever,
where slapping a dog is anything but destructive."

RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists... and chin cuff
doesn't mean hit, according to lyinglynn and
avrama....

amy lyingfrosty dahl continues:

"Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a
helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher,
less tractable dogs may require you to progress to
striking them more sharply.

REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.

Now you are ready to progress to what most people
think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch.

Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent
that resisting your will fades in importance.

but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their
efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded
collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still
does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell.

Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the
collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist!
Eventually, the dog will give in

With your hand on the collar and ear, say, 'fetch.'

Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the
stick.

Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the
dummy. You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell
instead of your thumb; Say 'fetch' while pressing the
dummy against its lips and pinching its ear."

Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St.
Francis.

We're gonna teach folks THAT AIN'T NORMAL

That's HOWE COME HOWER DOG LOVERS can't post here
abHOWETS noMOORE.

The Puppy Wizard. <} ; ~ ) >

Amy Dahl writes:

"From where I sit, there is a difference. I haven't
noticed any of the contingent who like Koehler trying
to force their method on everyone, or calling others
names because they do not use the method.

I personally believe the Koehler method is a more
humane way of teaching than any alternative I have
studied.

And I am not averse to learning--I have studied a
number of methods.

Koehler, of course, stops far short of the specialized
work I do with retrievers, and some of the things in
his book, such as making the dog walk behind the
handler on the "finish," are inappropriate for
retriever work.

Why do I think Koehler's method is more humane than
others?

First, I don't believe "corrections vs. no
corrections" is as significant to dogs as it is to
people. Applied correctly, Koehler's method uses *no*
intimidation, fear, or emotional manipulation. It is
clear and definite, and the handler's actions are
always predictable. The method is masterfully
designed to prevent confrontation or vying for control
in any way. It places high demands of responsibility
on the trainer, and takes a great deal of commitment
to do correctly, so it is not for the casual
"dabbler." When done well,very few corrections are
needed.

In brief, I think the clarity, predictability, and
absence of emotional blackmail weigh more strongly in
the method's favor, than the occasional brief
unpleasantness of correction weighs against it." lying
frosty dahl.

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book
House, 1996":

"Housebreaking problems:

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to
relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how
often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog
may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid
correction.

When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to
the place of his error, and hold his head close enough
so that he associates his error with the punishment.
Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.

It is important to your future relationship that you
do not rush at him and start swinging before you get
hold of him.

When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances
are, if you are careful in your feeding and close
observation, you will not have to do much punishing.
Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost
house-broken and then force him to commit an error by
not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.

The same general techniques of housebreaking apply
to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.

For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and
then backslides, the method of correction differs
somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the
"revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by
messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed.

The first step of correction is to confine the dog
closely in a part of the house when you go away, so
that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The
fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof
that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you
no other course than to punish him sufficiently to
convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing
is not worth the consequences.

If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression
can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard
spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by
the mess he's made so you can come back at twenty
minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing.

In most cases, the dog that deliberately does
this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog,
as well as the house, if you really pour it on him.

Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can
aid in your house-breaking program. One type
discourages the dog from even visiting an area.
Another encourages him to relieve himself in the
area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be
able to supply further information on the brands
available in your district.

Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and
be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and
you'll soon accomplish the job.

BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING,
SCREAMING, AND WAILING

The fact that you realize you have such a problem
makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often
enough to let him know you were against his sound
effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet them,
so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of
water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start
with something more emphatic.

We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to
correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors,
and windows, barking furiously at familiar or
imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs
from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light
line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog
to use his mind rather than his mouth.

But you won't make the permanent impression unless
you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise
the control he thus acquires. Make sure these
opportunities don't always come at the same time
of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.

With the help of the light line, it will be easy to
follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets
the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before,
eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the
dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows
more discriminating, increase it.

The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or
lonesomeness because you're gone constitutes a
different problem. If it is impractical for someone
to stay with him constantly (there are owners who
cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll
have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the
dog.

This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy
hand.

Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective
effort doesn't turn into a footrace around the house
until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of
the line in the correction will also serve to
establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog
drags it around when you're not present.

Next, equip yourself with a man's leather belt or a
strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good
tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard.
Remember, you're dealing with a dog who knows he
should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to
see that he does.

When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to
the door so you can barge in while he's still barking,
which is generally impossible, respond to his first
sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep
on bellowing as you charge back to his area.

Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt
that you've conveniently placed, and descend on him.
He'll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and
reel him in until his front feet are raised off the
floor or, if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him
up with a hitch on something.

While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.

Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter
end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat
on the number of repeat performances that will be
necessary.

When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he
is, put him on a long down to think things over while
you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty
minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area
again.

So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the
truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are
given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black
box with the sweet smell. Personally, I've always felt
that it's even better to spank children, even if they
"cry out," than to "put them to sleep."

You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch
before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he
does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent
correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking,
if anything emphasizing it a bit more.

It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another
day off so that you'll have time to follow through
sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be
able to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job
easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the
time, he'll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency.

After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the
correction" will be tied in close enough association
so that you can move in on him without the preliminary
bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just a case of
laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like
gambling.

If there has been a long history of barking and
whining, it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a
dog be quiet when you're not around, so give the above
method an honest try before you presume your dog
requires a more severe correction." wm koehler.

Here's lyingdogDUMMY aka jack morrison aka joey
finnochiario aka tommy soronson of soronson's
retriever kennels, MO, USA BEATING A DOG to HOWEsbreak
IT:

"Handsome Jack Morrison"
<*n@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in
<message
news:a236iv0ngp58gv9jmi818kbmk928rjcokq@4ax.com...
> On 26 Jul 2003 22:14:29 GMT, dogstar716@aol.com
> (DogStar716)
wrote:
>
> >>>Never mind dogman :)
> >>
> >>You too? Some folks just never learn.
> >
> >Uh huh :)
>
> One of the signs of mental illness is to say "Uh
> huh" a lot.
>
> >>PS: If the "trainer" you were talking about isn't
> >>on this list, he (or she) is NOT an approved
> >>Koehler trainer, no matter how loud you scream
> >>otherwise.
> >
> >May I laugh again? LOL! One doesn't need to be on
> >a list to use Koehlers methods or teach his
> >methods.
>
> Let me be among the first (apparently) to tell you
> that not every trainer who uses a leash is a
> *Koehler* trainer.
>
> Sheesh.
>
> This person may call herself a Koehler trainer, but
> if she's hanging 12 week old puppies, she's about as
> far from a Koehler trainer as a dog trainer can
> possibly be.
>
> Again, this is just your IGNORANCE showing.
>
> I can call myself a devout Christian, but if I'm not
> adhering to the doctrine, I'm something else.
>
> >>http://www.koehlerdogtraining.com/patoflearn.html
> >Sorry, the very first sentences make me aware that
> >whoever wrote it knows nothing about PR based
> >training:
> >
> >"Amidst the current (and politically correct) trend
> >in Positive Reinforcement Only training systems"
> >
> >You cannot use PR only.
>
> Au contraire. Many, many posters to r.p.d.b. (and
> many other places as well) *claim* that they use
> nothing but R. You know, the PPers.
>
> And they do it quite loudly, too.
>
> Surely you aren't blind (and deaf), as well as
> ignorant?
>
> Those are hard handicaps to overcome, Dogstar.
>
> >And if you knew anything about PR BASED training,
> >you would realize that. It's not all cookies and
> >babytalk.
>
> There is no stronger supporter of R than Handsome
> Jack Morrison, but I also use every behavioral tool
> in my bag, including R-, P, and P-, because I know
> that even R has its limits.
>
> You'd know that too, if you didn't have your head in
> the sand.
>
> > But that seems to be the battle cry of the
> > Koehler-ites.
>
> The Koehlerites have no battle cry.
>
> They have behaviorism on their side, and that's more
> than enough.
>
> >I don't need instruction on how to give my dogs a
> >proper leash correction as I do not rely on a leash
> >to control or teach my dog.
>
> That may or may not be suitable for your needs, but
> it's not suitable for the majority of dog owners,
> especially since the advent of leash laws.
>
> Besides, after just a few weeks of proper Koehler
> training, Koehler dogs likewise are no longer in
> need of a leash.
>
> That you apparently don't know that, once again
> shows me just how ignorant of anything to do with
> Koehler you are.
>
> >My last two dogs have been trained offleash right
> >from the start, using rewards for what I like, and
> >nothing for what I don't like.
>
> Good for you, and if that level of training is good
> enough for you, fine. But it's not good enough for
> many of the rest of us.
>
> >Again, I'm not saying Koehler doesn't work.
>
> I really have no idea what you're saying anymore,
> because you apparently know so damn little about
> Koehler and behavioral principles in general that
> it's hard to have an informed discussion with you.
>
> PS: It boggles my mind at how stupid you must be to
> keep denying that those certain harsh methods are
> only for LAST RESORT situations, intended only to
> SAVE A DOG'S LIFE, even after I've repeatedly given
> you direct *quotes* from Koehler's book saying just
> that. It's like you don't even care how stupid
> people think you are, or how devious you are, etc.
> That can't help your cause any. You'd think that
> you'd at least want to *appear* to be honest, even
> if you're not. -- Handsome Jack Morrison *gently
> remove the detonator to reply via e-mail


"Handsome Jack Morrison"
<*n@thedetonatorearthlink.net> wrote in
<message
news:spb3ivgh7prvq9omhka0bcif0tfknv6oop@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 25 Jul 2003 17:52:18 -0400, "Krishur"
> <kris_brock@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >Good books huh?
>
> Absolutely. Some are, in fact, classics.
>
> >Which idea was your favorite, the one where they
> >tell you to alpha roll a "dominant" dog,
>
> There's nothing inherently wrong with rolling a dog
> (i.e., it *can* and *does* work in *some*
> situations). Unfortunately, most people either do it
> incorrectly, do it at the wrong time, etc.
>
> >or where they tell you that you didn't hit him hard
> >enough if he doesn't yelp or approaches you within
> >5 minutes of his punishment?
>
> If physical discipline is deemed necessary (after
> careful evaluation), it's much more cruel not to get
> it over with quickly than it is to do it
> incrementally and half-heartedly, which usually only
> invites the need for even more discipline.
>
> >Maybe you liked when they recommend these beatings
> >for housebreaking accidents, chewing/destructive
> >behavior, stealing, trying to get on your bed
> >at night and dog on dog aggression.
>
> At no time do the Monks *ever* advocate beating a
> dog. A swat on the rump or a check to the chin does
> *not* constitute a "beating."
>
> I'm sorry if you don't agree.
>
> And each of those behavior "problems" needs to be
> looked at in its proper context.
>
> A quote from the Monks:
>
> "We repeat, these situations may merit physical
> discipline. Since no book can pretend to analyze
> every individual dog and situation, we feel
> obligated to emphasize from the outset that
> discipline is never an arbitrary training
> technique to be applied to each and every dog for
> all offenses. We do, however, believe that physical
> and verbal discipline can be an effective technique.
> The best policy if you experience any of the above
> problems is to consult a qualified trainer or
> veterinarian for evaluation of your individual
> situation....
>
> "If discipline is decided upon as a training
> technique, it should be the proper technique. We
> feel we have developed several methods that depend
> less on violent physical force than timing, a flair
> for drama, and the element of surprise.
> We feel an obligation, as responsible trainers, to
> map out
> these methods, rather than simply skip the topic
> because it is unpleasant. Dog owners want to know
> what to do."
>
> In other words, physical discipline is reserved for
> those serious, special occasions when other methods
> have failed.
>
> For example, they do not recommend using physical
> discipline for *routine* housebreaking chores --
> only on those rare occasions when an already
> reliably housebroken dog is (after careful
> evaluation) deemed to be soiling the house on
> purpose, backsliding, etc.
>
> I'll give you an actual example. Years ago, an
> adult dog was brought to me as an *incurable*
> house-soiler. It was either get the dog reliably
> housetrained or the dog was going on a one way trip
> to the pound. Being the kind, compassionate trainer
> that I am, I was prepared to do whatever it took to
> get this dog house-trained and save his life.
>
> After several weeks of more or less traditional
> training, and to poor result, I brought out the big
> guns -- physical and verbal discipline. Whenever the
> dog soiled the house (no, you don't even have to
> catch him in the act), I immediately (but very
> calmly) tossed a leash on his collar, dragged him to
> the scene of the crime, and (using a large
> chair as a prop) tethered him to the leg of the
> chair, with his nose about two inches away from the
> poop. After a couple of swats on the rump, some
> loud vocalizing, and a wait of about 20 minutes, I'd
> release the dog and then ignore him for a while. I
> had to repeat this process *three* times, I think --
> and the house-soiling miraculously stopped. The dog
> went home to enjoy a long and contented life with
> his original owners, and I got to feel good about
> myself.
>
> So, yes, the Monk's books are good ones. Even for
> novices.
>
> Yup, that's my opinion, and I'm sticking to it.
>
> -- Handsome Jack Morrison *gently remove the
> detonator to reply via e-mail


> > > Jerome Bigge writes:
> > > I do know that hitting, hurting
> > > your dog will often make the
> > > dog either aggressive or a fear
> > > biter, neither of which we want to do.

And then we got, matty! Follow his discussion!
This is what's called, a liar and dog abuser:

> > And neither does anyone else,
> > Jerome. No matter
> > what Jerry Howe states.

lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver:
For barking in the crate - leave the leash on and
pass it through the crate door. Attach a line to it.
When he barks, use the line for a correction.

- if necessary, go to a citronella bark collar.

Lynn K.

> ================

That's INSANE. Ain't it. So's this, here's professor of
ANAL-ytic behaviorISM research at UofWI marshall
"SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM "NO!" into ITS face
for five seconds and lock IT in a box for ten minutes
contemplation" dermer:

"At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function.
But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and
shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases
then you will have achieved too things.

First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased;
and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher.

How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the
minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted
biting.

**********IS THAT A CONSISTENT 5 SECONDS?************

When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild
forms of punishment (I would hold my dog's mouth
closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came
before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above).

"No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog"
to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works."

That's HOWE COME your dog has OCD behaviors
and is deathly ill from The Puppy Wizard's SYNDROME.

"Just Want To Second Jerry's Method For
Dealing With This (Destructive Separation
Anxiety). I've Suggested It To Quite A Few
Clients Now And It's Worked 'EVERY TIME
The Very First Time' - marilyn, Trainer, 33
Years Experience.

You DO remember KILLFILING MARILYN for
her coment above regarding her success with
The Puppy Wizard's Surrogate Toy Separation
Anxiety / Bed Time Calming / Submissive
Urination Technique (STSA/BTC/SUT)?

Perhaps you likeWIZE recall a pediatrician, Dr. Z,
who commented that his bed time calming technique
was quite similar?

> > You're scary Marilyn.

> > Marilyn must be quite a disturbed
> > individual. I feel very sorry for her
> > and her family.

"His Amazing Progress Almost Makes Me Cry.
Your Method Takes Positive Training To The
Next Level And Should Really Be Used By All
Trainers Who Call Themselves Trainers. Thank
You For Helping Me Save His Life," Kay Pierce,
Professional Trainer, 30 Years Experience.

> > BUT, giving you the benefit of the
> > doubt, please provide a quote (an
> > original quote, not from one of Jerry
> > Howe's heavily edited diatribes) that
> > shows a regular poster promoting or
> > using an abusive form of training.

BWWWWEAAAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!

> > --Matt. Rocky's a Dog.

lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver:
For barking in the crate - leave the leash on and
pass it through the crate door. Attach a line to it.
When he barks, use the line for a correction.

- if necessary, go to a citronella bark collar.

Lynn K.

> ================

That's INSANE. Ain't it.

"Many People Have Problems Getting The Pinch
Right, Either They Do Not Pinch Enough, Or They
Have A Very Stoic Dog. Some Dogs Will Collapse
Into A Heap. About The Ear Pinch: You Must Keep
The Pressure Up," sindy "don't let the dog SCREAM"
mooreon, author of HOWER FAQ's pages on k9 web.

You think HURTING a HUNTING DOG to
MAKE IT HUNT is NECESSARY???

"Well, Jack Did Hit My Dog. Actually I'd Call It
A Sharp Tap Of The Crook To The Nose. I Know
Jack Wouldn't HaveDone It If He Thought Solo
Couldn't Take It. I Still Crate Him Because
Otherwise I Fear He Might Eat My Cat," melanie.

You think allowing a "FEAR AGGRESSIVE MAN
SHY" dog to be BEATEN by a strange male trainer
is INTELLIGENT BEHAVIOR for a DOG LOVER?

"Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem
Quite Harsh And Cause You To Cringe. This Is A
Normal Reaction The First Few Times It Happens,
But You'll Get Over It."mike duforth, author:
"Courteous Canine."

You think HURTIN dogs and CRINGING
is COURTEOUS?

"I have heard advice stating that you should pre-load
your dog for Bitter Apple for it to work as efficiently
as possible. What does this mean?"

Means the author is a dog abuser of the worst magnitude.

"When you bring home the Bitter Apple for
the first time, spray one squirt directly into
the dog's mouth and walk away. The dog
won't be too thrilled with this but just ignore
him and continue your normal behavior."

You think HURTING your dog is NORMAL BEHAVIOR?

--Mike Dufort
author of the zero selling book
"Courteous Canines"

You think HOWER pal mikey is playin with a full deck?

Yeah. When I preload my dog's mouth with bitter apple,
suppose I don't get used to being stupid and cruel, mikey?

Then HOWE do I train my dog if I can't HURT it?

"I Dropped The Leash, Threw My Right Arm
Over The Lab's Shoulder, Grabbed Her Opposite
Foot With My Left Hand, Rolled Her On Her Side,
Leaned On Her, Smartly Growled Into Her Throat
And Said "GRRRR!" And Neatly Nipped Her Ear,"
sionnach.

Oh, THANKS, sinofabitch...

And from terri willis, Psychoclown wrote:
"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks"
things is something you twisted out of
context, because you are full of bizarro
manure."

"Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a
helper wield the stick, or do it yourself.
Tougher, less tractable dogs may require
you to progress to striking them more
sharply," lying frosty dahl, ethical breeder,
expert trainer, discoverer of cannibalism
in Labradors.

You think a EXXXPERT trainer got to BEAT
a HUNTIN dog to MAKE IT HUNT?

"Pudge Was So Soft That She Could And
Would Avoid A Simple Swat On The Rump
With A Riding Crop," lying frosty dahl,
discoverer of CANNIBALISM in Labradors.

Perhaps the mom dog didn't want her babies
HURT all their lives like HOWE HOWER dog
lovers PREFER to HURT THEIR DOGS?

"John ran out, grabbed Blackie by the collar, and
gave the dog two or three medium whacks on the
rump with a training stick while holding him partially
off the ground. John then told Blackie to sit, ran back
to the line and cast him back to the dummies."

The Puppy Wizard sez a mom dog eatin her babies
to SAVE THEM from a fate like that, is COMMENDABLE.

We're gonna teach folks THAT AIN'T NORMAL...

terri willis, Psychoclown wrote:
"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks"
things is something you twisted out of
context, because you are full of bizarro
manure."

Sez on our FAQ'S pages at K9 Web you should
knee the dog in the chest, step on its toes, throw
him down by his ears and climb all over it like
a raped ape growling into his throat and bite IT
on his ears, or leash pop it on a pronged spiked
pinch choke collar or pop him in the snout with
the heel of your palm.

"BethF" <dawg@alaska.com> wrote in message
news:ugc7us32ki5fb9@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Frank" <flmarcher@netscape.net> wrote in message
> news:d2f1624e.0206101912.2980eb03@posting.google.com...
> > dfrntdrums@aol.comMURK-OFF (Leah) wrote in message
news:<20020610173326.01953.00000597@mb-fx.aol.com>...
> > > >"brianev" brianev@attbi.com wrote:
> > > > I ENJOYED reading your book, and
> > > > AGREED with what you had to say.
> > > > I find it sick to hear what people
> > > > do with their dogs.
> > > Keep in mind that everything he says that
> > > the regular posters of this ng do to their
> > > dogs are lies.
> > > All of it. Every last bit.
> > All of it?
> > Ear pinching?
> > Shock collars?
> > Spiked chokers?
> > The regulars lie more in their denials than
> > Howe does in his accusing of them.
:
> Uh, Frank? Who do you see denying anything?
:
> Its quite interesting that a newbie like yourself
> would see denials when everyone has Jerry
> killfiled and therefore don't even read his posts,
> let alone respond to them.

"Rocky" <2dogs@rocky-dog.com> wrote in message
news:Xns92FEEC097E4AAaustralianshepherdca@130.133.1.4...

> Linda wrote in rec.pets.dogs.behavior:

> > When you compare using sound and
> > praise to solve a problem with using
> > shock collars, hanging, and punishment
> > how can you criticize the use of sound?

> There's nothing more to be said, then.
> You've made up your mind.

> But you've impressed me by mentioning
> that you're a professor with 30 years of
> experience.

> So, can you cite some examples of
> people recommending "shock collars,
> hanging, and punishment"?

BWWWAWHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!

> --
> --Matt. Rocky's a Dog.

You think matty's playin with a full
goddamned deck?

matty's NOT a liar and dog abuser.
He's a MENTAL CASE.

Isn't that true, Marilyn?

Of course not, but THIS IS:

"Chin CHUCK absolutely doesn't mean slap,"
professora gingold.

"Marshall Dermer" <dermer@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu> wrote in message
news:a3h5qn$mra$1@uwm.edu...

> >Di,

> I don't believe you mentioned a particular
> kind of training. If you are interested in
> training retrieval behavior than do
> consider our own Amy Dahl's:

> The 10-Minute Retriever : How to Make a
> Well-Mannered, Obedient and
> Enthusiastic Gun Dog in 10 Minutes a
> Day by John I. Dahl, Amy Dahl

You failed to mention your pals the dahls are
proven liars and dog abusers, professor "SCRUFF
SHAKE:"

"I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A
Dog I Do Not Believe There Is A Single
Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A
Dog Is Anything But Destructive,"

LUCKY thing CHIN CHUCK absolutely don't
mean slap the goddamned dog, we'd look like
a conspiracy of LIARS and DOG abusers if
CHIN CHUCK DID mean SLAP the dog.

"I don't see why anyone would want to choke or
beat a dog, or how any trainer could possibly get
a good working dog by making them unhapper,
fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying frosty dahl.

DOES THAT SOUND LIKE THE TRUTH?

> just $17.95 at Amazon.com.

> (Also, it is best to killfile posts from the
> few regulars here who are either ill-
> tempered, ill-mannered, or just plain ill.)
> --Marshall

Or HOWE about HOWER just plain CRUEL
STUPID and ABUSIVE DOG ABUSERS,
professor SCRUFF SHAKE?

amy lying frosty dahl continues:

"On the other extreme, the really hard dogs
we have trained require much more
frequent and heavy application of pressure
(PAIN j.h.) to get the job done,

This is continued resistance to your
increasing authority, and the job is
not done until it is overcome

Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a helper
wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher,
less tractable dogs may require you to
progress to striking them more sharply"

BUT NOBODY DOES THAT HERE...

"Try pinching the ear between the metal
casing and the collar, even the buckle on
the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will
give in but will squeal, thrash around, and
direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch"

OR ATTACKING HIS ABUSER.

"You can press the dog's ear with a
shotshell instead of your thumb even
get a studded collar and pinch the ear
against that Make the dog's need to stop
the pinching so urgent that resisting your
will fades in importance.

CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever
Ready Right Hand, As it catches on, try
using the stick and no ear pinch.

When the dog is digging out to beat the
stick and seems totally reliable without
any ear pinch, you are finished

This is continued resistance to your
increasing authority, and the job is
not done until it is overcome"

If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly
under the chin, say "No! Hold!"

(stay on the ear until it does) (perhaps
because the ear is getting tender, or the
dog has decided it isn't worth it)" lying
frosty dahl.

"Chin cuff absolutely does not mean slap,"
professora gingold.

From: Marshall Dermer (dermer@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu)
In article <38CC0C43.94E2DDD1@earthlink.net>
r*z@earthlink.net writes:

>> -snip headers etc.

>> Yes. you're right, I really should find
>> the book.. they don't have these books
>> in the local pet stores I frequent, where
>> do you find Koehler?

> I got a nice large print copy from
> Amazon.com

>Richard

Please try Powell's Books in Portland
Oregon. Their URL is:

http://www.powells.com/

Unlike Amazon.com, Powell's keeps both
new and used books on its shelves. You
can order books via e-email.

Koehler Method Of Dog
Training
by Koehler, W R
Published by HOWELL BOOK
HOUSE (0876056575,

========================================================

Here's some quotes and some methods right
outta your koehler book professor "SCRUFF
SHAKE and scream "NO!" into its face for 5
seconds:"

"The Koehler Method of Dog Training (1962). New York:
Howell Book Book House(p. 52-53)."

Hanging

"First, the trainer makes certain that the collar
and leash are more than adequate for any jerk
or strain that the dog's most frantic actions could
cause. Then he starts to work the dog deliberately
and fairly to the point where the dog makes his grab.

Before the teeth have reached their target,
the dog, weight permitting, is jerked from
the ground.

As in coping with some of the afore-mentioned
problems the dog is suspended in mid-air.

However, to let the biting dog recover
his footing while he still had the strength
to renew the attack would be cruelty.

The only justifiable course is to hold him
suspended until he has neither the strength
nor inclination to renew the fight.

When finally it is obvious that he is
physically incapable of expressing his
resentment and is lowered to the ground,
he will probably stagger loop-legged for a
few steps, vomit once or twice, and roll
over on his side.

The sight of a dog lying, thick-tongued,
on his side, is not pleasant, but do not
let it alarm you

THE REAL "HOOD"

"If your dog is a real "hood" who would
regard the foregoing types of protest as
"kid stuff" and would express his
resentment of your efforts by biting,
your problem is difficult -- and pressing.

"Professional trainers often get these
extreme problems. Nearly always the
"protest biter" is the handiwork of a
person who, by avoiding situations that
the dog might resent, has nurtured the
seeds of rebellion and then cultivated
the resultant growth with under correction.

When these people reap their inevitable
and oftentimes painful harvest, they are
ready to avail themselves of "the cruel
trainer" whose advice they may have
once rejected because it was incompatible
with the sugary droolings of mealy-
mouthed columnists, breed-ring biddies,
and dog psychologists who, by the
broken skins and broken hearts their
misinformation causes, can be proven guilty
of the greatest act of cruelty to animals
since the dawn of time.

"With more genuine compassion for the
biting dog than would ever be demonstrated
by those who are "too kind" to make a
correction and certainly with more disregard
for his safety, the professional trainer
morally feels obligated to perform a "major
operation."

"Since we are presently concerned with
the dog that bites in resentment of the
demands of training, we will set our
example in that situation. (In a later
chapter we will deal with the with the
much easier problem of the dog that
bites someone other than his master."

Are we havin FUN yet?

Well h1r3z, I guess that ENDS HOWER
intellectual DISS-CUSSIONS, eh ???

BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHHAHAAAa!!!

The Amazing Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) >



The Puppy Wizard
2004-05-12 04:30:16 EST
BVWEEEEAAAHAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!

"Natalie Rigertas" <rigertas@gauss.math.luc.edu> wrote in message
news:eJkoc.101$iv.67@fe07.usenetserver.com...
> In rec.pets.dogs.behavior kilikini <kilikini1@nospamhotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> > PLEASE ADVISE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm so scared, people.
I've never hit
> > this dog and I've tried to only raise him in a loving
environment. Please,
> > please, help me.
>
> > kili
>
>
> I'd suggest going to the vet and getting a recommendation for a
> behaviorist. It sounds like his behavior has gotten too far out
of hand
> for you to deal with on your own. Generally, when a dog bites
someone, it
> needs immediate and qualified help with training. Especially
since you
> are so new to having a dog, it doesn't seem like a situation
that you can
> deal with yourself. And find someone who can drive you, even if
you have
> to pay them. Having a dog that finds it necessary to bite is a
liability
> for you and for the dog.
>
> natalie
>
>
>
> --
>
> The turtle lives twixt plated decks
> Which practically conceal its sex.
> I think it clever of the turtle
> In such a fix to be so fertile.
> ---Ogden Nash
>



Kilikini
2004-05-12 08:31:49 EST
Natalie Rigertas" <rigertas@gauss.math.luc.edu> wrote in message
news:eJkoc.101$iv.67@fe07.usenetserver.com...
> In rec.pets.dogs.behavior kilikini <kilikini1@nospamhotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > PLEASE ADVISE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm so scared, people. I've never
hit
> > this dog and I've tried to only raise him in a loving environment.
Please,
> > please, help me.
>
> > kili
>
>
> I'd suggest going to the vet and getting a recommendation for a
> behaviorist. It sounds like his behavior has gotten too far out of hand
> for you to deal with on your own. Generally, when a dog bites someone, it
> needs immediate and qualified help with training. Especially since you
> are so new to having a dog, it doesn't seem like a situation that you can
> deal with yourself. And find someone who can drive you, even if you have
> to pay them. Having a dog that finds it necessary to bite is a liability
> for you and for the dog.
>
> natalie

I've actually had dogs my entire life, but this one takes the cake. He's
more than a handful.

kili




The Puppy Wizard
2004-05-12 08:58:55 EST
BWEEEEAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!

"kilikini" <kilikini1@NOSPAMhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:VOooc.21117$EH6.9315@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Natalie Rigertas" <rigertas@gauss.math.luc.edu> wrote in message
> news:eJkoc.101$iv.67@fe07.usenetserver.com...
> > In rec.pets.dogs.behavior kilikini
<*1@nospamhotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > PLEASE ADVISE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm so scared, people.
I've never
> hit
> > > this dog and I've tried to only raise him in a loving
environment.
> Please,
> > > please, help me.
> >
> > > kili
> >
> >
> > I'd suggest going to the vet and getting a recommendation for
a
> > behaviorist. It sounds like his behavior has gotten too far
out of hand
> > for you to deal with on your own. Generally, when a dog bites
someone, it
> > needs immediate and qualified help with training. Especially
since you
> > are so new to having a dog, it doesn't seem like a situation
that you can
> > deal with yourself. And find someone who can drive you, even
if you have
> > to pay them. Having a dog that finds it necessary to bite is
a liability
> > for you and for the dog.
> >
> > natalie
>
> I've actually had dogs my entire life, but this one takes the
cake. He's
> more than a handful.
>
> kili
>
>
>



The Puppy Wizard
2004-05-12 09:09:42 EST

HOWEDY spot,

You're so right. "Sooner or later the lights
go on" and you see you got the same same
same same problem and worse, and you
can't do NUTHIN abHOWET it cause you
don't know HOWE or you would't FAIL at
every thing you've got to deal with and can't
cause you don't know HOWE.

Dog trainin AIN'T LUCK. "Luck is for SUCKERS,"
The Puppy Wizard's DADDY.

The Amazing Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) >

P.S. Before The Amazing Puppy Wizard
FORGETS, BWEEEEAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!


"Spot" <NoSpamMe@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:f9eoc.30773$L8.28117@nwrdny02.gnilink.net...
> As the years have went by we've come to a compromise on some
things and he's
> mellowed a TINY bit.
>
> I've never had problems with him destroying things in the house
from what I
> can tell I seem to be the lucky one. Most people tend to have
problems with
> this & labs. He will stay in the yard now but I have to watch
him because
> first chance he gets he sneaks out. When I lived on the
mountain he wore a
> cowbell outside when he was loose so I could hear where he was
at. In the
> house he is a velco doggie, no matter where I'm at he has to be
there. I
> can get up and cross the room to another chair and he will get
up and move
> closer.
>
> I have worked on the sit n stay for years and his attention span
is about 60
> seconds then he's off looking for me. The biggest problem over
the years
> has been his antisocial behavior with other dogs. He was
attacked by
> another dog as a pup and when he reached the age of about 2 he
did a 360 on
> the attitude and other dogs. He now thinks he has to attack
them before
> they get to attack him. Now no matter how big the other dog is
he thinks he
> can take it. I can honestly say there are only 3 dogs that he's
ever gotten
> along with and that I'd trust him not to attack. One is my dog
Brandy and
> the other are my sisters chihuahua's. I can't figure this one
out since the
> one a mouthy little shit and barks all the time but Barney puts
with him.
>
> The newest problem is he thinks he has to go everywhere with me.
Since I
> got a new car that is low enough he can get in an out of easily
he has a
> lead foot. There are mornings when I'm getting ready to go for
work that I
> have an awful time getting him to go inside. He thinks he
should go to work
> with me....LOL
>
> All I can say is good luck and keep working at it. Sooner or
later a light
> seems to go on and they finally get it.
>
> Celeste
>
>
>
> "kilikini" <kilikini1@NOSPAMhotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:pm2oc.18055$EH6.2680@twister.socal.rr.com...
> >
> >
> > "Spot" <NoSpamMe@verizon.net> wrote in message
> > news:J7Unc.25809$vz5.22961@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...
> > > LOL,.......Sorry I don't have any answers for you on this.
I'm laughing
> > > because he sounds so much like my Barney I'd swear you were
describing
> my
> > > dog. ADD in dogs......I call it just plain old bull
headedness, and a
> > alpha
> > > who "thinks" he's the king. Barney is 11 now and just as
full of
> himself
> > > now as when he was a pup.
> > >
> > > Celeste
> > >
> >
> > Have you managed to control Barney at all or do you just put
up with it?
> >
> > kili
> >
> >
> >
>
>



Graciela Bracamonte
2004-05-14 11:07:06 EST
"kilikini" <kilikini1@NOSPAMhotmail.com> wrote in message news:<NBhoc.21076$EH6.13779@twister.socal.rr.com>...
> Well, new situation arose today. One of my best friends (whom Kai
> absolutely ADORES) and her mom came over today. Kai started barking at my
> friend's mom repeatedly which is unusual. He usually loves people. Anway,
> she was showing me this old, old, rare book and as we talked about the book
> and got more excited about it, our voices got raised. To emphasize a point,
> this woman slapped my arm and Kai went NUTS. He lunged for her, mouth open,
> but didn't bite down; just left a gooey mouth mark on her arm.
>
> I scolded him and banished him outside.
>
> That is the FIRST time I've ever seen mean behavior out of that dog. He
> didn't bite her.....he didn't clamp down, but he lunged, opened his mouth,
> and put her arm in his mouth. What the heck is up with that??????????
>
> I'm more than a little concerned. MORE THAN! This is getting scary. I
> mean, he's my CHILD!
>
> Granted, this woman has a huge negative cloud around her head and I loathe
> her. She can't say one nice thing about anyone and whines like an unoiled
> gasket. Can he pick up on the fact that I don't like her? Seems weird
> because he started barking at her before she got out of the car and she's
> never been here before. She's only visiting from the mainland.
>
> I understand that Kai's being protective, but again, he's 11 months old. Is
> this normal behavior? Should I be concerned?
>
> PLEASE ADVISE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm so scared, people. I've never hit
> this dog and I've tried to only raise him in a loving environment. Please,
> please, help me.
>
> kili

I am not really a dog expert, but there's something that has worked
for us (Nato my 8 year old Pekingese and me). Most of the time he is
obedient except when strangers come home. Nato has a little hamburger
toy that he likes to run after and fetch. So I get this toy to the
visitors and ask them please to throw it, consequently Nato will run
after it. As usual, he will bring it to the person who throws it, for
them to do it again and in that manner they sort of become acquainted.
Hoped to be of help.

Graciela
Philadelphia, PA

Kilikini
2004-05-14 14:27:18 EST
(snip)


> I am not really a dog expert, but there's something that has worked
> for us (Nato my 8 year old Pekingese and me). Most of the time he is
> obedient except when strangers come home. Nato has a little hamburger
> toy that he likes to run after and fetch. So I get this toy to the
> visitors and ask them please to throw it, consequently Nato will run
> after it. As usual, he will bring it to the person who throws it, for
> them to do it again and in that manner they sort of become acquainted.
> Hoped to be of help.
>
> Graciela
> Philadelphia, PA

Great idea! Kai has one of those too and he just loves it. Then again, not
everyone loves to play with dogs. I think your suggestion is a great one,
tho, and I *will* try it. Thanks!

kili



Pat
2004-05-27 18:58:54 EST

"Suja" <spanaval@scs.gmu.edu> wrote in message
news:yiSnc.11220$Lm3.2757@lakeread04...
>
> kilikini wrote:
>
> > Is it possible for a dog to have ADD (Attention Deficit Disorder)?
>
> I suppose. However, inability to concentrate in dogs is generally a
> sign of youth.
>
> > very dominant. When I try to teach him, let's say "stay", for instance,
I
> > tell him to sit (which he does very well), I put my hand up with my palm
> > towards him and say stay, while holding his favorite ball in my other
hand,
> > backing up the entire time.
>

I am a bit confused..and I guess the dog is as well.:-(
Why you would make your dog want to stay with the correct command.
While you put a favourite ball in your hand.
You are asking your dog to stay ....yet also saying I have your favourite
ball lets play.
A stay command and a favourite ball do NOT go together.
Have you tried going to obedience training.
You will learn how to train your dog properly.
I think given you do join .
It will be the best thing you will do for you and your dog.
I know it was for me.
Plus you can always see other peoples faults yet not your own.
Your dog has not got a problem...just a puppy getting the wrong body
language .
Good luck.
Have fun with your pup.
Pat.



The Puppy Wizard
2004-05-27 19:57:58 EST
BWEEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!

"Pat" <bonniepml@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:c95rre$s5u$1@titan.btinternet.com...
>
> "Suja" <spanaval@scs.gmu.edu> wrote in message
> news:yiSnc.11220$Lm3.2757@lakeread04...
> >
> > kilikini wrote:
> >
> > > Is it possible for a dog to have ADD (Attention Deficit
Disorder)?
> >
> > I suppose. However, inability to concentrate in dogs is
generally a
> > sign of youth.
> >
> > > very dominant. When I try to teach him, let's say "stay",
for instance,
> I
> > > tell him to sit (which he does very well), I put my hand up
with my palm
> > > towards him and say stay, while holding his favorite ball in
my other
> hand,
> > > backing up the entire time.
> >
>
> I am a bit confused..and I guess the dog is as well.:-(
> Why you would make your dog want to stay with the correct
command.
> While you put a favourite ball in your hand.
> You are asking your dog to stay ....yet also saying I have your
favourite
> ball lets play.
> A stay command and a favourite ball do NOT go together.
> Have you tried going to obedience training.
> You will learn how to train your dog properly.
> I think given you do join .
> It will be the best thing you will do for you and your dog.
> I know it was for me.
> Plus you can always see other peoples faults yet not your own.
> Your dog has not got a problem...just a puppy getting the wrong
body
> language .
> Good luck.
> Have fun with your pup.
> Pat.
>
>


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