Dog Discussion: Dog TV Shows

Dog TV Shows
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Chris Carney
2004-10-06 22:44:44 EST
Hi,

Anyone know of any shows that cover training/behavioral issues that
are on cable these days other than "The Dog Whisperer" which is on
National Geographic channel? I've been googling for hours and the
best I could come up with was a show called "Woof!" that used to be on
PBS, also I remember that there used to be another one years ago
"Training Dogs the Woodhouse Way", but from what I've been able to
find out about both, they both have some similarities on the negative
(bad, or not so great training concepts). Also wondering if anyone
knows of any books that employ the same techniques as the guy on "The
Dog Whisperer", seems to be the best I've come across, I know there
are two books, and DVD that have the same name as that show, but I
don't think they're connected, anyone know if they're using the same
methods?

Also, anyone have any ideas on finding video tapes, DVD's or
downloadable copies of the Nat'l Geo show? I missed a bunch of
episodes, not sure if they repeat them all or not.

Thanks

Chris

Bea
2004-10-07 05:13:18 EST

"Chris Carney" <ccarney@truetechsupport.com> wrote in message
news:59eb53ef.0410061844.3edff30d@posting.google.com...
> Hi,
>
> Anyone know of any shows that cover training/behavioral issues that
> are on cable these days other than "The Dog Whisperer" which is on
> National Geographic channel? I've been googling for hours and the
> best I could come up with was a show called "Woof!" that used to be on
> PBS, also I remember that there used to be another one years ago
> "Training Dogs the Woodhouse Way", but from what I've been able to
> find out about both, they both have some similarities on the negative
> (bad, or not so great training concepts). Also wondering if anyone
> knows of any books that employ the same techniques as the guy on "The
> Dog Whisperer", seems to be the best I've come across, I know there
> are two books, and DVD that have the same name as that show, but I
> don't think they're connected, anyone know if they're using the same
> methods?
>
> Also, anyone have any ideas on finding video tapes, DVD's or
> downloadable copies of the Nat'l Geo show? I missed a bunch of
> episodes, not sure if they repeat them all or not.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris


Have you tried searching for a DVD or video on ebay or amazon? The only
thing with those two websites is that you do need to know the name of the
show and won't do a random search. Give it a go anyway, and Good Luck in
finding one!!



The Puppy Wizard
2004-10-07 23:32:30 EST
HOWEDY Chris,

"Chris Carney" <ccarney@truetechsupport.com> wrote in message
news:59eb53ef.0410061844.3edff30d@posting.google.com...
> Hi,
>
> Anyone know of any shows that cover
> training/behavioral issues that are on
> cable these days other than "The Dog
> Whisperer" which is on National Geographic
> channel?

That's pretty brutal stuff. The guy's a MENACE.

> I've been googling for hours and the
> best I could come up with was a show
> called "Woof!" that used to be on PBS,

That's uncle matty. He's a menace too. But
he's also a liar and dog abuser and coward.

> also I remember that there used to be another
> one years ago "Training Dogs the Woodhouse
> Way",

Same same. A BRUTE.

> but from what I've been able to find out about
> both, they both have some similarities on the
> negative (bad, or not so great training concepts).

They're all dog abusers. The "dog whisperer" is
the best of them all, but he's still an incompetent
bloward dog abusing punk thug. A NICE WON,
but nonetheless, a punk thug dog abusing coward.

The Amazing Puppy Wizard would LOVE to have
him choke HIS dogs for a couple minutes like he
does them LITTLE dogs on T.V.

> Also wondering if anyone knows of any
> books that employ the same techniques
> as the guy on "The Dog Whisperer",

You're lookin for the koehler method.

> seems to be the best I've come across,

He HURTS and INTIMIDATES dogs.

> I know there are two books, and DVD tha
> t have the same name as that show, but I
> don't think they're connected, anyone know
> if they're using the same methods?

They're a bunch of dog abusing FRAUDS.

> Also, anyone have any ideas on finding video
> tapes, DVD's or downloadable copies of the
> Nat'l Geo show? I missed a bunch of
> episodes, not sure if they repeat them all or not.

You didn't miss nuthin. All he knows is choke
and intimidate the dog.

> Thanks

Your welcome.

> Chris

Here's EVERY THING you gotta know abHOWET
handling and training your dogs or children:

The Amazing Puppy Wizard don't give SUGGESTIONS.
There are certain LAWS of behavior you gotta follow
PRECISELY or you'll have the same same same same
PROBLEMS these MENTAL CASES here abHOWETS got.
ONLY DOG ABUSERS LIARS COWARDS and ACTIVE LONG
TERM INCURABLE MENTAL CASES POST HERE abHOWETS:

"The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of Behavior
Never Change,
Or They'd Not Be Scientific And Could Not Obtain
Consistent, Reliable, Fast, Effective Results
For All Handler's And All Dogs,
NEARLY INSTANTLY,
As Taught In Your FREE Copy Of The Puppy Wizard's
FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual,"
The Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) >

ALL BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS ARE
CAUSED BY MISHANDLING.

A Dog Is A Dog As A Kat Is A Kat As A
Birdie Is A Birdie As A Child Is A Child As A
SP-HOWES Is a SP-HOWES.

ALL Critters Only Respond In PREDICTABLE INNATE
NORMAL NATURAL INSTINCTIVE REFLEXIVE Ways
To Situations And Circumstances Of Their Environment
Which We Create For Them.

Damn The Descartean War of "Nature Vs Nurture."
We Teach By HOWER Words And Actions
And GET BACK What We TAUGHT.

In The Problem Animal Behavior BUSINESS
FAILURE MEANS DEATH.
SAME SAME,
For The Problem Child Behavior BUSINESS.

Ask me for help if you have any difficulty.

The Wits' End Dog Training Method
Jerry Howe
Copyright 8/24/2002
Phone: 1-888-WITSEND
Phone: 1-407-425-5092
T*d@EarthLink.net
MSN Messenger: doggydoright@hotmail.com
http://www.doggydoright.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 3
HOW IS WITS' END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4
PART I
1. METHODOLOGY 6
1A. Common Misunderstandings 7
1B. Learn Today! 9
2. GETTING STARTED 12
2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12
2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14
2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in
Minutes 15
3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19
4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20
5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22
6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23
7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 (Also see conclusion)
7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26
7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27
7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28
7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29
7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33
7F. Housebreaking Technique
8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34
The Alpha Rollover 34
9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36
9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37

10. THE WITS' END DOG TRAINING METHOD GLOSSARY 38
10A. State Conditioned Learning
10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct
10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind
10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimeter Training

PART II
1. OBEDIENCE 46
2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47
2A. Back to Work 48
2B. Stay 49
2C. Sit From the Side 49
2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50
2E. Sit From the Front 51
3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52
3A. Down From the Side 56
3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57
3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58
3D. Down From the Front 59
4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60
5. STAND 62

Introduction

The Wits' End Dog Training Method is the fastest,
gentlest, most effective, comprehensive behavior
modification/obedience and protection training
technique available anywhere...

And now, it's FREE!!! It's copyright 2002 information,
so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use,
copy, and distribute it in it its entirety or none at all.

Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement
approach is unique, systematic, and unconventional,
which means no dog is too young, too old, too large,
too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train.

Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled us to
research new methods to instruct humans as well as
canines. All dog behavior problems are caused by our
ineffective and inappropriate efforts to control their
predictable, innate, normal, natural, instinctive, reflexive
responses to circumstances of their environment we
create for them.

Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but
you do need a dog you can live with, starting today,
not after lengthy training, not after your dog matures,
not when it's too late!

This requires a basic understanding of how your
dog thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack
Leadership" exercise, coupled with teaching the
"recall" or "come" command, are all that one needs
to effectively control the companion dog.

The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes
nor accidents. They are instinctive challenges to
your leadership and authority.

Wits' End Dog Training anticipates these impending
mistakes inherent to each phase of training, and
relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on
your pet to convince him you are his appropriate
leader, and make him want to do anything you ask.

Wits' End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof,
and works with every time, with every canine, even
wolves!

The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems
are learned qualities. Our enlightened methods
challenge the learning centers in your dog's brain.

These centers develop and continue to grow
exponentially. Wits' End Dog Training capitalizes
on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy,
and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition,
bribery, constant corrections, and scolding.

This manual will provide all the tools you will need
to learn to properly handle and train your dog. We
will address the most difficult behaviors with safe
effective tools, real answers, and common sense
advice.

Successful completion of our program means you
will never need another dog-training lesson again!

We train you to use the most effective, positive,
intelligent formulas, based on scientific,
psychological, and behavioral principles, and
accelerated learning techniques.

We will teach you how dogs learn, and how to
apply our forty years of knowledge and experience
to convince your dog to do anything you ask, the
first time, every time!

How is Wits' End Dog Training Different?

Wits' End Dog Training methodology is not
concerned with "training," but rather teaching the
development of the thought process, molding and
safeguarding the proper development of personality,
stable temperament, and good character.

The first thing you may notice is the lack of confusing
psychobabble. Sure, it's almost impossible to avoid
any use of psychobabble, but there's no need to
complicate learning new information with unnecessary
technical jargon.

In an effort to eschew obfuscation, and, for your
enjoyment, we have provided a list of several
psychological components of behavior. It is helpful
to realize that such terms exist, if for nothing else
but to reassure yourself that there is a basis for
some things we'll be discussing.

You'll find the terminology "eschew obfuscation"
listed near the end of part one of this manual, to
help make things more understandable, and lots
of other tips and examples.

Wits' End Dog Training is accustomed to criticism
from a variety of pet professionals. Holding different
values is not a crime, although sometimes it might
be considered a sin.

Consider how you would feel if you'd spent years
studying at our best universities, only to be shown
by a simple, uneducated dog trainer, that your
education is obsolete, that you've missed the point?

You'd respond, "What degrees do you hold?"

Forty years ago this trainer chose no longer to train
dogs according to the techniques available. It simply
wasn't worth doing. One experience of souring the
spirit of a beautiful, troubled dog, while following the
best advice available from the most accredited
sources anywhere, was enough for him.

Today, the state of the art in dog training industry
remains about the same. Modern dog training has
undergone little change since its inception in this
country as a sport at the end of World War II,
except to have gotten WORSE with the advent of
the pronged spiked pinch choke and shock and
aversive spray devices.

The methodology was and still is based on the
military model utilized on the Nazis' command dogs.
Fortunately, this trainer's family, being in the kennel
business, provided many more troubled dogs that
didn't have the alternative to decline training.

Necessity, being the mother of invention, prevailed.

There had to be a better way. I was at my Wits'
End, still am, and now you can be too! We will
never recommend seeking outside assistance or
books, abuse or use of unnatural, artificial, or
abusive training aids like electric shock collars,
choke collars, spiked collars, scolding, staring,
glaring, shaking, reprimanding, finger pointing,
gourmet food recipes used for bribery, threats,
intimidation, physical force, sharp commands,
punishing sounds, punishment of any kind, or
deviation from the Wits' End Dog Training Method.

It only takes one lapse of judgment to subvert the
deep trust established through our work. Food
bribes, or treats associated with training, although
generally endorsed by traditional trainers, is strictly
against everything we are trying to impart through
our unconventional approach.

Getting results at the expense of the higher attributes
of learning is, we think, ignorant and dangerous.
Any time your dog is more concerned with his gut
than your desires, you could be the next course
on the menu. We're training companion animals,
not pigs.

For obvious reasons, there are very few training
aids we can endorse. The head halter is good if
used properly. The product called Gentle Leader
is NOT gentle, nor does it lead.The instructions
for fitting the device INTENDS to force control
and HURT when "necessary."

There are many more reasons that we cannot
endorse any books or publications regarding
training tips. We recommend not reading other
training guides until you fully comprehend this
method.

Dogs, being pack animals, not unlike the human
family, have rules dictated by nature. We will
capitalize on their natural instincts, and, knowing
the nature of the beast, be prepared to anticipate
all of your dog's options to cooperate or subvert
your efforts to control him.

Your dog's job is to oppose you. Your job is to
negotiate then compromise; ask for more, then
give up; move to one of the appropriate defaults,
and then return to your original desired request.

Canine logic and strategy dictate our methodology.

Everything has a rational outcome that is arrived
at through the process of elimination of undesired
possibilities through a default system. Using this
approach we eliminate stress, confrontation, and
otherwise negative influences in the training session.

All we need to do is to establish a smooth flow of
information and allow thoughts to flow fluidly,
maintaining an open dialogue without becoming
focused on the desired command, or getting stuck
in a confrontation.

You are going to teach your dog an entire concept,
not just a simple, trite command. We are going to
obtain strict discipline without giving the sense of
being strict or disciplinarian. The Wits' End Dog
Training Method breaks ordinary dog training rules,
not a dog's spirit.

PART I
1. METHODOLOGY

2. There are a few prerequisites to obtain results
that will last a lifetime: Nothing will be accomplished
without first building the foundation. Addressing
behavioral problems without establishing these
fundamentals will waste time and further entrench
misbehavior.

Causes of failure may be:

Over training, or practicing training sessions longer
than directed. Our weekly (later monthly) training
session is no longer than 15 minutes. Daily training
(may be every other day) sessions take only four
minutes.

Training your dog in his backyard (don't make him
work in his "free area").

Not taking the time to be certain of your next move.
Not taking time to plan your best move.
"Telegraphing" your next move.
Misreading your dog's intent.
Interrupting your dog's thought process.
Physical contact of any kind while he's thinking.

Failure to praise every eye contact your dog makes
with you (every time your dog glances over toward
you requires spontaneous non-physical praise).

Generally not understanding the psychology
involved with teaching your dog to think, learn,
rationalize, and solve problems.

Being goal-oriented is a major error. We have a
methodology based on defaults. We expect you
will find some refreshing and incredible differences
in our system, quite opposed to what have been
formerly held as traditional truths.

Don't make learning this information any more
difficult than need be. Just relax, and don't try to
commit this text to memory. You'll probably learn
what's important on your first review of this material.

There are some confusing thoughts that will become
clear as you proceed. Then you may go back to
the specific techniques to practice, so don't try to
get it all at once.

Don't expect your pet professionals to understand
or accept our philosophy, we've tried. We don't
accept theirs. Just understand they are only doing
what they were taught.

Follow our system, not their logic. Once your dog
recognizes your goals, you lose. Lose? YES.
Everything is different at Wits' End.

Surely you'd think we'd want our dogs to recognize
our goals, but does Macey's tell Gimbel's?! We
want our dogs to work for us.

To work this system, one must expect things to
happen, allow for errors, and regard any effort,
even an attempt to leave, as positive effort. You
will soon learn that any effort or energy, even
negative, can be converted to positive.

Be consistent, and never try to make things happen.

Dogs don't like to be made to do things for no good
reason. Dogs are much smarter than most trainers
and behaviorists believe. The ability to think,
rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities.

Most of your dog's mistakes are an integral part of
learning, and are welcomed here, as an opportunity
to teach and provide a positive learning experience.

1A. Common Misunderstandings

It seems everybody tells their dog "don't do this or
that." What he hears is only "do this or that." Dogs
don't understand the concept of "don't do something."

You'd communicate more clearly with your dog by
simply distracting him with a very brief, random
sound and telling him he's a good boy.

It's going to take you a while before you feel
comfortable telling your dog he's doing good,
when you've just caught him doing something
wrong.

There is a system here.

The problem is that most people think like people.
Most dogs think like dogs. It's all explained in the
chapter entitled "Learn Today."

That you can't correct a mistake after it has
happened is another fallacy that will be dispelled
in the chapter entitled "Using Sound To Break Bad
Behavior."

One of the most common behavioral problems we
hear is when your dog barks incessantly at people
approaching your home. Most people find themselves
fighting a losing battle, trying to stop their dog from
barking aggressively at the door, fence, window, etc...

Here's the scenario. Dog says: "Warning, warning,
there's someone out there!"

You say: "Stop That Noise!"

Dog says: "But there is someone out there!"

You say: "Get Off The Door, You're Scratching It."

Dog Says: "They're Coming In! You're Not Listening
To Me."

You Say: "You're Not Listening To Me! You're
Scratching The Door! They're trying to come In!"

Dog Says: "I'll Save You! Just Let Me Through This Door!"

You say: "Now I'm really mad! You're scratching
the door! I Can't Have Them In With You Acting Like This!"

Dog Says: "Me Too! I'm Really Mad! Just Let Me Through
This Door! I Can't Have Them In If They Are So Upsetting To You!"

The situation continues to worsen; as the dog does
what he knows is best for his home and you. The
dialogue just continues to become more confusing.

The more concerned you become about his behavior,
the more he believes you are worried about these
unknown persons. Your upset will make him protective.
He doesn't realize that it's his behavior you are
worried about.

Here's HOWE the scenario should be:

Dog says: "Warning, warning, warning, there's someone out there!"

You say: "GOOD BOY! Who's there?"

Dog says: "I don't know, but you'd better be careful!"

You say: "Good boy, I can see them, it's friends."

Dog Says: "I Don't Think So, You'd Better Be Careful!"

You say: "I can see who it is, they are friends, you're a good
boy."

Dog says: "Cool! Maybe we'll have tea and biscuits!"

Most dogs are simply not validated for their efforts
at doing their job, and so many problems are a
result of just such misunderstandings.

We have ways of dealing with all kinds of behavior,
those we can observe, as well as those that (in most
cases,) occur when we are not present. Most trainers
agree that you cannot correct your dog after the fact.

Their logic is that dogs can't remember mistakes they
committed earlier, perhaps only earlier today.

If this is the case, then how do you think dogs can
remember a "lost" toy, hidden under a piece of furniture
many weeks after it had gotten misplaced? Do you
really want to believe he cannot remember doing
something mischievous earlier today?

Here are two more misunderstandings about dogs:

"He would never bite." Although most dogs never do
bite, you can never be sure that any dog, no matter
how well you know him, will never bite.

"Wagging tails are an indicator of mood or temper."
Wrong again! You can determine some information
by observing a dog's tail movement, but don't count
on it to tell you about his intent.

Some things you'll be able to determine are how
comfortable he is with the command or situation
he's in. If the tail is kept tightly underneath, this
means he's very uncomfortable, nervous, or scared.

If the tail curves around the flanks when he's sitting
or lying, this shows he's somewhat comfortable.
If it is straight out behind him, this indicates he is
very comfortable and eager to be working with what
we're asking of him. If he is sitting on it, with a slight
curl at the base, this indicates he's in the process of
learning something.

1B. Learn Today!

Today, you will learn to use and become proficient
with the "recall" or "come" command, through the
installation of a conditioned reflex. Conditioned
reflex can be used to teach any command, but for
our purposes at this time, it will only be used for
"recall," or "come," as it is not useful in the
development of higher learning and thought processes.

How Dogs Learn

Dogs can learn and UN-learn any behavior in four
properly conducted repetitions. Taken to its extreme,
these four repetitions should be performed in four
different places with four different but similar situations.

EXAMPLE:

The first time your dog hears a new command,
he probably has no idea what is being requested.
When he hears the command a second time, he
begins to compr ehend.Thethirdtime,hefully
understands, but dogs being dogs, he is going to
resist the new command.

This hesitation is called a learning plateau.

Learning plateaus require a few moments to sort
and file information, not unlike your computer. I
get easily frustrated with these computers, because
unlike humans and animals, I expect a command to
my computer to be followed immediately. But even
at the speed of light, commands need to be sorted
out to go to memory.

Just like your computer asks, "do you really want
to delete this file?" your dog does the same. This
usually happens on the third request, or instance,
of trying to teach or break a behavior.

So, when your dog thinks about the new behavior
being learned or unlearned, praise (non-physical
praise) and patience, are required during the few
moments it takes to correctly file this new information.

However, once again, although your dog may
fully understand what you are trying to accomplish
now that you've demonstrated this behavior three
times, means he's going to try to go against your
desire! His job is to oppose you.

He needs to think things out during the third request.
This moment requires praise, regardless of what
the dog is thinking.

He's going to ponder the idea, then glance at you.
Back to the idea, now thinking of you. Then think
about the idea, and then think about you. Follow
his thinking, and re-enforce it with praise.

Non-physical praise only.

You cannot second-guess what he might be
thinking at this time. Presume nothing. Allow his
choice to dictate your next move. Chances are,
he's going to continue one last try at having his
own way.

There are only two choices he can make. He's
either going to do it correctly, for which you'll
continue praise, and wait for the forthcoming
opportunity to test him out, or, he's going to
do it wrong, for which you'll continue to praise
until you are sure he got it wrong, for which
you'll perform the correct move to re-enforce
the desired behavior, while continuing to praise,
non physical, of course.

Using this system, you cannot go wrong. Simply
praise whatever he might be thinking. This process
of elimination gives us the opportunity to allow your
dog to progress at his own speed. The third time
your dog is given a command, he'll probably do
it incorrectly just to see if you are going to be
consistent. Once that has been done, the fourth
occasion will completely "delete" or "open" the new "file."

2. GETTING STARTED The equipment you will need:

A 6 ft. leather or web lead. Nylon or rope may slide
through the fingers, causing a burn or blister. A
chain may do likewise, and is too heavy, making
the dog feel that you are pulling.

A flat collar.
A twenty-foot lead, long line, or rope.
Four empty but clean soda cans, slightly crushed
so as to be "square" to prevent them rolling and
creating a prolonged sound, with six pennies
inside each, with tape over the opening.

A utility bag for carrying equipment.
Lastly, you'll need an open mind and a desire to
improve the quality of life for your pet.

2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling

Failure to handle your lead properly is usually
the first mistake that leads to your next and
more crucial mistakes.

The lead must be handled in a casual and relaxed
manner to avoid transmitting tension and triggering
the opposition reflex in your dog.

Start by opening your hand with the thumb extended
and palm facing you. Hang the loop or handle
over the thumb, and gently close fist around both
lengths of the handle.

Close your thumb down over the second joint of
the index finger. Pull down so the handle is snug
over your thumb as you maintain a gentle grasp
around the handle. This is a safety. If your dog
should pull hard, the handle will not accidentally
slip through your palm.

If it is imminent that you will lose balance and
fall, opening the fist will release you and prevent
a fall.

Next, take the length of your lead, and bring it
upward, placing it under the fingers and in contact
with both sides of the handle in your closed palm.

You should now be able to pull or slide the running
length through the palm to make adjustments. Drop
your arm down to your side. The length should
break just at your kneecap if you're dog were in
the heel position.

Ordinarily, the heel position is with your dog on
your left side, and the lead will be held in your
right hand. Your left hand must never (until you
are trained) hold the lead while in the heel position,
except to collect the length to return it to your
right hand.

The length of your lead shall break just below
your left kneecap. If you need to work your dog
on your right side, or from in front, or at a distance,
the lead will be in your left hand. (If you are going
to heel your dog on your right side, for our purposes,
you will need to make the appropriate adjustments
with regard to left and right signals, turns, etc.
I recommend not doing so at this time, unless
physical needs dictate).

The heel position means your dog's shoulder is
at your knee. It does not matter whether he is
standing, sitting, walking, lying down, or jumping
straight up in the air! In fact, if I could get all of
my dogs to heel while jumping straight up in the
air, I would be ecstatic. If your dog's shoulders
are aligned at your knee and he is facing the
same direction as you, that's the heel position.

Trivial as this may seem, nothing in the Wits'
End Dog Training Method (at this point) is arbitrary.

Pay close attention to the above details. Notice
that the running length of the lead should easily
flow through the closed fingers. The arm should
hang relaxed at your side. Keep your back straight;
don't lean over your dog. The length of the lead
should break at your kneecap.

Never allow the length of your lead to loop over
or between any fingers, as this will create a
block, creating tension in your hand, causing
a bend at the elbow, creating tension on your
dog's collar, triggering the opposition reflex,
thus defeating our method.

There should never be any tension applied to
your dog's collar. A flat collar, one that does not
choke, is required to prevent unintentional
constriction or pulling. If you expect your dog to
try to slip out of his collar, you may "back it up"
with a choke collar to prevent his slipping free.

One word of caution: you should never need to
apply enough tension to cause your dog to back
up and slip his flat collar. Whenever pulling occurs,
just immediately give slack into the lead (without
stepping forward) and follow with "good boy."

Tension on the collar must be released instantly.
If pulling continues, you may need to pull your
dog back just one inch, just enough to gain the
slack necessary to give it back to him, while
praising.

This technique and a practice exercise will be
covered in detail in the trouble shooting section.

Here's a brief aside you may appreciate. Once
in a training session, I was instructing a male
student regarding how to praise his terribly out
of control Cocker Spaniel. He told me flat out
that he could not "do that" (meaning praise his
pet as I requested).

This had happened once before, that a rather
"macho" student of mine refused to follow
directions at the onset of our lesson. As I sadly
began to collect my equipment, I asked, "Why
can't you speak to your pet as I request?" He
lowered his eyes, and mumbled that he just
couldn't talk to his dog "like that."

In desperation I asked, "Well, how do you talk
to your dog?" He said that he had a very special
relationship with his critter, and he always talked
to her in a particularly loving manner. "Show me
how you do talk to her," I said. At this point, he
began a litany of cooing and prose that in
remembrance still causes me to choke with laughter!

I realized then that my concern was for naught,
and my efforts would be valued and appreciated.
So feel free to use your own choice of words for
such commands as "praise," or "take a break,"
"you're free," "back to work," and even other
commands such as heel, sit, stay, etc.

Contrary to customary belief, we know that dogs
do understand words. We do not anthropomorphize
(give human qualities to animals), but we do
recognize a dichotomy of cognitive intelligence
based on our experience and empirical evidence,
versus traditional ideology.

This sets the Wits' End Dog Training Method apart,
for which we will remain eternally grateful. One point
of caution, however: be careful not to use words
such as "O.K." in any command sequence, as it
is so commonly used, you may find yourself
accidentally releasing or otherwise inadvertently
signaling your dog.

2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex?

Dr. Ian Pavlov discovered conditioned reflex in
the first decade of this century. He came upon
this discovery quite by accident while working
with some dogs in an experiment for human psychology.

He noticed that some of the dogs coming to his
research laboratory began to drool in anticipation
of the food rewards that were going to be offered
during his experiment, even prior to entering the
laboratory.

This piqued his curiosity to the point that he
needed to see what was going on. He invited
some dogs to stay in the lab for this study. No
doubt you have heard of "Pavlov's bell."

The dogs were presented with some liver while
a bell was struck. After several occasions of this
conditioning, the bell was struck without the
promised treat.

The dogs naturally got excited anticipating the
liver, and began to salivate (drool). Thus came
the discovery of conditioned reflex.

Conditioned reflex is just that. Conditioning, which
simply put means the same stimuli, presented in
the same manner, so as to be exact; and reflex,
that is to say, a reaction over which one has no
control. Be aware, that in order to meet these
criteria successfully, each element must be
adhered to precisely.

That is to say, the exact same treat presented
with the exact same sound, in the exact same
manner each time. Be aware that we are not
suggesting that you use any food for our
purposes, as it would be contra-indicated.

2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and
Teach Any Command in Minutes

Just as a child steps into the street without being
aware of the meaning of the blast of a car horn,
and continues on his way in oblivion, it takes
experiences to become conditioned. I'll bet that
when you step off of a curb, and hear a car horn
blow, your head spins both ways at once, as you
jump back, looking for the impending accident.

The difference is conditioning.

This is going to require a few minutes of practice,
without the presence of your dogs. It would be
preferable to do this with any family members
available, but may be successfully done alone.

What we need to do is develop a sense of timing.

Here is where the previously called for cans with
the pennies will come in. Have the cans rinsed
clean and dry. Insert six pennies in each can,
tape the top shut, and crush the sides of the cans,
so as to make them square to prevent the cans
from rolling, to avoid creating a prolonged sound.

! Silence is Golden !

It is imperative that you handle these cans silently!
At any time, should these training aids accidentally
create a sound, praise must accompany the event.

This will tell the dog you were not addressing his
behavior, and that he should disregard the incident.
When more than one dog is present, and any dog
is being addressed through the use of sound, each
dog must be individually praised and acknowledged
with direct eye contact and non-physical praise.

Praise Must Always Accompany Sound, with one
exception. That is, when a behavior is being
addressed after the fact. When you have discovered
a behavior that occurred when you were not present,
this would be the only time the sound shall be
presented without verbal praise. The details are
covered later in "using sound to break bad behavior."

To teach your dog the "recall" or "come" command,
we must first create a phrase, and select a "key"
or "cue" word in that phrase. Example: "your dog's
name, come, good boy." In this phrase, we shall
select "come" as our "key" or "cue" word.

The objective is to create a brief sound exactly
on the "key" or "cue" word. The phrase must be
spoken with no pauses, commas, or breaths in
between words. The phrase must be spoken
quickly, in an even-tempered tone of voice.

The sound will be applied ONLY on the KEY or
CUE words ONLY on the second and fourth
requests. In other words, give him the opportunity
to respond correctly on each first request following
a command given with a sound cue.

The second request must be accompanied by
sound. The next request would be treated as a
first request. You'll see later.

The first instance of any phrase you will use
must be presented without the accompaniment
of sound. If your dog should respond properly
to this first request, "your dog's name, come,
good boy," praise him immediately, even before
he begins to move.

Any response, the twitch of an ear or tail, a
shuffle of a foot, a brief glance, any reaction at
all, to any command, always requires spontaneous,
instant, continuous praise, for five to fifteen seconds
or however long your dog is thinking about your
request (even if he' thinking of leaving!).

Continue praising constantly until your dog comes
all the way to you, even if it requires that you
move backward as you continue to speak praise
and coax, even plead or beg, but do not repeat
the command phrase.

As long as you are moving backward and he is
coming forward, he's still coming. In this example,
let's say the dog properly (maybe coincidentally)
performed. However, that does not mean that he
will always respond.

Remember, a conditioned reflex means that your
dog has ABSOLUTELY NO CHOICE BUT TO
RESPOND PROPERLY!

Later, when you are done with all of the intricacies
involved, test it out like this: Find yourself and
your trained dog in a comfortable situation, like
yourself sitting in your easy chair and him
snoozing by the fireplace.

Ask him to come in the proscribed manner. When
he gladly jumps up and sticks his big wet nose in
your face, pat him, and tell him he's free.

Let him resume his leisurely pursuits and call him
again. Repeat this until maybe on the fourth or
fifth occasion that you call him, when he believes
there is no point to getting up and coming all the
way over to you just so you can tell him he's
cool and that he may resume his pursuits.

Just as soon as he refuses your trivial request
to come to you, follow the procedure to make
him come.

Remember: any time that your dog does not
respond the first time you ask him to come,
regard this as a major behavioral problem and
take the appropriate action to remedy the situation
(reinstall the come command as a conditioned
reflex during the FPLX).

So now we must try again to set up the situation
whereby your dog refuses to perform a request.

Once again, repeat your (1st request) "dog's
name, come, good boy." If he does not spin
immediately to respond, instantly repeat the
phrase with the accompanying sound:
*(upper case denotes command with sound,
not shouting. All commands much be given in
an even tempered tone): your (2nd request)
"dog's name, COME, good boy," this time,
using the can, by giving it one brief, hard,
downward shake (not a rattle), and only
EXACTLY on the "key" or "cue" word, in this
example, COME.

Let the sound from the can emphasize your "key"
or "cue" word, not your voice. Your voice must
always be used in a calm, even-tempered, never
commanding or authoritative tone.

If any response at all (even an obvious attempt
to run away) occurs, instant praise, once again,
is required. For this example, let's say your dog
chose to continue away from you.

Immediately repeat your phrase without the
accompanying sound and your (3rd request)
"dog's name, come, good boy." At this point,
you might figure that the dog would not respond.

While this may be so, we do not know for sure.
Observation is required. He may have experienced
the desired conditioning from even just that one
instance of presenting the "key" or "cue" word
in association with the sound.

For this reason, we presented our command on
this, your third request, without the conditioning
sound. If any response occurred, again, even a
seemingly negative response like running further
away, praise is required.

If you're certain your dog is not responding, on
this, his third request, the request will then once
again be repeated, for the fourth occasion, this
time, while presenting the sound from another
direction, preferably beyond your dog, and
exactly timed to occur with the "key" or "cue" word.

SOUNDS MUST NEVER BE REPEATED FROM
THE SAME POSITION TWICE IN SUCCESSION!
In this instance you will repeat the command phrase,
your (4th request) (toss can now) "dog's name,
COME, good boy" and toss your can beyond (not
at, but beyond) your dog, so as to cause the can
to strike the ground exactly on time with the "key"
or "cue" word.

This requires just a little bit of skill, because the
can must be ejected several moments prior to
repeating the command phrase, (because of the
distance), so as to strike the ground exactly at
the same time as our "key" or "cue" word, and
the entire sequence must occur as quickly as
possible, *and, the can must be carefully tossed
so as not to sound accidentally from your hand
while being ejected and you must avoid causing
the can to tumble through the air causing
inappropriately timed sounds.

Yes, I agree, things sounded simple enough until
all of this first and third without sound, and second
and fourth with sound stuff. Relax, we'll try this
again, in "real time," and then you may try to practice
on your own for a few minutes.

Let's run through the command sequence as if
your dog were not cooperating. We'll use UPPER
CASE to denote command accompanied with sound.

Practice this while not in the presence of your dogs.
Read it aloud, and actually using the cans. Set
a target about 10 feet away to practice your throw
on the fourth command. Start now: take a deep
breath, hold it, read aloud: "dog's name, come,
good boy"- (next create sound on COME) "dog's
name, COME, good boy"-(repeat quickly) "dog's
name, come, good, boy"-(toss can now) "dog's
name, COME, good boy." Breathe!

See? It's easier than it sounded the first time.
Try this until you've got the timing down so the
"key" or "cue" words and sounds are in sync.

If any response occurs, instant, spontaneous,
constant praise must follow, until your dog is
close enough to pat. Remember, even begging
and pleading are O.K., as long as you do not
move toward him and you do not repeat the
command.

Repeating commands will cause the dog to
cause you to continue repeating commands.

But are we not repeating the command in the
exercise? Yes, we do repeat the command,
but never without punctuating the command
on its first repetition, which will fix that command
into the reflex system. As soon as the conditioned
reflex is installed, the command may not be ever
needed more than once.

That's it! And it happens that fast!

Over some period of time the conditioning may
deteriorate for a variety of reasons. Sometimes,
calling your dog in a more casual manner might
deteriorate the conditioning.

Not following through with enforcing, or not
properly reinforcing correct performance of the
command could deteriorate the conditioned reflex.

The most common reason would likely be repeating
commands. Dogs thrive on the extra attention,
and will keep you entertained for countless hours,
or for as long as you will repeat commands.

Once any command is issued, it must be completed.

We have a system that will guide your dog's correct
performance, or provide you with a strategic withdrawal.

You are the one in charge; so therefore, you may
change your mind, as you so desire. We'll show
you how to insure that you come out looking smarter
than your dog.

The first time your dog fails to respond properly
to the "recall" or "come " command, regard that
as a major behavioral problem.

Make the effort to correctly reinforce the command
during the ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise,"
explained in detail later on.

Of course, in our last example here, the plan was
to perform the command sequence as quickly as
possible, with no pauses, just as though your dog
were not responding and you were correctly
operating the sounds.

Well, let's continue, and presume that our dog did
not respond after the fourth request. At this point,
your job is to turn and walk determinedly away,
without looking back, speaking continuously and
praising him without breaking your stride, without
looking back, until you can pat him.

You may ask, "What leads you to believe Rover
is going to suddenly respond by following us when
we turn and walk away?" Easy! The training in our
next two exercises is going to instill the concept
in one's mind.

First comes the "Hot and Cold Exercise," which
will get the dog settled and paying attention to you.
Then, the ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise"
which is the single most important training technique
available.

The ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise," combined
with the installation of the conditioned reflex to the
"recall" or "come" command, will give you unimaginable
control of your dog.

You could start with a strange dog, and in fifteen
minutes of work, have him responding just as
though you've been "good buddies" for a "dog's age!"

Once again, things seem simple enough, so we'll
throw in a little extra. Initially, just getting Rover to
come in response to the "recall" command, close
enough to be able to pat him, would seem to be
sufficient.

While that may be good enough for most people,
the Wits' End Dog Training Method promises and
requires strict and exacting discipline. For now,
in this initial phase of training, it would be counter
productive to be any more exacting than to just
be satisfied with a brief pat.

However, after this initial phase of training is
complete (maybe just one session of work, but
do follow directions, and do this four times),
you will be expected to cause your dog to sit
directly in front of you during the "recall" or "come"
exercise.

This will be extremely important in the "big picture."
But, for now, we do not need to be so exact. The
hard part is done!

3. The "Hot And Cold" Exercise

Remember the children's game in which an object
is selected, and the one who is "it" is directed to
find same based on directions of "hot or cold" to
indicate proximity to the object? We are going to
do the same with your dog's attention, with you
being the selected object.

This "Hot and Cold" exercise takes about two
minutes to perform. Done properly, this exercise
will have the effect of shutting off his attention to
anything other than you. This practice should be
used any time your dog becomes distracted or is
not keeping his attention focused on you.

Our objective is to cause your dog always to
have one ear and one eye focused on you. If
this is done correctly, your dog will end up
directly in front of you, relaxed, and waiting for
your next idea.

To begin, ask your dog if he "wants to go to work,"
tell him "good boy," as you show him your lead,
and lean back from him. This will help command
his attention up and toward you, without focusing
on putting on the lead.

We want to be sure not to give the impression that
we're assaulting him with the lead! Bend at the
knees, keeping your back straight as you affix your
lead to his collar, gently talking, but not physically
touching any more than necessary. Tell him he's
a good boy as you head out the door.

As soon as you have cleared the area in front of
your door, come to a halt. As your dog moves
forward and back, around and in front of you,
allow your lead to flow smoothly through your
hands, the free hand reaching out to collect
your lead at its mid point, and place it in the palm
with the handle to keep it out from under your dog's
feet as he moves in towards you, playing it out as
he moves away, collecting it as he returns.

Just get used to the feeling of allowing your lead to
flow through your hands, collecting it again, and
allow it to feed out as your dog moves. Be sure
not to pull or allow tension on the collar.

Do not lean toward your dog or move toward him,
as this will cause the opposite effect, consequently
subordinating ourselves and subverting our efforts.

If your dog looks toward you, you'll tell him he's a
good boy. Always, every time, no exceptions ever,
no matter what, when, or where, if your dog looks
toward you, even a brief momentary glance out of
the corner of his eye, that requires praise.

This rule will never vary. *If necessary maybe
squatting down will bring him in close, but we don't
want to call or force him in.

After just two or three minutes the dog should be
settled and paying attention to you with one eye
and one ear and his tail gently swaying. If this
exercise requires more time, that's fine too. Spend
twenty or thirty minutes in one spot, just calming the
dog and gaining his trust and commanding his attention
through the intermittent praise.

4. The "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" (May
Be Done Solo)

Before starting the "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise, you should perform the "Hot and Cold"
exercise to get your dog's attention focused on you.

Because of its simplicity, the "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise is often discounted or ignored. By the way,
you don't need your entire family to do this exercise.
You may do it with some family members, or even by
yourself.

The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise is equally
important as the "recall" or "come" command.
It is the basis for your total relationship with your
dog, your success or failure as a team, but its
subtlety is deceiving.

It requires about fifteen minutes to perform on
the first occasion, about twelve minutes for the
second occasion, about eight minutes on the
third occasion, and no more than six to eight
minutes on successive occasions.

This exercise must be done with the entire family
on four successive occasions, preferably in four
different locations. (The ideal scenario would be
to perform the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise
four times at the first location, four times at the
second location, four times at the third location,
and four times at the fourth location).

Thereafter, this exercise should be used as needed,
that is, any time your dog seems not to pay close
attention to you, or seems easily distracted, or
any time any behavior problems arise.

It is a good practice to do on a weekly basis (just
once, at one location is fine) after the initial series,
later, on a monthly basis, kind of like a "tune up."

If you've noticed a pattern developing here, you're
right: Dogs learn on the basis of four properly
performed repetitions. These applications should
be performed in four different locations or training
situations.

You are going to be walking with all of the immediate
members of your family, and your dog, in a large
square.

What you will need is an area large enough to
encompass a twenty-foot square area, including
additional space to provide clearance for the length
of your twenty-foot lead. In other words, you will
need a 60'x60' area.

If it is impossible to find such a large area, you
could get by with less space. Once again,
although training should not be conducted in
your dog's own back yard, this exercise and
"COME" ARE exceptions to the rule, but not
for the initial or regular practice.

Do this in your yard after the dog understands
the principles in neutral territory.

Insofar as it is necessary to do these exercises
in his back yard, you will find it counterproductive
if over used.

If you are with the members of your family, gather
in a close-knit group, and proceed to walk as one
unit from your starting point, at the rate of about
one step per second, forward, for the distance of
20 feet.

Do not look at your dog. If he moves along with
you, tell him he's a good boy. Everybody must
speak, all together. If he looks up at you, that
requires praise.

If he does not follow the group, that's fine. Every
time he comes toward the family, praise him.
If he wanders off, that's fine too. As he returns
to you, praise. Turn left at your first 20-foot mark,
and proceed slowly on the second leg of this square.

Each time he looks up at you, praise. If he wanders,
that's fine; do not speak to him unless he is returning
toward the family pack.

Notice where the turns are, and try to find each
corner of this square as you continue walking
slowly to your next corner and turn left again.

As you proceed around this imaginary square,
simply praise him as he returns to the family
pack, and ignore him as he wanders away.

You will notice that as you continue around
this square, your dog will begin to stay closer
to the family pack.

On about your fourth trip around the square,
your dog should be fairly comfortable maintaining
a close proximity to the group.

When this is so, simply come to a halt at any
corner of our square. Face each other, and
speak amongst yourselves.

Your dog should be ignored, unless he looks
directly up at the family, for which praise is
required. If he comes close enough, a pat
would be in order.

Remain at this corner, chatting casually, until
our subject dog joins the group, but for no longer
than two minutes.

When Rover settles next to the family, give him
just another moment or two to get nice and
comfortable. Now, altogether and on cue, without
telegraphing this to our subject dog, move forward
all together, slowly toward your next corner.

As soon as your dog starts to get up to follow,
everyone must sound off with praise, and
everyone must stop praising just as soon as
your dog's attention wanders, or he moves
away toward the end of his 20-foot lead.

As before, come to a halt at your next corner,
face each other and converse casually amongst
yourselves until your dog joins the group, settles,
or gets comfortable, and then as before, move
forward toward the next corner as a group.

Repeat this at each corner. That's it!

Now if you'd like, you can get a jump on the
advanced work in Part 2 by simply walking
as a group to the opposite corner of the
square taking four steps forwards, turn left
for two steps, turn right and continue four
steps, turn left for two, right for four, and
finish up with a 180 degree turn to your left,
and return to the opposite corner in the same
manner, completing that with a 180 turn to
the right.

Now, the reason we covered the "recall" or
"come" command at the very beginning, is
because during the "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise," you will likely have several opportunities
to install the conditioned reflex.

At some point during this "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise, I expect your dog will go all the way off
to the end of his 20-foot lead, and not care to
follow the family or, he may become distracted
looking around at whatever might interest him.

If he gets involved smelling a spot, or looking at
something, and your pack has moved to the point
where your lead is becoming taut, stop.

Do not pull.

Turn facing your dog, and use the cans to condition
him to "come" at this time. One member of the
family should be responsible for working the
command, but every member should participate
with the praise as your dog is coming in on the
"recall."

Also, if it is necessary to back up to help to coax
him to come to you, the entire family should also
participate in backing up.

If these directions have been followed properly,
the obvious difference in your dog's demeanor
and attitude will be stunning.

5. Practicing The "Recall" or "Come" Command

After completing the pre-requisite ""Family Pack
Leadership" exercise, any area is good to
complete training to install this conditioned reflex.

Note: to ensure that the "recall" or "come"
command is properly installed, ideally you should
achieve four perfect recalls on lead during each
training session, in four different locations.

It is vital to achieve this before practicing the
"recall" or "come" command off lead.

The "recall" or "come" command may be practiced
on lead anywhere, off lead in a fenced area, or
inside the house, provided there are no hiding
places that your dog may get into or under....

Let's not defeat ourselves by attempting to do
something prematurely-that is, not properly
installing the command prior to attempting it in
a more difficult situation, or a command we know
he is going to resist, without having done all of
the basics, prior to attempting to tempt fate!

If you know your dog has never come to you
after he has gone under the couch to hide, don't
try calling him out from under there, or even in
that room, because you know that as soon as
you call him, he's going to try to escape to the
security of where you can't get him, until you
have accomplished the preliminaries, and you
know he is properly conditioned in at least four
other places.

Let's say we're dealing with a real sharp dog,
one that knows just how to manipulate each
of the family, one against the other, each in turn.

You know the kind I'm talking about, the one
who's just "so cute," he takes advantage of
any opportunity to get his way, usually ending
with a fight between family members. Got one
like that? Just because we're gentle and humane,
does not mean we can't be vindictive.

Let's get ready to burst his bubble!

Divide yourselves into two groups, equally
divided between those whom he favors. Each
group will have one can, and one person
responsible for operating the manipulation of
the sound cues.

Of course, the person in command will change,
as each individual takes his or her turn. Remember,
it is not necessary to have the person responsible
for issuing the command also responsible for
creating the sounds, unless they are proficient
at this technique.

Using the 20-foot lead, space yourselves 20 feet
apart. Observe carefully to determine which group
should issue the "recall" or "come" command, based
upon whomever he is least attentive towards.

Issue the requests to come as previously described.
In the event we need to pursue this command to its
fourth request, the second group will create the
sound on the fourth occasion, and one and all,
moving together will continue towards the group
issuing the command and lead the dog as a group
toward the individual issuing the command, until
completed upon being petted.

Spend a few moments socializing among you,
as a subterfuge, and then drift apart to repeat
this exercise as necessary.

This will have the effect of putting your dog at
the bottom of the ladder of the pecking order of
importance, and everyone else above, which
will take away his sense of being a peer, or
equal in importance, to any member of your
family.

Once again, as always, successfully repeat this
exercise at least four times with each individual,
and do so in four different places. If these exercises
are done properly, it should feel like you've got a
new dog at home, and he'd feel better fast, knowing
that everyone in his family is an appropriate leader.

6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex

Any command may be taught in the same manner
as you have just learned. Don't use this technique
indiscriminately. We can work several commands
at once, but right now while everyone is just getting
familiar with this new approach, and your dog is
still "upside-down" with the changes he's going
through, don't rush.

If your dog is used to being forced and punished,
it's likely to take a few sessions for him to believe
you've really changed your approach, dogs who
aren't used to begin treated gently are not comfortable
offering trust till you've proven your intent. One lapse
of judgement or correction will restimulate all the
previous mishandling and impede your progress.

Here is an example of a commonly desired
command that you will find useful. This example
is meant to more thoroughly show you the concept.

Any command, for any reason, in any circumstances,
can be substituted. But remember, we do not
want your dog to "do things," we want them to
learn things.

Conditioned reflex makes things happen, without
understanding. Use it sparingly, especially at the
beginning.

Let's say you want your pet to go in the other
room. You might select the phrase, "go in the
other room, good boy." You might select the
word room as your "key" or "cue" word.

Present your command in the described manner,
and continue on to your fourth request, and
present your sound appropriately beyond your
dog. At this, move forward while continuing to
praise him as you go into the ordered room,
and thoroughly praise and pat him upon completion.

But what if he did not follow through? Defer to
your "come" command, to which you know he
has been properly conditioned. Upon completing
the "come" command, you should find him there,
in the other room, with yourself.

Now, as you return to where you were when
you first issued your command to "go in the
other room good boy," and you should find
your dog satisfactorily waiting in the other room.

Don't be surprised if you find him right there with
you, in your original places. What went wrong?

Well, if he negotiated his way into the other room,
even if only to follow you on your fourth request,
did he not perform the original command?

Of course he did, but he immediately broke it
when you left that room.

What may be done when your dog breaks his
command? Also, what may be done when your
dog does a behavior you would rather he not do?

7. Use Sound To Break Bad Behavior!

The fastest, easiest, and most effective approach
is to recreate the undesired situation in a controlled
setting, and correctly use sound distractions with
praise to erase the misbehavior.

*Please note: any sound may be used as long
as it is variable in direction, that's why we use
the cans with pennies. The sound doesn't have
to be loud, only noticeable and instantly followed
by prolonged, exuberant non physical praise.

The source of sound must be brief, and you should
be able to present it from different directions on
each consecutive instance. Snapping fingers from
random directions (if you're close to the dog),
followed by praise, will work fine.

You may also use keys or whatever else comes
to mind, only remember that the dog should take
notice of the sound, not be intimidated by it.

If the dog doesn't "APPEAR" to notice the sound,
just follow through as though he did, cause he did if
you created it, and he'll become conditioned if
you simply follow the technique. You're not going
to SEE a lot of what we're working with, just follow
the techniques regardless of what your intuition sez.

Dogs can learn or unlearn almost anything in four
properly conducted repetitions. Taken to its extreme,
these four repetitions should be performed in four
different places, or with different people, dogs,
or whatever the "props" involved may be.

Understanding how dogs think, learn, and process
information is a stretch of the imagination for most
of us. It is obvious that animals know more about
psychology than we do.

They think, have a sense of humor, communicate,
tease, lie, steal, etc., just like any one else. But
they don't think like humans.

Dogs are limited to thinking like dogs. It's your
responsibility to think things out from their
perspective and try to use good judgment.

Be consistent. Dogs get confused if you're not
consistent.

Now that you are getting familiar with teaching
a command through conditioned reflex, you can
use similar techniques to stop or break any
behavior whatsoever.

Using the cans *(or other source of sound so long
as it is brief, and so long as it can be presented
from different directions), on each consecutive
instance, are all that you need to do to break any
behavior.

Simply create the sound, and follow through with
praise! It's that simple. Any behavior can be
stopped or broken, simply by creating a sound,
and praising immediately.

Following the technique for a few successive
repetitions will quickly extinguish the behavior,
not just interrupt it every time it keeps happening.

We're looking for total 100% perfect behavior.

The secret is to allow the undesired behavior to
begin again, and simply present the sound from
another direction, and follow through with praise.

Of course you have to understand how your dog
thinks and learns in order to achieve this successfully.

Each time you create a sound to stop or break a
behavior, you must praise him INSTANTLY and
continue for as long as he refrains from continuing
such behavior (at least until he no longer thinks
about that instance, usually ten or fifteen seconds),
and be prepared to create your sound distraction
and praise as soon as the behavior begins again.

This is the sticking point with so many trainers.
"HOWE COME should I praise this critter if he's
not even doing what I want?"

Remember, dogs do not think in human terms.
Most behavioral problems are simply a failure to
communicate clearly.

This is a scientific conditioning technique, and it
cannot fail if you use the techniques accordingly.

*Of course, you could continue correcting your
dog forever, as most trainers do. We do not
understand HOWE COME a trained dog needs
correction.

If he were trained, that should be the end of the
matter. This would imply that if a trained dog makes
a mistake, that this mistake is probably not an
accident, but rather, a failure of the training
methods used, not a challenge to your authority.

Perhaps this is why so many trainers seem to
enjoy correcting their dogs forever. I suppose
the real reason it is so difficult for us to share
the Wits' End Dog Training Method with other
pet professionals, is because we take all the
satisfaction out of "dealing with" an obstreperous
dog.

The problem is that corrections do not teach new
behavior. Our technique actually deletes errors
in your dog's thinking. It takes only a few moments
of time to permanently cancel or delete a behavior.

Correcting a behavior, rather than deleting it,
takes the entire lifetime of your dog. Make your
choice, to solve behavioral problems permanently
in a few moments, or get the dubious satisfaction
of correcting your dog's behavioral problems each
time they occur, for the entire life of your dog.

When you get tired of correcting, whining, nagging,
and arguing, start reading this manual again, follow
the directions, and change your values.

Change is difficult.

So let's go back to the prior example using the
"other room" command. As you prepare to exit
the room after having shown him the meaning of
your request, create a sound just before your dog
reaches the exit or doorway.

As always, instantly praise him. Continue to exit
the room yourself, and if he continues to try to
exit, create the sound behind him, and praise again.

If he successfully exits the room against your
command, simply repeat the original command
"go in the other room good boy." Of course, this
will be treated as a new request, to be performed
according to the progression of events as required.

In other words, you must pay attention to the last
instance in which sound was used, and try to insure
that in the next instance, the sound comes from
the appropriate source even from day in to day
out, one day to the next, never vary the routine.

In other words, if your dog went into the "other
room" on his first request without sound, perhaps
strictly as a coincidence, then, after you've tried
to correct him from leaving, that instance would
require the application of sound with your next
request, which in actuality, would be his second
request to "go in the other room good boy."

To review:

First request, "Go in the other room, good boy."
Second request, "Go in the other ROOM good boy"
Third request, "Go in the other room, good boy"

Let's say he accomplished the request properly.
When he violates the command, your next request
to send him back there would be, in actuality, his
fourth request, requiring sound on this command.

If you are not thoroughly confused at this point,
I'm surprised. Here's the rest of the secret:
The sequence of events never starts over again,
but always continues from the last instance in
which the sound was used.

It is imperative to try to remember the last occasion
in which your dog was given a command. For
example, let's say he's out in the back yard.

You call him to come in, and he fails to respond.
So you reach for the can, and repeat your request
accompanied with one hard downward shake to
create sound. Naturally, your dog will respond on
this occasion.

Next time that he is out in the yard-even if it's the
next day-and he fails to respond when you ask
him to come in, you've got to try to remember
when it was, that you last needed to re-enforce
the command, using sound.

So you might stop for a moment to think, "Gee,
wasn't it just last night, that I asked him to come
inside, and failing that, needed to create the sound
on my second request for him to come in?"

Did the sound come from my hand, or did the can
need to be tossed beyond him?

Follow through thinking this out, and make the right
decision. If you can't remember the last instance,
that's O.K. Simply do your best, and set yourself
an appointment to do the "Family Pack Leadership
Exercise" when you plan to re-install the conditioned
reflex to "come." It'll take about ten minutes.

7A. Other Examples of Using Sound to Correct "Bad Behavior"

As stated earlier, any sound, accompanied by
praise, is sufficient. For example: let's say your
dog walks right over to you while you're eating
dinner, and expects to help himself, without
permission, to your food.

If you were to snap your fingers in front of his face
and say "good boy, nice dog, what a good dog you
are," you'd feel pretty much like an idiot, until he
opened his mouth to grab your food, at which
point you'd reach around behind him and snap your
fingers again, following through with lavish praise.

If your timing and tone of voice were correct, he
would have stopped, but yet still be thinking of
taking your food without permission.

So we expect him to try again to get your food.
As he leans his big wet nose over your plate, and
again you were to snap your fingers in front of his
nose, and following the procedure, using lavish
praise for this horrible mistake, you'll find him
leaning back a little, thinking, thinking, thinking,
thinking, and thinking (and find yourself praising,
praising, and praising).

Now, he's going to look at your food, then look
up at you, then back at the food. Inasmuch as
it goes against everything you've ever been
lead to believe, you must praise this thought,
this learning plateau. You can learn to overcome
your natural instincts.

It's not easy being human.

Now we fully expect him to try once again to get
your food. At the moment he begins to make his
move, if you were to reach around behind him
and snap your fingers and speak praises, this
should be the last time you need address this
behavior, possibly for the rest of your life, or
until you change your location.

Pick up your plate and move to another chair,
and your loving pet will try again to steal your
food. Now, begin the procedure again, taking it
to its fourth properly performed repetition.

Now, he'll probably never try to steal your food
as long as you sit at either of the two positions
at your table that he has been conditioned to.

Taking this example to a third seat at the table,
and then to a fourth seat at the table will permanently
break this behavior. That is, until someone else sits
there with his or her food in front of him or her.

The point is that we will need four people or plate
settings at this table to permanently eradicate this
behavior. O.K.?

How about if we rearrange the dining room, and
move the table to another location? If you figure
this to be a "new environment," you've begun to
understand how your dog figures it to be.

Now, you know what to do, and how to do it.

A student called one day because although things
were moving along well with her dog, the dog
continued to jump up on the couch. When asked
how does she address the problem, she stated
hat she reaches over for one of the cans, gives
it a shake and praises, and indeed, the dog gets
off the couch, but gets back on again shortly
thereafter.

"How do you deal with that?" I asked.

"I reach for the cans, and give it another shake,
and as always, she gets right off, but gets back
on it again shortly thereafter."

"Don't you remember that the sound must come
from another direction?" I asked.

"Oh yes, now I remember. Creating the sound will
not be effective without alternating the source or
direction. Sorry to bother you about that," she said.

"Before you go, tell me, did you continue to do the
"Family Pack Leadership Exercise" at three other
locations, and finish reading the manual?" I asked.

7B. Unacceptable Demonstrations of Dominance

Your dog needs to control totally, or to be controlled
totally. In the big scheme of things, barring any
unusual tendencies, outward appearances should
look and feel like you are expressing proper control.

Even in the best of situations, most of us try to
get as much as we think we can get, or at least
as much as we feel we deserve. For the most
part, your dog doesn't want to get your job, your
possessions, or any thing else, except you.

All things being equal, you are the ultimate challenge.
You might be considered kind of like a doggy version
of Mt. Everest.

When climbing a mountain, one rule of thumb is
to obtain a good purchase, before aiming for
another handhold or foothold. Just about every
interaction with your dog might be considered a
purchase on your summit. We don't want him to
fall, but there's no room at the top.

You might look at the intricacies of the relationship
with your dog sort of being like a chess game.
Every interaction is a strategic assault that has to
be analyzed, assessed, and at some point countered.

Most canine interactions center on control issues.
These power plays go on all the time, and usually
take place without us even being aware, that we
are the pawn in a power play.

Although most of these ploys are harmless and
laughable, they do add up and scores are kept.

You don't have to play well, but like it or not,
you're in the game. Being consistent means you
get extra points.

Let's look at an example of how we innocently
participate, and the ramifications that occur as
a result.

Your dog jumps up on your couch. You look over
and tell him to get off. Being a good dog he jumps
right off, and resumes his appropriate spot.

Being a dog, he's going to try again. So he does.
And, doing your best, you remind him that you had
just asked him not to do that. But, he ignores you,
and you insist. So he goes.

But (being a dog) he tries again, and you (being
human) have got other things to do. Besides, he's
just been groomed, and you're getting another
couch soon, and you've decided to put this couch
in a good spot so can have it, and you're tired,
and it really doesn't matter.

So you ignore him.

This One Instance Of Inconsistency Just Fractured
His Entire Concept Of The Infrastructure Of Your
Home And your and His Role In It.

If you cannot make up your mind as to what
is important, then he needs to make decisions
so as to insure stability in his den.

7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance

How about every time your dog steps on your
feet? Don't you think your dog knows where
each of his feet are, and where they belong?

Or, how about his tail? Does he accidentally
smack you as he goes by? Maybe he clears
your coffee table as he moves past?

Certainly you can't expect your dog to understand
that this long, unwieldy appendage can rearrange
your knick-knacks or whatever.

"Maybe it's best to keep him out of those areas.
Besides, he's like a bull in a china shop."

We don't need to put up with these sorts of
"unavoidable" impositions on our lives or property.

You may say, "But surely there's no way to correct
such innocent impositions."

If you believe that, then you've wasted your time
reading this manual. Either start over again, or
reexamine your thinking. Let's look at how you
might remedy these situations. Remember, your
dog is going to model your behavior and act in kind.

You set the standard for good behaviors by demonstration.

7D. How To Correct Mouthing

Every puppy goes through a mouthing stage. It's
usually out grown by the end of teething. That
means he needs to chew something to cut new teeth.

Provide appropriate items to be chewed. Everything
else is not to be touched. Establish appropriate
mouth behavior right from first contact. There's
no excuse for being abused by your dogs teeth
until he's finished teething.

*Some trainers teach "bite inhibition." That's
almost the right idea.

First, mouthing is a bonding activity, so we don't
want to discourage it antagonistically. Appropriate
mouthing activity is up to you to determine. Some
of us don't like dog's mouths on us at all. Other's
don't mind and even enjoy it.

I always play with my dog's mouths, and I don't
mind gentle mouthing. Whatever you attitude,
just realize that others are going to be mouthed
or not in the same manner as you accept.

There's no such thing as being too young to learn
any behavior, within the physical limits of his body.

His brain is ready to be programmed to learn
everything he will ever need to know by the age
of 18 days old. Training your dog is not much
different than creating a filing system.

Just as you address each page that appears on
your screen, each behavior your dog performs
should be dealt with before moving on to something
else. Of course, if you are not prepared to cope
with a behavior because of, perhaps time restrictions,
make note of that behavior and set and appointed
time to re create the situation and address it totally.

The first instance your dog puts his mouth on you
inappropriately is to be regarded as an issue.
Each time you permit any inappropriate behavior
to continue without being addressed, you are
setting the precedent for more of the same behavior.

TECHNIQUE:

Subtle. Just be subtle. Whenever you have a
situation that needs immediate response, be
very careful to not let your dog know you are
either upset or going to correct him.

Casual. Just as casual as you would be as though
you were explaining to your best friend how to
find a tool in your garage. If your friend couldn't
find something, you'd just tell him where to look
and expect him to try again. And, if he returned
empty handed, you'd probably suggest a better
way to find the item.

Matter of factly. Just as matter of factly as you
would if your friend were to return without the
desired item once again. You'd calmly and matter
of factly get together and show him how to get it.

No big deal.

When your dog first opens his mouth toward you,
or any inappropriate matter, just create a sound
and praise for five to fifteen seconds. If he refrains
from that behavior, continue to praise. If he
continues with the misbehavior, repeat the
sound distraction from another direction followed
by prolonged, non physical praise.

If he continues, use the command " 'Out!,' good
boy, nice dog..." as you gently remove his teeth
from the object, immediately releasing his mouth
and praising all at the same time.

Once again, it is necessary to allow the behavior
to resume. As he thinks once again to open his
mouth toward an inappropriate item, repeat the
above procedure.

Understand that this process will require four
properly performed repetitions. Observe carefully
for the momentary hesitation on his third attempt,
and be careful to praise that moment and continue
praising for up to fifteen seconds or until the
mouthing stops or resumes.

And don't forget, once you've successfully inhibited
the behavior on one such item, you have at least
three more occasions for which this behavior
must be addressed to permanently delete it from
his repertoire of misbehavior.

Bear in mind, this technique will need to be repeated
in four different places, and perhaps with four
different items such as people, as well as any
item into which he may choose to sink his little teeth.

In other words, if he's chewing on your left hand,
addressing this behavior for four consecutive
occasions will prevent him chewing on only your
left hand, and only in that one area.

To successfully break this behavior, allow the
behavior to resume on the other hand. Next, he'll
probably look forward to chewing on your ankle,
and then he'll try the other ankle.

Sure, it sounds like a lot of work, and a young
puppy may indeed forget a previous lesson,
especially if he is in the process of cutting new
teeth.

Address each instance with patience and consistency.

Soon you'll see him think of the undesirable behavior,
and look right at you expecting the praise for having
restrained himself.

Remember, any time you show annoyance, you
are actually re-enforcing the undesirable behavior.

At some point in your dog's early life, it was likely
that his mom had the duty to correct him for
something like chewing on her, or for taking her
food.

Perhaps you'd think mom dogs would share all
their food with their puppies. That may be true
most of the time, just as most mom dogs won't
get thoroughly upset when their babies chew
on her.

But at some point, mom needs to protect herself
from her puppies; and furthermore, nature dictates
appropriate rules of behavior that she is compelled
to enforce.

Mom dogs will bat at their pups sideways with
their mouths, while making a guttural sound much
like the word out. Kind of like an umpire might be
heard to say. This, if your pup had ever been
corrected by his mom, it will have a profound
effect on him, much like Pavlov's bell.

In many instances this sound will stop a dog in
is tracks.

If you fail to praise immediately after creating this
sound, you will not have the benefits of it. Remember
any sound created to address misbehavior must
be accompanied with spontaneous, instant, constant,
non-physical praise, until the thought process has
finished, usually lasting between four to fifteen seconds.

Let him think about the occurrence of this sound,
and its relationship to his behavior. Allow the
behavior to once again begin t ooccur.

As soon as you determine that he's thinking of
opening his mouth again, simply create another
sound from a different source of origin, and
resume praise.

Once again, allow the behavior to begin to start,
and before he can complete the thought to begin
the act, c reateanothersoundfollowedwithpraise.

This time, your dog should understand the reasoning
behind the sounds. He's going to think about the
behavior, and pause while he's thinking about the
prior instances of this.

You must praise this time period that he is processing
this information. It's critical that you observe him each
time after you have created a sound to interrupt a
behavior, to recognize this hesitation period during
which he is momentarily refraining from engaging in
this behavior.

Because this problem of mouthing is so common
and difficult, and serious, here is an artificial aid
that can be used to insure success. Please use
all of the recommended suggestions first, at least
to be fair that your dog has had the opportunity
to learn through appropriate methods.

Dr. Sloan created a liniment that bears his picture
on the label. This is guaranteed to inhibit mouthing
or chewing on such items as electric cords, leads,
anything.

Be sure to avoid contact with eyes, even long after
this preparation has been handled. You'll find it on
the shelf in any Rexall store, or ask your pharmacist
to order it. "Sloan's liniment." A little goes a long
way, so get the small size, and be prepared to put
up with the not unpleasant but pervasive aroma for
a few days.

7E. "No Dogs on Beds?" And Other Problems

If you don't want your dog to use your bed, or
to come up on your bed only when invited, you
can use a combination of sound distraction/praise
and reflex command installation to achieve the
goal you desire.

For the purpose of this exercise, let's assume
that you want your dog to come up on the bed
only when he is invited.

Scenario: your dog jumps on the bed without
permission. You should look for the most
appropriate "correction" based on the dog's
thinking. Let's examine how the dog sees this
picture, and then we'll be able to understand
better how the Wits' End Dog Training Method
works.

So... your dog is cruising through the house, he
sees the bed and says, "Hey, Mom/Dad isn't using
the bed. Maybe I'll jump up and wait for them."

That's not inappropriate, so when you see him
just say "Get off the bed good boy" and if
necessary repeat with the sound cue on the
key word "bed." Failing that, a come command
would be appropriate.

(This scenario demonstrates HOWE COME it
is necessary to install a proper "recall" or "come"
command as described earlier in the manual.)

Let's now assume that your dog has obeyed your
"come" command, but then tries another leap on
the bed. This time, use sound distraction with praise.

If he gets his feet on the bed and refuses to come
off after the third time of sound distraction and
praise, ask for the "come" command. Use the
"come" command as a default for any unfulfilled
command, but only after giving all other options
first.

This will become more evident as we get into
the heeling pattern exercises.

If you are already on the bed and your dog jumps
up without permission, use sound distraction
and praise (3 times), and then if this is not
obeyed, give the command "get off the bed
good boy" and follow through.

If necessary, you would get off the bed, call
him to come and sit in front of you, return to
heel, and release him and get back into bed
and wait until he attempts again.

(You can learn more about the "return to heel"
exercise in Part II of the W.E.D.T.M. Manual.)

Lastly, if you detect that your dog has been on
the bed when you weren't present, drop a sound
can on the bed casually in his presence while
not on the bed, and be silent. Follow the technique
as in any other "after the fact" behavior.

7F Housebreaking Technique

The more you try to "housebreak" your dog, the
more anxiety he'll associate with it, and you will
never get it done. Here are directions that will
quickly get you in good shape with her, but you
must follow the directions exactly.

Some dogs like to exercise, run around for a
few minutes before they relieve themselves.
If that's what your dog likes and if that's what
you want, by all means do that first but get back
into the Technique so you'll have the ability to
teach your dog to take his break in two minutes flat.

Part of the solution is to teach the dog to relieve
himself on command so that the dog knows the
purpose of his trip outside, and that he's got two
minutes to relieve himself.

That can be done in a couple of days with a
determined effort to supervise and walk the dog
when appropriate breaks are necessary, or when
the dog shows signs that he needs to go out.

Two minutes of standing in one appropriate break
area, without walking or talking (which would will
only distract the dog).

The request to "take a break good boy" should
be given and if the dog sniffs the ground he should
be praised. If he looks around at the birds or other
distractions, a second request to "take a break
good boy" should be given.

If he sniffs the ground he should be told he's a
good boy again, if not, you should elapse the
two minutes without walking around, and return
inside on command, if you're working on obedience.

Don't fixate on the lack of results, we're talking
about learning and conditioning a habit, not just
the mechanics of the alimentary canal and bladder.

If the dog did not relieve himself, constant
SURREPTITIOUS (subtle, unnoticed) supervision
will be necessary until the dog again shows signs
of needing to relieve himself.

When that happens (it may only be five minutes
after having just been out), he should be offered
another break, and the same procedure should follow.

You've got to wait till the pup "asks" or shows
signs of "discomfort" indicating he needs to relieve
himself, or you wont be teaching him to be able
to contain himself.

That's HOWE COME many "trainers" can't quickly
house train their dogs, they never TRAIN them to
be able to "hold it," because they're WORRIED
about the dog making a mistake.

They WORRY more about teaching an unwanted
behavior than they THINK about TEACHING a
desired behavior. Two minutes, and that's it.
No more than two requests to relieve himself,
and no unnecessary walking while on command
to "take a break."

He should be handled on a six foot lead to prevent
him from wandering around and getting distracted
from his task. Conclude the break with the "back
to work" command and have the dog return to
heel and sit, before continuing.

THIS IS CRITICAL for more advanced trained dogs,
you'll understand as you read the Wits' End Dog
Training Method manual.

IF THE DOG FAILS TO RETURN TO HEEL AND
SIT, THAT MEANS HE'S STILL GOT TO RELIEVE
HIMSELF.

You can then ask him if he needs to relieve himself
again, INSTEAD OF the default for breaking a
command as per the Wits' End Dog Training
Method manual and he's GONNA KNOW that
he's between a rock and a hard place.

He's going to have to make a decision. That's
the fundamental principle of the Wits' End Dog
Training Method. It's a very powerful technique.

You may not have just a housebreaking problem,
but also a behavior problem. Every time you react
to your dog's housebreaking mistake, you are
reinforcing it as a negative attention getting device.

That's HOWE COME screaming NO or scolding
or doing anything to call your attention to a behavior
TEACHES the dog he can pull your chain.

Here's what you need to do to end your dog's
ability to pull your chain. Any malbehavior is
being reinforced when you confront the dog
about the behavior.

The problem with housebreaking is, you may not
know if the accident was because the dog NEEDED
to relieve himself, or maybe he didn't KNOW any
better, or if he's SICK, or if he's just stabbing you
in the back for scolding him when he tried to steal
your toast this morning.

So, don't scold, and we can eliminate THAT MAJOR
CAUSE of HOWESbreaking accidents.

This becomes a vicious cycle, the punishment
or scolding only create more stress and anxiety,
which may cause other behavior problems as a
replacement, even though confronting the dog
may seem to "work" at the moment.

Obviously, confronting the dog should not have
been the recommended method to deal with this,
or any behavior problem. If that's the kind of advice
your getting from your pet professionals, run like
the dickens and tell them to call Jerry.

Keeping the lead on your dog while you go about
the house is often recommended, and might
occasionally work. HOWEver, you can't just tie
a dog on your belt and expect him to act like a
key chain or drag him around like a sack of sand
and expect him to set where you leave him.

The only time the dog should be on lead with you
is when the dog is properly on command. Otherwise,
the restriction will cause stress and further promote
other behavior problems.

HOWE can you deal with the dog tied to you if you
haven't learned proper lead handling techniques?
The pup isn't a sack of sand that can be dragged
around and dropped anywhere you put it. Any
pulling on the dog's collar will cause out of control
behavior.

It's called the opposition reflex, positive thigmotaxis.
Now, when accidents happen, how do you deal with
this? It's real simple, but you have to not let the dog
see your reaction, or he'll still be "rewarded" for the
"crime."

Ignore the incident. Walk right past the "mistake."

It may not have been a mistake, and you can't
call your physical or verbal attention into the
problem without creating more difficulty for yourself.

Prearrange a soda can with six pennies in it, in a
convenient central location. The can must be picked
up silently and unobtrusively, casually. In the
presence of the dog, walk by the "dirty deed."

You should just ask, "what's that?" in a calm,
curious tone as you SUBTLY drop the can next
to the spot and continue about some other
business, without breaking stride or glaring
at the dog or saying ANYTHING further.

That's HOWE you'll address any chewing or
other damage. Continue doing something else
for a moment (like open the window), and then
ask the pup if he'd like to do something like go
outside, or anything to get him out of the way
so that you may clean the spot and retrieve
the can without him observing and hearing
you cuss under your breath about the mess
and extra work.

When the dog returns to that room with you, he's
going to look at the spot, and look back up at you.

You must tell him he is a good boy, and sound like
you really mean it. This will blow the dog's mind,
and will render his negative attention getting
device that he's using against you, useless.

With a couple examples of this, the dog will begin
to search forotherwaystocommandyourattention.

Hopefully, he will pick a positive attention getting
device. If not, don't worry about that, just address
the behavior according to the techniques, and
break each in turn, based on their importance to
your lifestyle.

All dogs need attention. What you need to do,
is give him that attention prior to the dog getting
into trouble.

Any time the dog makes even brief eye contact,
or glances out of the corner of his eye at you,
that moment requires prolonged (5-15 seconds)
of non physical praise unless he's at your side,
and then you may pat him if you like.

8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover

When your dog presents you with inappropriate
displays of dominant behavior, many behaviorists,
trainers, and veterinarians will recommend the
Alpha Rollover as a remedy.

WRONG! The Alpha Rollover as it is performed
is a forceful, negative, punishing experience,
administered by dogs and wolves, to dogs and
wolves. Mimicked by humans, we are poorly
equipped to fulfill the life and death reality
expressed in nature, and this sets both man
and beast up for another fall from grace.

Who in their right mind is going to attempt to mimic
the behavior of two dogs challenging each other
aggressively for dominance in the pack hierarchy?

And, if our human stooge does get the upper hand,
what shall he do with the loser? Perhaps sink his
teeth into the loser's throat, glaring and growling
"No!" Perhaps he will remain in this posture until
his poor, frightened little dog, belly up, flanks
exposed, urinating all over, gets big enough to
turn the tables?

I've never seen this technique successfully done
on a mature Great Dane or St. Bernard, although
I have often seen the results in mature dogs that
had this practice performed on them when they
were little.

They are the sorts that have problems only with
the alpha in his life. Others are not considered
a challenge worth confronting. Of course, you
as a human, would be told to grab the sides of
your dogs throat with both hands, force him onto
his back, stare into his face, and growl "No!" until
he goes limp into submission.

While this is definitely a display of your dominance
over him and in a language he can understand,
it is perceived as a challenge, which makes this
a very dangerous move that frequently backfires,
inviting a sneak attack in retaliation at some point
when the dog feels he has the upper hand.

In nature, this challenge might go on every season,
until the alpha is no longer able to continue this
winning streak. Then, the former alpha goes off
alone, or to the rear of the pack if he's lucky.

Alpha Rollover

>From watching mother dogs with their puppies,
we have learned the correct way to use a different
version of the Alpha Rollover as a way to cement
the appropriate dominant/ submissive relationship
between you and your dog. A mom dog, when
allowed to raise her pups for several months,
not just six weeks, will be seen standing over
a resting puppy and chewing on the side of its
neck, up behind the ears with her front teeth
(as though flea-biting).

Pups enjoy the affectionate encounter, and usually
go belly up, relaxed and happy. She is saying,
"I'm your elder, and because you respect my
authority, I make you feel good." We humans can
use the same technique and get the same results.

Approach your dog when he is stretched out on
his side, relaxed and content. Do not force him
into this position, and don't startle him if he's
asleep.

Stand over him, bend down, and scratch him
behind the ear. If he rolls over offering you his
belly, that's all you need to do. Tell him he's a
good boy, and walk off before he gets up.

Mission accomplished! No force, no punishment,
no negativity. Remember, your dog is going to
model your behavior and act in kind.

You set the standard for good behaviors by demonstration.

9. Separation Anxiety / Bedtime Calming Surrogate Toy Technique

(Howling, Barking, Whining, Chewing, Messing
Stuff Up When You Go Out!)

If all of our techniques and advice have been
followed correctly, there is no obvious reason
your dog should undergo stress just because
he's home alone.

Although most dogs (and people) prefer not to be
alone, there's never any excuse why your dog
should ever do anything other than what you
desire, being his pack leader.

If he gets nervous just because you are away,
that implies something is amiss. The techniques
articulated in the obedience section under "four
step heeling pattern exercise" will instill in him
a sense of self-confidence that will override his
boogey man.

Separation anxiety has NOTHIN to do with
separation, it's got to do with NO CONTROLLER
to issue commands and corrections to keep him
out of more serious trouble. That's HOWE COME
they chew when the "boss" is away.

But we have another secret to share! Try this
before laughing. Like your dog, we don't like to
the laughed at! Say "good bye" to an article of
his, maybe a toy or a bone.

Do this last after saying goodbye to him. Make
a big fuss over this article, explaining that you've
got to go, and that you expect "it" to behave while
your gone.

Put it down, without looking at your dog, and go.

Upon your return, search for and find this article
prior to speaking to or in a manner addressing
your dog, even if he is jumping up and down to
say hello. Just ignore him until this procedure is
finished. Pick "it" up and exuberantly explain HOWE
much you've missed "its" company while you've been
absent, and how pleased you are that "it" has been
SO good while you've been away.

Then you may look at and address your dog,
regardless of any damage or destruction he's
imposed, and tell him he's been good too, and
that you've missed him.

Ignore any damage he might have caused in your absence.

This is effective, and will probably "blow his mind."

The next time you need to go out, he's going to try
to emulate the behavior of this inanimate object.

Now you understand this procedure must be done
for four consecutive occasions. Do this on a
couple of brief absences, and you'll see the
problem disappear.

Of course, we do have a technique using sound
to correct any misbehavior that might occur in your
absence. Upon your return, disregard any damage.
Leave your attitude outside. Don't gasp, sigh,
swear, or show any negative emotion.

Say hello, as you should ordinarily, and before
touching any damaged or soiled area, search for
one of those cans. Picking it up very carefully so
as to not create any sound, walk past the "bad
spot" and casually point toward it and ask "What's
that?" as you drop the can next to it, as you
continue to go about your business not relative
to this incident.

Put your dog out of sight while you clean or repair
any damage.

When you're done cleaning and you've invited
him back in, he's going to look at that area and
look up at you. Your going to tell him what a good
dog he is, even though he wasn't. This will "blow
his mind." He's going to wonder, "What can I do
to get your attention?"

9A. The Soggy Potato Chip Theory

Here's something that's probably been funded by
our federal government, for probably zillions of
dollars in grant money, to some big shots at one
of our more prestigious universities.

This psychological study explores the idea that
given two bowls of potato chips at a party, one
bowl being nice and fresh, the other being old
and soggy, that people invited to this party will
refrain from eating the soggy chips, until all of
the fresh ones have been eaten.

With more time, and the absence of any more
fresh chips, the soggy ones will be eaten just
the same!

The experiment boils down to the hypothesis that
"lacking positive attention, we will substitute less
desired behavior to fill the void." Go figure.

Nonetheless, it's true. Lacking positive attention,
your pet will do something negative in order to
get the amount of attention he requires.

Your job is to insure that you give proper attention
thereby avoiding the negative attention-getting
devices that your pet may employ against you.

Don't let your attitude or your temper be seen,
as this will be determined by your pet to be the
most effective way in which to get all of the
attention he wants.

Most of the difficulties we have with our pets are
as a result of our own resistance to doing what
we now know is correct. Any time your dog can
get you to stop in your tracks, and command
100% of your undivided negative attention, you
have just inadvertently taught him how to
manipulate you.

Don't make yourself a Victim!

Each time your dog looks at you, even fleetingly,
requires a positive verbal response, to appease
his need for emotional contact with you.

THE WITS' END DOG TRAINING METHOD GLOSSARY:

ESCHEW OBFUSCATION: That's what we're
trying to do, to avoid complicating matters, to
clarify the terminology, without confusing psychobabble.

But if you would like a little bit of psycho type talk,
the following should do it for you. There is plenty
of good information in this list, but there is no
need to worry about the language in the etiology
of behavior, any more than what is already in
the text above.

ETIOLOGY: The study of causative factors creating
symptoms. DOGS DON'T DO THINGS WITHOUT
REASONS.

REASONS: Those reasons may not be obvious
to you, but if you looked at life from a dog's point
of view, it would be evident. We'll do that later.

But first, when your dog is disruptive, what gets
all your attention is its behavior. Don't worry about
the misbehavior; find the cause.

As we solve one problem, another will surface
in its place. As we become focused on the
misbehaviors, our attention further compounds
the problem.

In fact, any attention or reaction to misbehavior
can vicariously reward the dog.

EXAMPLE; "My dog barks every time I'm on the
phone." This always starts a cycle of disruption.
Any time your dog can break your routine, and
command 100% OF YOUR UNDIVIDED
ATTENTION, HE WINS.

SOLUTION: DON'T FALL VICTIM to these negative
attention-getting devices. Don't engage in a shouting
match. Break the cycle subtly, with distraction
techniques as interruptions, and, as always, follow
up with immediate, non-physical praise.

The most common cause of problems is the
need for DIRECTED ATTENTION.

Unstructured love and attention alone won't suffice.
Just exercising your dog cannot structure his thinking
to make him calm and accepting of changes in your
family life.

ALLELOMIMETIC BEHAVIOR: This comes from
the word "mimic." Your dog will copy your ACTIONS
and ATTITUDES. Monkey see; monkey do.
Monkey takes right after you!

That's right. Use this to your advantage. If you
handle roughly, he'll respond likewise. The more
concerned or nervous we are about our dogs
behavior, the more we MAY ACTUALLY COMPEL
SUCH BEHAVIOR TO BEGIN!

EXAMPLE: If your dog is about to growl at a
stranger and he sees you become upset, he doesn't
think we are worried about his actions, but those of
the stranger. Now he has a real cause to be wary.

SOLUTION: Use allelomimetic behavior to
demonstrate a sense of calm and trust. Don't
take chances, but the more relaxed you must appear.

Many times we see people try to calm their pet
by patting. As they become more nervous, they
pat faster and faster. This quick patting further
excites their pet.

Try to stroke the full length of the body at about
the normal rate of respiration.

POSITIVE THIGMOTAXIS: The opposition reflex.
This is the MOST DIFFICULT CAUSE OF
BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS, because we
AUTOMATICALLY FALL VICTIM TO IT.

EXAMPLE: As your dog pulls, you pull back. Now
you are both pulling. Next, you get frustrated and
mad. Then ALLELOMIMETIC BEHAVIOR COMES
INTO THE PICTURE, and your dog copies your
actions and attitudes and gets frustrated and mad.

What may have begun as a nice walk could soon
become a tense, frustrating situation. This anxiety,
without a vent or release mechanism, continues
long afterward.

SOLUTION: Don't allow pulling. When your dog pulls,
relieve the tension on the leash and praise immediately.

Do this consistently. We have just a split second to
praise him after releasing the tension on the lead or
the message will not get across.

Pulling on the leash, even as little as one pound
of pressure per square inch, for just a second
and a half is enough to trigger the opposition reflex.

That's just one small example. Here's the real
story on POSITIVE THIGMOTAXIS, the
OPPOSITION REFLEX: ANY PULLING OR EVEN
SLIGHT TENSION on your dog's collar, or
PUSHING OR PULLING ON HIS BODY can
SHUT OFF his ability to think and or listen to you,
even while praising him.

Like when you might ask him to sit, and then reach
back to place him, he may just stop going into
position. Look at it like this: Your dog's first
obligation is to oppose you. It's built in. Once
he understands the object of your desire, forget it!

He is naturally obligated to do EXACTLY OPPOSITE....

Physical opposition, say as you reach for his
collar while greeting a guest at the door, will cause
exactly the behavior you wanted to avoid. Next,
as he becomes familiar with your hand coming
out to restrain him, he consciously goes faster
to avoid being restrained.

Physical opposition, as you try to prevent jumping
or bolting, or even vocal opposition as you shout
to prevent whining or barking or fighting, can trigger
the opposition reflex, compelling the undesirable
behavior to begin.

In just mom entsyourdogcanlearntoout-maneuveryou.

This physical opposition soon becomes a mental
opposition. Learn to control without restraint or
confronting.

Forced restraint or forced control will always defeat
its own purpose. It's like trying to grab a handful
of water... Try to grab a fistful of water, and all
you will get is a wet hand. Scoop gently, and you
could empty the whole basin.

Vocal opposition, or shouting, needs further mention.

We see this quite often, especially when people try
to prevent fighting or aggression. The first thing they
usually do is express panic by screaming. Just think
of how your dog might copy this.

HOW CAN WE BREAK POSITIVE THIGMOTAXIS?

Four properly timed interruptions! WITH PRAISE!

VISUAL-ORAL REFLEX: Just as with "Wiley Coyote,"
compelled to catch the Road Runner, he cannot stop
to think. He sees the Road Runner, cuts the string to
the anvil, and instead of waiting, he is compelled to
catch him.

The consequences of this move are not thought
out. Strictly reflex. Let's look at this again. Your
dog sees a fly overhead, and just snaps him out
of the air. This action is not thought out. It goes
from the eye right through the right side of his
brain, to catching it in the air.

That's VISUAL-ORAL REFLEX. What if it were
a hornet? Same thing, but with different
consequences... He'd find out too late.

HOWE about when you see a fly? Most likely
you see it and think: You want to grab the fly
swatter, make sure the fly isn't on the expensive
drapes, and simply send it on to a higher level
of existence. The thought process is done with
the left side of the brain. That's why you may miss.

You have to think to aim. No reflex.

HOW CAN WE BREAK THE VISUAL-ORAL REFLEX?

Four properly timed interruptions! WITH PRAISE!

SOMATIC MEMORY: Unconscious, automatic,
involuntary, natural reflex. Just as a spring or
curl regains its shape. Most often, your dog
does not think about his actions, just like "Wiley
Coyote," he doesn't stop to think out the
consequences of his actions. Strictly reflex.

He sees a door, he's gone. He sees you, he
jumps. He sees a cat, he's gone. If so much
K-9 behavior were reflexive, wouldn't it be fair
to believe that he does not understand that his
behavior is wrong?

How could you correct him if he doesn't even
think he'd done anything wrong?

HOW CAN WE BREAK SOMATIC MEMORY?

Four properly timed interruptions! WITH PRAISE!

SURVIVAL INSTINCT: The oral desire.

Your dog is programmed to do what it must to
insure the survival of itself and its species.

That's one powerful tool that is often overlooked
as a training aid. Most trainers utilize this with
food bribes. To get results at any price is their
motivation.

Other aspects of survival instinct can be more
successfully employed. At some point bribery
will cause trouble, as with each treat, survival
instinct comes into play.

Soon your dog's appreciation level of you is
lowered from a mind appreciation to the gut level.

When your dog would rather go to his food than
you, look out!

Pack mentality is one manifestation of survival
instinct. Your dog looks upon his family as his
"pack." We can manipulate this instinct, or be
victimized by it.

"Checking back," which is a familiar term with
hunters, is a sideways glance to keep from
straying too far from the hunter, or in our case,
the pack or family. Praise when you see your
dog "checking back," and he will move in closer.

If he forges on ahead, turn and he will "check back"
on you. If you keep moving away he will turn to follow.
Praise him and he will continue. Just don't get caught
checking back on him, or he will expect you to follow.

This principle will be used effectively in our program later.

Symptoms of behavior, good as well as bad,
may be attributed to survival instinct. These
symptoms may be manifested outwardly or inwardly.

Over protectiveness or cowering could be
examples of very closely related but opposite
ways of dealing with circumstances of the environment.

They are often inter-changeable within the same individual.

Other symptoms of a self-concerned rigid nature
could be compulsive scratching, paw licking side
or leg sucking, hiding, balking, withdrawal, cowering,
and submissive urination.

EXAMPLE: Fear biters can be made to be aggressive
biters. "My dog bites/shies out of fear when strangers
try to pat him."

SOLUTION: WARNING!!! Don't try this without our
professional guidance!!! (This graphic solution is
just one of several possibilities.) Teach the dog to
bite on command, thus building confidence,
overcoming shyness or fear.

HOW CAN WE BREAK ANY OF THESE BEHAVIORS?

Four properly timed interruptions! WITH PRAISE!

CHAINED DOG SYNDROME/BARRIER FRUSTRATION:

Often for convenience, but frequently because
of lack of proper control, we must tie or otherwise
restrict our pets.

The barrier, crate or chain that is used causes a
natural frustration, because everything is out of reach.

This can cause stress, which can result in serious
behavior problems, even extreme viciousness.

This condition needs further mention. It is natural
for most dogs to become very protective or territorial
about the area of their confinement or tie out.

Never allow strangers to greet or pat a dog while
tied out or confined in a run or crate.

HOWE can we restrain a dog on a chain or behind
a barrier without risking difficulty? Either remove the
source of stimulation, such as keeping him out of sight
and/or hearing of children, guests, etc., or work to
break the cycle of over-stimulation.

EXAMPLE: "I crate my puppy during the day when
I'm at work. He seems fine, but gets really upset
when we're home and have to put him inside."

SOLUTION: Use the distraction techniques
contained herein to break the barrier frustration
syndrome.

HOW CAN WE BREAK THE CYCLE OF OVER-STIMULATION?

Four properly timed interruptions! WITH PRAISE!

MALINGER/SUBTERFUGE: To pretend injury or
illness in order to avoid responsibility or work; a
scam or ploy to avoid doing something. Dogs are
great, even witty when it comes to thinking up
ways to avoid or get out of doing what you want.

EXAMPLE: "Every time I try to train my dog, he
becomes 'lame,' like the old 'war injury.'"

SOLUTION:

Make sure there is nothing wrong, start to train,
and when that old affliction appears, say "You
poor baby, I hate to see you so lame. Let's
quit this work stuff and we'll take a ride and
buy you an ice cream."

As soon as "old sooner" jumps for joy and heads
for the car, you've caught him "FLAGRANTE
DELICTO." Point it right out to him and really rub
it in. Dogs don't like to be made fun of... the
embarrassment might cause a good laugh!

SEPARATION ANXIETY:

When you leave, your dog may become worried
that you may not return. Or, because while
you-are-gone, a visitor or disturbance of some
sort may have come by--- causing a tense
disruption.

EXAMPLE: "Every time I go out, my dog barks/whines,
chews things, soils the house, etc. He's vindictive.
He does it on purpose! I can't leave him alone!
I can tell he knows he's done wrong just by the
look on his face!"

SOLUTION: There could be several factors involved.
If a dog is indiscriminately relieving himself in the
house while you are gone, it could be caused by
stress if you have been in the habit of scolding
him for any mischief he had done in the past.

That could make him nervous enough that he
needs to relieve himself every time you go out.

Or, it might be the result of barrier frustration,
or just a negative attention getting device
satisfied by your response upon return.

Don't fall victim to these tactics. Don't scold
or make an issue out of these problems.

To cure separation anxiety, refer to the distraction
technique in the section, "Using Sound to Correct
Bad Behavior."

BARKING/BITING/CHEWING: The command
"OUT" is used to stop any behavior with the
mouth. As we have discussed, the word "OUT"
might ring "Pavlov's bell" if he was ever to have
been corrected while with his mom and littermates.

When you use it to stop any misbehavior,
especially something with the mouth, like
chewing, aggressiveness or barking, it may
get an instantaneous response.

One problem we often see is the dog's natural
desire to protect his home and family being
thwarted by his owners desire to raise him in
a friendly atmosphere.

If, at the onset of each alarm the dog sounds,
he is reprimanded for barking or showing aggression,
then he may become overly anxious due to never
having been validated for what he thinks is his
obligation to protect the home.

EXAMPLE: "My dog barks at every sound he
hears on the street, or when company comes.
He's totally out of control. He won't shut up."

SOLUTION: As soon as he starts to bark, praise him.

This will validate him for doing a good job; one
that he thinks is expected of him. Ask him "what's
that?" and go look. Next, tell him "Out, it's O.K.,
friends." Upon commencement of his next bark,
use the sound distraction technique. If that fails,
ask him to come.

This should work very quickly to bring him under control.

CHEWING/RAIDING TRASH CANS/STEALING FOOD:

These are in the same category as "BARKING/
BITING/CHEWING" because they involve the
mouth and may occur in your presence or behind
your back.

The solution lies in breaking the misbehavior
rather than avoiding the problem by means of
hiding food out of reach or moving the trash
can.

Don't reinforce the problem by becoming involved
with it. If it occurs in your presence, address it,
as you will any other behavior problem by utilizing
the sound distraction techniques. Set aside some
time to recreate and solve the problem.

If this occurs when you are not there, here is
what should happen:

EXAMPLE: You come home and the dog has
chewed the woodwork, bedspread, shoes,
trashcan, etc.

SOLUTION: Use the technique for curing separation
anxiety to prevent this from happening. When it
happens, use the sound correction for dealing
with problems after the fact, like this.

Don't become part of the problem by making a
big scene out of it. The damage is already done.

Simply go over and subtly pick up a can, and
casually walk over to the damaged area, calmly
ask, "What's that?" as you drop the can and
casually walk away, without speaking.

Clean up the damage when he is not in sight.
The can sounding without praise will emphatically
tell him he shouldn't have done that, and you
won't be creating further problems by becoming
involved. Often, just one correction like this is
enough to solve the problem.

BALKING/SHYING/OBSTACLES:

Anyone would balk or become nervous when faced
with an unusual or frightening obstacle. One of the
biggest problems we have when the dog on leash
balks or shies away from something is that we,
through our body language or behavior reinforce
the dogs fear about the situation.

If you negotiate an obstacle calmly and smoothly,
the dog will most likely follow your lead and continue
through it with little difficulty.

Using proper handling techniques with the lead,
and the subtle use of allelomimetic behavior,
even long ingrained phobias can be overcome
in just minutes.

The bonding and sense of security that come
with being properly on command can reassure
and give confidence to even the most insecure
animal.

EXAMPLE: "My dog is afraid to get into the car,
elevator, boat ramp, etc."

SOLUTION: This is very common, and a major
problem if it is your dog that won't go into the
car or otherwise.

Usually the problem starts when he first balks,
by the handler pulling on the leash and trying to
force him inside.

REMEMBER... Any pushing or pulling on the
dog's collar will trigger positive thigmotaxis,
the opposition reflex, thus compelling exactly
the behavior you wanted to avoid.

Handle the lead properly and ask him to go inside.

Face the direction you want him to go, and move
forward. Praise immediately. If he balks, repeat
the command with sound and praise again.

Usually it requires no more than two repetitions.

SIBLING RIVALRY: SIBLING RIVALRY???

YES. When you have more than one pet, or when
you have children, this can be a big problem.

If you scold one sibling (children included) in front
of the other(s), a natural resentment or jealousy
is instigated. This is common with any peer group,
adults as well, office workers, etc.

The others take this as an opportunity to follow
your lead and use their authority to further
humiliate or even attack the "trouble maker."

Given that scolding is a poor example of proper
discipline, it need not be mentioned at this point.

EXAMPLE: "My dogs fight if they have a bone,
(or food, or a pat, etc.)."

SOLUTION: Set the example of proper leadership
and don't engage in verbal arguments as our
attitude will only be copied. And don't show physical
attention to jealous dogs in front of each other.

Use all of these training techniques as a guide.

When you see an argument beginning, resort to
praise. Praise? Yes. This will always be your first
response to diffuse and solve a problem.

As always, avoid physical praise, as it will in this
case create worse jealousy. If proper discipline
and leadership are expressed, the dogs do not
have an option to fight among themselves.

COMMUNICATION: Dogs can communicate in a
variety of interesting ways. They often have a
pretty good sense of humor, and are often caught
in lies and deception. Dogs need not be as obvious
as to bark to make known their wishes.

Sometimes, growling may only be an effort at
vocalization, with no malice intended. Subtle
attempts, like maybe a shuffle of feet, a wrinkle
on the face or brow, panting or chatter of teeth,
in the dog's mind, are clear-cut messages.

Take notice and he will do the rest. He will be
consistent, although the same signals/signs/gestures
may apply to several needs.

EXAMPLE: Your dog chatters his teeth. Look at
him and say, "Good boy, what do you want?"

He may say, "It's about time you noticed me!"

SOLUTION: Ignore his sarcasm. Ask if he wants
to do this, that, or the other thing, and when he
gives a big sigh, DO IT!

I've quoted other dog trainers and authors on
dog behavior in the misstatement that "dogs don't
think." In light of the fact that I've also have quoted
and subverted most of their training techniques as
nonsensical and ineffective, let's not get boggled
down in semantics.

My philosophy is based on experience and observation:

The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems
are learned qualities. By challenging our dogs to
think, they develop the areas of the brain where
thinking, rationalizing and solving problems occur.

DOMINANCE: Your dog needs dominance, MENTALLY,
NOT PHYSICALLY.

Lacking proper direction, your dog must become
dominant. It is survival. In the human family, as
he expresses dominance, he realizes something
is drastically wrong.

This causes insecurity and frustration, so any
change in the household becomes intolerable.

Dogs have many different ways of expressing
dominance, in subtle yet physical ways. Their
objective may not be really to take over, but be
aware that the casual standing on your foot may
actually be one of their sly attempts at self-expression.

Forewarned is forearmed.

These attempts may be as subtle as nudging or
covering you with a paw or chin, to actually mounting.
In a mature dog, this could lead to more aggressive
behavior.

When your dog comes over with a ball in his mouth,
and drops it at your feet, and you stop to pick it up,
he just established control.

Don't fall into his subtle trap.

Tell him he has to wait. Then, after a couple of
minutes, when you pick it up, ask him if he wants
to play ball. He's going to think, "How did you know
I wanted to do that?" Then, it will be you initiating
the lead, setting the role for him to follow.

10A. State Conditioned Learning

State Conditioned Learning is when we learn a
particular skill under a particular circumstance or
setting.

This may mean we may not have that behavior
or skill readily available to the reflexive or kinesthetic
memory system, when we want to access that
learned skill, behavior, or information, in another
situation or setting, until it is GENERALIZED.

In other words, every aspect of the environment
and circumstances surrounding a learning situation
is "linked" to the behavior or information we are
studying.

For example, a college student studying for exams
might drink excessive amounts of coffee, or have
a couple of beers while studying. The next morning
during the exam, the information learned while in
the state of mind accessed while studying under
the influence of caffeine or alcohol, is NOT
ACCESSIBLE to the student, unless opened up,
with the same amount of caffeine or alcohol as
used during the learning process the night before.

That's HOWE COME it's often recommended to
study and take notes with the exact same pen
you'll be using to take an exam.

These SMALL CRITERIA add up to BIG ADVANTAGES
or BIG LOSSES, when it comes down to the nut cutting.

As dog trainers, it is important to bring as many of
the peripheral attributes of the learning environment
into play, when trying to repeat a learned behavior
in another setting or circumstance.

This USUALLY REQUIRES repetition of the learning
process in four different environments, to GENERALIZE
the idea or behavior.

Scientific conditioning is enhanced, and memory
is more easily accessed, when more details are
added to the learning situation.

Hence. the more generalized the information or
behavior will become.

That's why when training your dog, it BEHOOVES
YOU to use both hand signals and voice commands
AT THE SAME TIME.

This will create more "memory locator tags" to the
learned behavior. Pulling down any ONE memory
locator tag pulls down ALL of the associated memory.

Distractions are considered by MOST trainers to
be a detriment in the early stages of training.

THAT'S INSANE.

Learning with many stimuli of the environment
makes for a more quickly and deeply ingrained
behavior.

Many behaviors are what we call state dependent,
i.e., depending on the circumstances and environment
we've learned something in, repeating or eliminating
as many similar but different stimuli mimicking the first
instance the behavior was elicited, will facilitate
generalizing the behavior and will make it happen for you...

Bear in mind, the "territory" extends well beyond
the physical plane.

The state of mind, or emotional conditions at the
time the behavior was learned, will also have the
same usefulness, if we recognize and access or
avoid accessing, such states of mind.

This is HOWE COME so many of our "expert"
trainers here encounter failure in the trial ring,
because they are NOT ALLOWED to use the
force and corrections they've used while training
the dog initially. They're not accessing that same
state of fearfulness or intimidation in the dog's mind
where the lessons have been stored.

10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct

Everyone agrees dogs are territorial creatures
of habit, that's HOWE COME we can train them.

The environment they are in has much bearing on
HOWE the dog will respond to a stimulus, based
on his appreciation of the area as "his territory"
or "his or toy"his people," etc., as well as his past
habits regarding those behaviors, such as door
charging or bolting, toy and food guarding,
protectiveness, aggression, barking, and just about
every command or issue you'll always need to deal with.

These behaviors are reinforced in his environment
or territory, and therefore may not be EZ to change
without changing his environment.

Removing the dog from his familiar territory, or
taking him to "neutral grounds" as is often
recommended for introducing a dog to get along
with a new dog in your home, or taking the dog to
a different area to train, if he has difficulty maintaining
control in his own area, is the same idea as I'm
getting at here...

Keep in mind that when we teach a command
or break a habit, we need to generalize the area.
That's HOWE COME taking a dog to neutral territory
to meet and new dog works, because we've got no
habituated or other proprietary issues to consider.

Let's say your dog bolts or charges through, or
sneaks out the front door. He's already got a
history of doing that, and has a history of not
coming back once he's made the break.

Or let's say, you've got a dog who guards her
bone or toy or any other object, and won't let
you remove it.

Or maybe we've got a dog who's just very protective
of guests coming in the home or backyard. Every
incident you've encountered with these behaviors
has further reinforced the behaviors, so by the
time you recognize that you've got to address
the issues, they're already long ingrained, and
it's likely to take more effort to retrain or break
the habits.

So, when we begin to address a behavior, taking
the dog out of his familiar territory will break much
of his reflexive behaviors based on his past
experiences with those behaviors.

Let's say we're talking about the dog bolting out
the front door. If we attempt to break him of going
through your front door where he is already
habituated to bolting through on occasion, we
would be complicating our efforts were we to begin
with teaching the concept of NOT bolting through
doors using his own front door as a starting point.

Take the dog out of the environment he is familiar
with, and the habit will no longer have a "trigger"
associated with it.

Try working the exercise from a neutral territory,
maybe another door in another room of your house.

Maybe ask a friend whom the dog is not familiar
with their home, if you can visit for an hour with
your dog to teach him not to go out of the door.

That will give you a strong likelihood that you can
quickly and easily change his approach to thinking
about doors in general. After just a few demonstrations
to the dog, any door is just a door, not to be to
challenged passed or through without permission.

The same approach would be effective for teaching
a shy or aggressive dog to accept guests in the house.

If he's not aggressive toward people when he's
outside at the park, then it makes sense the
reason he'd be aggressive in his own back yard
or inside his house, is because he is territorially
protecting his environment.

Taking him into another similar but different
environment, will likely negate his sense of
ownership, and diminish his past reinforcement
of the protective behavior..., so that new behaviors
can be conditioned without the protective thoughts
that have been associated and reflexes conditioned
over time.

Same goes for the toy or bone or food guarding.
He's likely to have reflexive behaviors to someone
trying to touch his dish or bone.

Taking him to neutral territory, like maybe feeding
him in another room while initially working with
taking the dish or article away from him in an
environment he is not familiar with, will negate
his past behavior and his reinforced successes
at keeping the object.

Example: if your dog is possessive of his bone,
take three bones with you on a somewhat long
walk. Give him one as you're casually moving
along, and awhile later as you continue walking,
offer him the second, and keep moving slowly
forward. He's likely to want to give you the first
to get the new one, and so forth. Then, go to
another environment the next time and do the same.

Many behaviors are what we call state dependent,
i.e., depending on the circumstances and environment
in which we've learned something.

Repeating or eliminating as many similar but
different stimuli mimicking the first instance the
behavior was elicited, will facilitate generalizing
the behavior and will make it happen for you...

Bear in mind, this "territory" extends well beyond
the physical plane. The state of mind, or emotional
conditions at the time the behavior was learned,
will also have the same usefulness, if we recognize
and access or avoid accessing, such states of mind...

10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind

Here's a valuable tool you may use on your dogs,
your mates, your children, your employee's, anyone,
anytime, anywhere at all.

We're going to look at setting or linking a favorable
state of mind to a cue of some sort, and triggering
that state of mind, when circumstances are appropriate
or when changing the state of mind of our dogs,
children, mates, etc., is desirable.

We may use any kind of a cue, signal, sound,
touch, whatever, just so long as it is consistent
and EXACT, for use with the same state of mind
we are looking to access.

Additionally, we may link several states of mind
to each other, and trip them one at a time in
succession, to develop a highly charged thought pattern.

Here's HOWE it works. Picture a beautiful scenario.
Develop that thought to the extent you actually feel
you are there on that beach or mountain top.

When you think you can smell the sea breeze or
mountain air, touch a spot on your body that you
will always use to access that state of mind.

Next, add a favorite companion or other accouterment,
and when that thought is fully developed, touch another
spot to use as a trigger point. Continue to add
mental stimuli to this visualization technique.

Be sure you only set the trigger point when each
thought is fully visualized and felt. Use all of your
senses during this visualization and anchoring process.

Then, take a break, think about something totally
different. Then repeat the exercise being sure
to use the correct scenarios with the corresponding
trigger points, with as much joy and pleasure as you
can muster.

Repeat the process a few times. The benefit is
about to be seen, as you try to use this conditioned
state of mind for a practical purpose.

Perhaps use it to dispose of a though or feeling
of something distasteful or fearful, a boogyman,
if you will. When you reach that thought of the
"boogeyman," trigger the first point, and proceed
to the next, and then the next.

You'll feel the stressor collapse, you'll find yourself
no longer accessing the state of dread, the next
time this boogyman raises it's ugly head.

And if it ever does, just touch the anchor points
and they'll collapse it once again.

You can use this technique to overcome any kind
of fears or phobias or aggression your dog has.

To use this on your dog, you've got to catch him in
the act of REALLY enjoying himself or really
occupied in a state of mind, to install the triggers.

Just be sure to condition the state of mind using
the exact same trigger mechanisms linking one
or more drives or emotions to carry the idea over
into a command.

Do that with praise and timing in conjunction with
the commands, even if the dog has made a mistake.

He is obligated to "catch up" with the flow, or be left
out of the excitement.

Do that by praising every eye contact, even if it's
only a momentary glance.

When that dog looks over at you, you gotta be
praising him like he did something great. That
way, the dog is always expecting lots of positive
attention, and he knows howe to get it when he
starts feeling like doing something like getting into
mischief... It's a safe way the dog can pull your
strings, and not interrupt your routine to get some
attention.

The praise can be substituted with a hand signal
like the international O.K. sign, or even a wink.
My dogs will wink at me when they want to get
cute or make me laugh...

10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimeter Training

I've got my dogs behind a four foot fence. They'll
jump that fence as though it weren't there at all.
The fence doesn't keep them in, their training does.

If I want them to hop the fence, no problem. My
front windows are open. They can just walk right
through, if they want. Why don't they just go?

I want them to stay, that's why they don't split.

Use the sound distraction and praise technique
to teach your dog your borders. Teach him not to
go within three feet of the fence ANYWHERE in
the yard.

You'll need to be judicious about alternating the
direction of the sound, never twice in succession
from the same direction. And you'll need to be
cautious about NOT accidentally making a sound.

If you should (and you probably will) accidentally
create a sound, THAT COUNTS. FOLLOW the
technique and use that accidental sound as though
it were intentional...don't break the progression of
events, even from one day to the next.

Casually walk about the yard, and as the dog
approaches the three foot border, create the
sound and praise profusely for five to fifteen
seconds as you step back, and then casually
move on towards that spot again, and repeat.

Go through the yard randomly approaching the
borders and make the sound from you on one
occasion, and from the ground in front of him
on the next occasion.

Make the sound at a spot praising and stepping
back ALL AT THE SAME TIME, and move forward
and repeat and continue working each spot straight
on, back and forth, until she no longer approaches
that spot as you approach it.

Go round like that addressing each spot where he
violates the three foot border until he won't cross
the border.

BE SURE TO PRAISE WHEN HE RECOGNIZES
THAT SPOT AND THINKS OF GOING OVER IT...
don't TRY to make him violate it, let him attempt
to trespass on his own

Increase your speed as you develop confidence
in the technique... then, when you KNOW he won't
violate the spot while you're in the yard with her,
leave him there, and go outside the fence and
work the same routine, luring him to violate the
border ONLY BECAUSE YOU are approaching
the fence.

Once you see that he remains steady as you
move straight forward and back to "lure" him
forward into the fence WITHOUT ENCOURAGING
HIM to trespass, you are then ready to eyeball
him from inside the house or outside the fence,
until you know he won't go over the border.

Repeat the procedure a couple times a day for
a couple of days, and that's the end of that story.

If you did everything correctly, he won't challenge
the fence. For the future, observe him and at the
first sign that he is willing to violate the border,
repeat the procedure and you'll be fine.

Now, that's to teach him not to go out. What you
should do, in order to settle him so he has no
desire to go out, is to do the heeling pattern
exercise in part 2 of the manual.

It'll take you three or four short sessions to get
the exercise learned properly. Then, do a five
minute session daily or every other day for
about a week, and then once every three days
for a few weeks just to keep him balanced.

The heeling exercise is POWERFUL MEDICINE.
I've seen extremely nervous or shy dogs totally
overcome their phobias with ONLY that as a
remedy in about one weeks time...

THIS CONCLUDES PART ONE OF THE W.E.D.T.M. MANUAL

PART II

1. Obedience

We'll be approaching our obedience training program
as a piecemeal quilt puzzle; that is to say, that
any one point has got to fit within the entire context,
and as you develop skills, you may "mix and match"
commands to suit your needs or situation at that
moment.

But we do have a procedure that is very much
like the kind of steps you would follow as though
you were starting your car or computer system.

These steps are like your keys to your car or
password to your files. It's unlikely that your
dog, when trained, will listen to anyone that
does not approach the "control panel" to his
mind, without the "keys" imbedded in this
series of commands.

He'll understand that anyone asking business
of him is not approved, without "them keys."

Practice on a daily basis should not exceed four
minutes to accomplish the exercises. Practice
needs to be performed at least every second
day. With problem dogs, this is critical.

If you are using this training to suffice your dog's
emotional needs, whether it be anxiety from
separation, aggression, or stress from any source,
the benefits of this exercise will wear off in three
days, at least until some time down the road.

Also, dogs do tend to forget a lesson if it has not
been re-enforced for several days. After the initial
training period, practice may be limited to once a week.

When your dog becomes fully trained and his
behavior is not an issue or goal for improvement,
a brief exercise should be formally done once a
week, later once a month.

We are going to give your pet 100% of your
undivided positive attention, in an intense, four-
minute exercise, which will have the benefit of
exercising the dominant and submissive nature
of your dog's personality.

These "natures of your dog's personality" are
easily accessed through the positions and postures
in relationship to yourself, as you and your dog
perform your obedience routines.

Each position will elicit particular sorts of body
language from your dog (and vice versa, so act
natural).

If you pay close attention you can determine
how well or not your dog is relating to you.

Each exercise or command in the following text
will articulate what must be paid close attention,
and how to make this knowledge work for you
and your dog.

We have special routines to break stress and
tension, as well as methods to express dominance
and elicit and enforce strict, exacting discipline.
You will develop a feel for these as you progress
through this system. The Method GUARANTEES
total non physical control, but you've got to give
up forced control entirely or you'll be challenging
the dog and you'll learn the hard way..."I told you so."

Any time you are in doubt about what your next
move should be, just relax, take your time to
review in your mind the exercise you are performing,
and then execute the correct move.

Everything has a particular progression.

Admittedly, this is a complicated system. HOWEver,
there is no need to worry about mastering the
technique and psychology involved right away.

It will become very clear as you begin to workonit.
Just as we will expect your dog to learn something
new with practice, you too will develop a sense for
what we are doing, but only with practice.

You'll develop a feel for what we're doing. The
pieces fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, and, like
a jigsaw puzzle, you start by dumping the whole
thing out in front of you and then try to put it in
some sort of order.

Think of our method like that puzzle. Keep in mind
also that things change here, according to what
has been mastered.

2. Ask Your Dog To Work

We'll start with a preliminary command to set the
tone for our lesson. Ask your dog if he would like
to go to work.

Do so in an upbeat manner, with a questioning
tone, as you lean or step backward just a little bit,
praising all the while. (For more details on this,
see the "Hot and Cold" exercise, in Part I of the
W.E.D.T.M. Manual.)

We don't care if he wants to "go to work" or not.
He's going to, but we would do much better if he
were looking forward to enjoying it. This does
not mean we're going to play, because just as
soon as you finish this phrase "Do you want to
go to work? Good boy," you're going to follow
through with his next command to come to order.

2A. Back To Work

"Back to work," is his next command, it's rather
like the command "attention" in the military. It
functions as a tool we can utilize to command his
attention under emergency conditions as well as
for daily requests to come to order...

"Back to work" is to be followed in the same breath,
without pausing or hesitating, with the forthcoming
commands, while at the same time giving the hand
signals and foot signals.

It's going to seem much like rubbing your head and
patting your stomach at the same time.

There are several events that are going to take
place one after the other, quickly in succession.

Your hand signal and foot signal will coincide with
the voice commands. It's crucial that signals and
voice commands all coincide, as your dog will be
learning all of these at once.

2B. Stay

The "stay" command is very complicated. There
are two hand signals and a foot signal as well as,
of course, your voice command. It changes
depending on whether you are at the side or "heel"
position, or at a distance in front of him, or whether
you are leaving his side with him remaining behind,
or if you are returning toward him.

Don't worry about anything other than the hand
signal from the side at this point.

Leaving your dog on the stay command is covered
later. It's simple, but get used to the basics first.

Stay from the side is a sweeping motion with your
left hand coming forward, high from above your elbow,
fingers together, as if to touch the tip of your middle
finger to the top of your dogs nose, being careful
to keep your hand from breaking into your dogs
vision directly over his head. We don't need to be
close, just in the line of peripheral vision at about
15 degrees his snout. Give it high and forward
of your body.

Follow through by bringing your hand back up and
sweeping it around toward your chest, placing your
left wrist at your dog's right shoulder, as you place
your palm on his breast bone, as you pat him once
or twice, and continue into the "sit straight" (or "stand
straight" or "down straight") command, described below.

What I'm trying to show is the stay signal comes
in high in front and is brief.The hand then recedes high
in an arch towards the handler before coming into the
dog's chest parallel to his right shoulder.

The idea being that we don't want to lean over the
dog to set his chest, neck, and head. It's a defensive
position as some dogs may snap, that's why we're
calming them in the forthcoming moves.

2C. Sit From The Side

Sit from the side involves just the hand and voice
signals. The left palm comes up, until your elbow
is bent ninety degrees. In due course, all you'll
need to do is cup your palm. But for now, let's
make it easy for your dog to notice.

Sounds pretty easy, so let's throw in some body language.

Before your dog has completed any command in
these series, the next command in that series will
be issued. We will do this slowly, so that your dog
can think out what you are asking yet moving into
the next phase before the prior has been completed.

Not too slowly, but not too fast.

You're going to be leading and directing his attention,
rather than his body. His body will follow his attention
and thoughts.

When you are ready to begin the "return to heel
command," get a visual fix on a landmark, so as to
be sure to orient yourselves correctly after your
dog has completed sitting. At the beginning, we'll
not worry too much about this orientation, or for
that matter, any orientation, but it will quickly
become extremely important to be precise.

Your hand signal for "return to heel" is with your
left index finger, pointing to the ground just behind
your left side, as you look down and back, toward
where your finger is pointing.

Leaning your weight on your right foot, so as to
facilitate the movement of your left foot signal,
just about one half step backward, not too far
so as to lose balance, but enough to get your
dog inspired to move. This is an action command,
and the motion you use will help start your dog's
movement.

At the same time your left foot moves, your hand
signal and eyes will be pointing and moving in
sync with your foot, as your upper body twists,
just kind of a quarter turn left twist of your upper
body as your foot moves, and back to forward.

"Back to work, heel, good boy, nice dog, sit, stay,
good dog." That's your voice command to get him
to the return to heel position.

When this series has finished, and while you are
still saying "good dog," you'll need to pat him, just
once or twice on his chest, as you give him his
next command to "sit straight," and adjust his front
square at your side, by lifting his weight by his
breast bone, and move his front just a little, as
you help (actually cheat), by adjusting yourself
at the same time to be square at the heel position.

Next, run your hand from his breast bone up under
his throat, to his chin, at which point you'll repeat
your stay signal, as you run your hand down one
side of his body from the left shoulder down along
his ribs. Then the right side, then, to one front foot,
then the next. You'll see later.

2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel

The heel position means your dog's shoulders
must be parallel to your knees. Return to heel
is the means by which he arrives there.

Both commands are action words and require
movement on your part to teach your dog what
it means. The voice command for both tasks is
the same.

The movement of your left foot and the direction
you point your index finger and direct your eyes
do change, depending whether you are going to
move forward on the heel, or to have your dog
return at your side to resume the heel position.

It is imperative that your dog return to the heel
position in the manner described herein. Many
guides to training for the obedience ring,
schutzhund, and police dog training will permit
your dog to return to the heel position by moving
himself around behind the handler, coming in
toward your right side and around to your left,
from behind you.

Avoid this, as it is likely to create problems.
Likewise, if you allow your dog to "come" when
called, and resume his place at your side, you're
looking for trouble, although it is allowed in other
methods.

Every detail is important for matters only your
dog understands at this time!

The return to heel is done entirely on the left side.
If he circles into the left side in a clockwise direction,
he's giving us his dominant side. If he's turning
in a counterclockwise direction, he's looking up
at you ready to work willingly.

The come is important to cause a sense of
subordination and dominance in the front, and
partnership in the return to heel.

Familiarity breeds contempt...We want to keep
it formal to instill discipline.

The heel position is one of equality. It's as if you
were to go out to the field to hunt. You would heel
your dog to an area you want to search, and then
give him his opportunity to do his dog thing.

At the moment you send him off to search, he's
taken the position of leader. Once he makes his
find, he gives that job back to you. You fire, and
he's in charge again. He gets his bird, and brings
it back to you and gives it up to his leader.

Then he gets another chance to repeat this performance.
It's a 50/50 proposition. That's where we'd like to start.
Fair, 50/50. But first, we still have to finesse the
command sequence to get there.

Try this sequence without your dog, but with your
leash in your hands, and in the privacy of the
most comfortable place you can find. If you are
fortunate enough to have a friend or family member
interested enough to help out, give them the script
to follow, and have them read to you and supervise
the details.

When you're ready to try working this on your
dog, only try the command sequence once or
twice, and then tell him he's "free."

"You're free" is a command just as important
as heel or sit. It tells him he can relax. Make it
sound like the umpire who says, "Play ball!"

Don't forget to smile and say, "Good boy."

Review in your mind, how your dog took to this,
and how you performed your commands.

Don't worry about making your dog actually
perform his commands. We have plenty of time
to teach him, and you both are just getting used
to many different stimuli.

It's impossible for you to make mistakes at this time.

In other words, if your dog doesn't know what
you want, then he won't realize when you have
made a mistake. And besides, you're in charge,
and can make or break any rules you choose!

Starting and stopping this command sequence
is good exercise, as it is brief, and comfortable
for your dog. Feel free to ask him to "go back to
work, heel, sit, stay, good boy, sit straight,"
several times a day if you like, but only do it once
at each session, ending as always, with "You're free."

You may escape from any command sequence
only upon completion of that sequence. However,
you can escape any situation or command
sequence by asking your dog to "come."

Your "come"command has been described earlier
under "conditioned reflex." At that time, we were
only interested in the "come" command. Now, you
are going to learn to have your dog come and sit
in front of you, before returning to the heel position.

This sequence will always be followed exactly at
any time you issue the "come" command.

When your dog comes to you, he is subordinating
himself to you. When you ask him to sit in front
of you, you are dominating him. When you ask
him to return to heel, he's once again equal.

Use this!

When you ask your dog to return to heel, and
maybe he "snubs" you, just repeat the command
with sound followed by instant praise, on the
word heel.

Failing that, simply give up on that request, and
ask him to "come." You'll need to switch the lead
to your left hand, use the signal for come with
the right hand, and certainly be prepared to
enforce the come command with sound, if
you find it necessary to repeat the come command.

Work as quickly as you can, but take your time
to make sure the timing is correct. You should
begin to see apatterndevelopinghere.That
when the dog fails to perform a command the
next command is come.

2E. Sit From the Front

While working commands from the front of your
dog, do not practice the recall or come command,
until he is proficient with the other aspects of these
commands, or you'll create problems with all of
the following.

We have just learned the command "sit from the
side" or heel position, and, as with most commands,
each different position or orientation will appear to
your dog to be an altogether different command.

Even commands given from a different distance
than what has been familiar, is equally as difficult
as learning the command initially.

The hand signal is only slightly different, being
given with the right hand. As it was with the original
command from the side, we'll give a full upward
sweep of the hand, bringing it up from your side
by your leg, until the forearm is parallel to the
ground with the palm up.

Once he becomes familiar with your commands,
the signal can be diminished to just cupping your
hand briefly.

When you ask your dog to come, it is required
that he sit himself so he is directly in front of you,
his toes about 6 inches away from your toes. This
is a crucial element of establishing strict discipline.

It is a good barometer of how readily your dog is
willing to work for you. If he comes and sits directly
in front of you with his back toward you, this could
indicate several possibilities.

The first likelihood is that he is not willingly working
as your subordinate. In this case, he may be trying
to establish the 50/50 equality we discussed earlier
in the heel command. Remember, when he comes
and sits in front of you, he is looking up to you as
an appropriate authority figure and thereby
subordinating himself.

We know that dogs do not do things for no reason.
Therefore, if he has chosen to perform this command
incorrectly, it may be for reasons other than simply
to challenge your authority. Perhaps, in his opinion,
he has done this for security measures, and has
changed his orientation to your command.

Were that to be the case, we might allow this
discrepancy to permit him to observe the
suspected or perceived threat.

If that were the case, asking him to return to
heel would cause him to back himself into the
heel position, without taking his eyes off of the
front view. That would be O.K. under certain
circumstances.

Right now, we'll look at this as an example of
performing the command incorrectly due to
inexperience. This is why we have not yet
covered how to get your dog to sit.

It's important to understand that accomplishing
a command is not relevant to our agenda. So
first of all, you must hurry up and relax.

When we ask our dog to sit from any position,
it is our ultimate goal to get him to sit exactly
where we indicate. Therefore, whether he sits
or not, is secondary to our ultimate goal.

This is important mainly to enforce strict discipline.
In other words, we have the option to cause our
dog to work harder and harder to satisfy our request.

I'm trying to show the difference between what
we want for today Vs what we'll want in a few days.

Today it's only important to teach the sit command,
so wherever we get it, we're thrilled. In a couple of
days we'll only settle for exactly straight to the side
or in front, etc.

We will apply the knowledge and techniques on
which we've been working in order to format a
routine for training and temperament development.

This routine is the heeling pattern exercise, which
will give you the ability to exercise your dog's mind
in a manner that cannot be accomplished through
any other means. The heeling pattern will exercise
will balance the dominant and submissive nature of
your dog's personality, and it only requires about
four minutes of work.

3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE

Start your dog, as you always will, by showing him
the lead and asking him if he wants to go to work.
Follow through by telling him he's a good boy, and
then order him "Back to work," follow through with
heel, good boy, nice dog (to keep his attention),
and ask him to sit.

Remember now, that on the return-to-heel, your left
foot and index finger will be the signal or CUE, and
the movement of the left foot and hand, must coincide
with the voice command.

All of your weight must be on the right foot. As your
dog returns to the heel position he must return
counter clockwise on your left side, and square
himself to the heel position.

As in all of these exercises you must orient
yourselves by using a landmark in relationship
to the direction you are facing, and make sure
that your dog, when finished, is properly lined
up towards it. But let's not get ahead of ourselves.

If he refused to turn counter clockwise, that could
indicate a problem, such as an effort to resist
working properly for you. However, to be fair,
we must be certain this is the case. It's possible
that he is "left-handed." We'll see very shortly.

First, we must accomplish getting him to sit. We
expect your dog will not want to sit when you ask
him. While he is making the counter clockwise turn,
when his nose is pointing directly opposite of yours,
you will ask him to sit.

Do not wait for him to complete turning around, or
he will continue moving out of position. Follow
through with the stay signal (and voice command)
before he comes to a sit.

NOW we can work on the sit!

As you collect your lead by inching your way down
the half-length of it with your right hand, you may
extend your right arm with the elbow straightforward
*elbow locked and arm straight ahead. to take up
the extra slack and prevent his head from spinning
around.

Your left hand can reach back, as you shift your
weight on to your left foot, and put your middle
finger and thumb just in front of his hips. In this
manner you will be able to move with him if he
tries to move around. You can pivot to maintain
the heel position while negotiating the sit but you
must not walk from that spot.

You can control the front of your dog with the lead,
by gently applying alternating tension on the lead
as you gently touch without applying pressure, to
try to get him to flex his rear into the sitting position.

When he begins to flex to assume the sit, your
hand must come away from his rear, and follow
through with the stay signal. Do not try to push
him all the way down, and do not try to force him
into the position.

Just touch the middle finger and thumb in front
of the hip a for a moment till he pushes back,
and immediately release. If he begins to flex to
assume the sit, your hand must come away from
his rear, and follow through with the stay signal
and the praise and then the sit straight command, etc.

If he didn't sit as we'd expect, you may repeat the
command a second time, with a sound cue
accompanying the signal and voice followed
immediately by prolonged, non physical praise.

Continue working in this manner until it seems that
he no longer remembers your request or resists.

That being the case, you may in a conversational
tone, repeat the command and hand signal without
a sound cue for your third request to sit during this
command sequence.

While negotiating the sit, it is appropriate if
necessary, to turn in any direction to maintain
the heel position to your dog's shoulder.

It doesn't matter where you end up facing to
the original point of orientation, so long as you
find him sitting at the heel position. Praise him
for completing the sit, and then ask him to sit
straight, as you adjust him towards the orientation
point or landmark that you were facing originally.

Now you must adjust him to the appropriate position.
Don't try to do this all at once, or you'll upset the
apple cart! At first, just square him to your side till
he feels comfortable being adjusted.

You'll extend your right arm to control his front;
the left foot must remain stationary at the heel
position. The right foot may step back a few
inches as you bend at the knees, and using
the left palm on the large muscle of the rear leg
of your dog, gently push just a little as you ask
him to sit straight.

Be sure to follow through with the stay signal,
and praise. Once again you may adjust his front.
Soon, you will be able to turn him any amount in
order to accomplish making him return to the
heel position. And after just a few days of practice,
he'll adjust himself on your command "sit straight."

Of course, all of the above presumes that your
dog performed the initial phase of the return to
heel command. If he did not, then you will have
to ask him a fourth request with sound on the
cue word to "return to heel" (the command to
your dog is simply heel, the "return to" is for
your understanding only).

So, let's say he refuses the fourth request. That's
O.K. Simply place the handle of your lead into the
left hand, and step backwards dropping the length
of the lead while giving the come command signaling
with the right hand, and collect the lead, taking the
half length in your right hand, and placing it into your
left palm along with the handle of the lead.

Your signal, of course, for the come command must
accompany the voice command.

As you move backward, you may go as little or far
as you need to accomplish getting him to come
straight in to you. The come command should have
been properly conditioned earlier, so that now all
you need to do is work on sit from the front!

While he's in motion on the recall, ask for the sit
before he gets to you. Do this while he is about
three feet away. This will give him time to process
thinking of your command.

Your lead will be in your left hand, and you may
shorten it by taking the length with your right hand,
and slide it through your left palm, as you follow
through with the hand signal to sit from the front.

Keep that signal open, and wait. Stand erect, and
try to lean towards him a little. Bring your right hand
forward, and with the middle finger and thumb, touch
just in front of his hip bone.

If he starts to flex into position, follow through with
the stay signal, even before he has finished sitting.
Of course, you will follow through with praise, and
while doing so, pat him on the chest as you ask him
to "sit straight," and adjust him square in front of you.

You may turn as much as is necessary to maintain
the position directly in front of your dog. Where
he sits is relevant only to his position to you at
this time.

If necessary, you may repeat the command to "sit
from the front," using sound on the cue word (the
command sit is for the dog, and sit from the front
is for your clarification).

As soon as you've got him seated squarely in front
of you, the lead will be placed into your right hand,
and complete the exercise by returning him to the
heel position.

Now you're ready to move forward on the heel.
Your voice command must coincide with the
movement of your left foot, your eyes must be
directed forward, you may signal with your left
index finger forward, and step forward speaking
to him as though he were working perfectly.

You'll go forward at least three full steps, speaking
a word of praise with each step. If he moves along
with you, that's fine. If not, that's O.K.; collect your
lead as you step directly backward into the heel
position.

Some dogs will simply sit there. Give a second
request using sound on the cue word and signal,
and follow through as before. If he again refuses
to move along into the heel, simply step back
again, and prefix your third request as before.

If he has broken the sit command, disregard that.
The prior command is not being broken, the new
command "heel" is the one we're now concerned with.

This point is crucial so don't rush through it!

Let's look at this from your dog's point of view.
Your dog is sitting at the heel position. You step
forward on the heel, and he lies down. He broke
the heel command, not the sit.

Once a new command is issued, the previous
command no longer exists.

So, once again you find yourself on the heel
command, three steps in front of your dog,
and he is sitting at the starting point. After
your fourth request to heel, give up on that,
and ask him to come. Of course, he must
come to a sit in front of you, and after all
of the prerequisites have been attended to,
return him to heel, and try again.

Now you should be working well, with the
default system being quite well understood
by your dog. As we move forward on the
heel, expect him to do so for only three steps.

I don't expect he'll want to cooperate, and even
if he did, it's still his obligation to try to get away
with as much as he can!

As he breaks forward on the heel, usually on
your third step forward, simply reverse your
direction by pivoting in the exact opposite
direction, being sure not to allow any contact
with the collar.

We don't want to make him follow you. Anyone
can take a dog on a six-inch length of chain,
and force him to heel. It does not matter if you
are forcing him on a six-inch chain, or a six-foot
lead.

Any force is undesirable, and will result in problems.
Doing these exercises correctly does not require
that your dog perform properly, just you!

Each time your dog charges past your side, simply
make a sound and praise as you reverse, moving
smoothly and fluidly, exactly opposite of the direction
his nose is pointing. He will break past you, maybe
every three steps. And you will alternate sounds
with praise as you reverse.

Soon, he's going to do one of three things, and
your response should be spontaneous and fluid
at each of these junctures. We will deal with each
possibility in turn.

He will go behind you on your right side. If he
does this, you will pivot to your left.

He will not turn with you. At this point, you should
simply give up on the heel command, and ask him
to come. By now you should realize that the lead
must be put into your left hand, etc., before asking
for the "recall" or "come" command.

This requires a sit from the front, before returning
once again to the heel position. Follow through
with the sit from the side, and begin again.

He will cut you off by shouldering in front of your
knee. This time, you're going to handle things
just a little bit differently. As he tries to cut you
off, he's actually trying to force you into a circle
to your right. At this time, you must circle him to the left.

Remember, everything you do is opposite of the
direction your dog chooses.

In order to turn left when he's trying to go to the
right in front of you, you'll have to get your left foot
over in front of him, as you make another sound
distraction and tell him good boy.

You'll probably need to correct him in this manner
two or three times alternating the direction of the
origin of the sound distractions always followed by
praise as you shorten your lead just enough to
apply a very slight amount of tension on the lead,
using your right hand out to your right side, and
release which will cause him to drop back to heel.

Try to move him into a complete left circle, and
come to a sit when you have come full circle.

This circle will start off being rather large, perhaps
six, eight, ten feet or more in diameter. It is
important to finish at exactly three hundred and
sixty degrees.

Come to a sit at this point, follow through with your
stay command, praise, adjust him to sit straight,
and proceed into a three hundred and sixty-degree
right circle.

*Next, we're going to try again to move forward
on the heel command, and proceed only four steps,
and make a ninety degree left turn, taking only
two steps, and making a ninety degree right turn,
and continue for only four steps.

You may need to make a slight correction with
each turn. This correction must be performed
without pulling back on the lead with your left hand.

The right hand is the only hand on the lead,
proceed slowly and deliberately speaking with
each step 1) heel good boy, step 2) nice dog!
step 3) that's a good fella, (next tuning left)
step 4) heel good boy as you make a ninety
degree left turn and continue only one more
step while praising and then turn right with
another request to heel followed by good boy,
and continue as before for three steps, and
on the fourth step turn into a full left hand
circle and come to a halt where you've taken
a fix on a landmark as you start/finish point,
and ask for a sit.

We'll follow through with the sit straight command,
and the relaxation, and then move into a three
hundred sixty degree right circle.

If everything is going quite well, you should just
about get dizzy, with all of this turning and pivoting.

At this point, do not try to go for any distance in
the heel position. You'll have many years of
walking with your dog at the heel position.
This heeling exercise will give you and your
dog all of the basic practice that you need to
accomplish anything you desire.

3A. Down From the Side

At any time you have your dog sitting correctly
in the heel position, you may ask him to lie down.
Your left hand will come up from your side, palm
open, fingers together, and pointing directly
towards the left.

Bring your hand from high above your dogs head,
and slightly forward, so as to not come into his
line of vision abruptly or close to his eyes, at
the moment you give the voice command to down.

Keep the signal open, and wait. Give him plenty
of time to think about this command. After several
seconds, and when it seems that he is no longer
thinking about this command, repeat the signal
and voice command with the appropriate sound
cue and follow through with praise.

Continue praising once again, until you are sure
he is no longer thinking about your request.

Repeat the third request and praise without the
sound cue. Keep this hand signal open as you
bring your right arm forward, placing the length
of the lead under your left palm, and place your
left thumb over the lead.

You'll have no tension on the collar; the lead
will be under your palm, coming between your
index finger and thumb. Do not apply pressure.

This will protect your face as you reach for his
left leg with your left hand with the length of the
lead in it. The right hand will have the lead at
the half-length as it was during the heel.

Now place the right hand on the dogs' right leg
and gently lift to place his paws forward. Do
not try to force him to lie down.

If you place his feet just a few inches forward,
follow through with the stay signal, stand up
straight, and praise him. Wait for him to finish
laying down on his own, even if it's ten or
twenty minutes later.

Do not praise with your hand when he is in the
down position. And as always, you may ask him
to down straight. You might touch his shoulders
with your middle finger and thumb gently between
his shoulder blades, or the flat of your palm on
the large muscle of his shoulder or rear legs to
ask him to down straight. At this time you may
pat him.

3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command

You may begin to leave your dog on a stay
command from either a sitting, standing, or
lying down position. Sitting would be easiest.

The stay command is much easier than it sounds.
Proper timing will make this command simple.
The secret is to use all of the cues we have
available at the same time.

We will teach your dog to heel automatically
when you step forward with your left foot, and
to stay automatically when you step forward
with your right foot.

Your right foot will be an additional signal to teach
your dog to stay. It must coincide with the voice
command, and at the same time, you will drop the
length of your lead directly in front of your dog's
face as you move directly toward the end of your
lead.

If done correctly, we have four signals working
in our favor. Dropping the length of your lead
(but not the handle) will have a visual impact on
keeping him in the stay command.

Give your stay hand signal, voice command,
and movement of your right foot all together, as
you bring your right arm forward and release the
length of the lead from your palm.

As you step forward with your left foot, place
the handle of your lead into your left hand.

If he should break the stay command before you
have stepped forward with your left foot, use your
sound and praise and take the middle of you lead
with your left hand to collect the lead back into
the palm of your right hand, and step back into
the heel position, and if necessary, repeat your
sit command.

If this sounds contrary to the earlier discussion
about correcting the last command that your dog
broke, I agree. However, to your dog, stay is a
non-action!

That means that he did not break the stay command,
but rather, he broke the sit command. The position
he was in was the stay command; the concept of
stay does not mean much to your dog.

If you leave his side correctly, and he breaks the
command from the side, he must be corrected
from the side. Most of the time, you'll just step
back as you make a sound cue and if necessary
sit, stay, good, sit straight, and repeat the stay
signal and voice command as you step forward
again.

Once you have taken two steps forward, even
though he is behind you, if he breaks the stay
command now, he has broken it from the front.

That means you'll need to place the handle of
the lead into your left hand, turn to face him,
collecting the length of your lead with your right
hand, and placing it into the palm of your left, as
the signal to sit comes with your right hand.

Try to get him sitting with as little physical contact
as possible, drop the length of your lead, step all
of the way back to the end of your lead, repeat
your stay signal from the front, at the same time
as you step forward on your right foot and continue
directly towards him, collecting the length of your
lead into your left palm.

Now you may physically praise him, ask him to
sit straight, adjust him, repeat the stay signal
from the front as you drop the length of the lead
and step back.

Initially, we will give extra stay signals (with voice
commands) at each point of our movement. We
expect him to break the stay command when we
move, so move smoothly, and distinctly, giving
the signal with each new movement.

When correcting a broken stay command use
a sound and praise only, and return the dog to
the position without comment or physical contact,
if possible.

Return to the point where he was when he broke
the command, praise from that distance, repeat
the stay command again as you quickly move in
toward him, ask him to sit straight again, praise,
pat, repeat the stay command and go back.

Each point of movement requires handling of the
lead properly to correct any mistakes quickly and
without fussing. (By point of movement, I mean
when you leave the side, when you reach the end
of the lead and turn to face him, and when you
begin to returntohim.

3C. Returning to the Heel Position

Now you are ready to return to the heel position
by going behind your dog. As you move toward
your dog, repeat your stay signal from the front,
place the handle of your lead into your right hand,
and side your left hand down the length of the lead,
to keep it adjusted as you go to your right, along
the left side of your dog.

As you return to your dog, if he breaks the stay
command before you get directly behind him, the
lead must go back into your left hand as you step
backwards to correct him from the front.

As you return to your dog, if he breaks the stay
command when you are directly behind him, the
lead will return to your right hand, and you will
correct him from the side.

*Once he's used to that, get him used to paying
attention to your feet as you pass by, lulling him
into a false sense that he's going to remain there,
as you plant your left foot at the heel position and
pass by stepping off on your right foot with your
stay signal and command.

After several repetitions, plant your right foot
at his shoulder and pass by on your left foot,
asking for a heel and taking just one step, ask
for a sit.

Long stay commands are simply a matter of
understanding how long your dog will remain
in the desired position before moving. If your
dog is willing to remain in position for any given
period of time, it is likely that he will be consistent,
and remain in that position for whatever amount
of time as long as he feels comfortable.

Carefully time his limits, and just before that time
span has elapsed, make a move using the
appropriate signals. This should have the effect
of "re- starting" his clock. So, if you expect he'll
remain sitting for ten seconds, make your move
at about eight seconds into the command, and
return to your original point and wait. Anticipate
when he will break the command, and you'll have
no difficulty extending the amount of time that he
is able to stay on command.

The American Kennel Club (A.K.C.) requires that
a stay command last for only three minutes of
sitting, and six minutes in the down position.
That is probably due to time constraints in the
show ring. For our purposes, you determine the
quantity of time that you would prefer your dog
to remain in a stay command.

Remember, each time you must correct your
dog for breaking a stay command is an
opportunity to extend his ability to wait. Be
consistent, patient, and persistent. Don't ask
him to do something, and forget about following
through to properly enforce the desired command.

3D. Down From the Front

When both you and your dog are comfortable
with working on stay commands, you may go
on to down from the front.

Start at the six-foot distance, and use a full
sweep of the forearm, keeping the signal open,
fingers together, palm down, fingers pointing
toward your dog.

Give your signal and wait as before, and if
necessary repeat your second request with
sound on the cue word. On your third request,
as your signal is coming down, collect your
lead with your right hand at the half-length,
placing it into your left palm.

Keeping your right hand on the length of the lead,
control the lead with your right thumb, as you move
in to grasp the left front leg with your right hand,
being careful not to release the length of the lead.

Your left hand will do likewise, keeping the lead
folded as you place your left hand on his right
front leg, making sure that the collar has no
tension on it, but that the lead has no slack.

This will protect your face while working on
placing your dog down. Gently pick up on his front
feet, and move them forward. Even if they come
forward only a couple of inches, follow through
with your stay command, drop the length of your
lead as you step all the way back.

In the unlikely event that your dog remains in the
down position, you must return to the heel position
quickly, thus avoiding the likelihood that he will
now break the down -stay command.

This would require that you again place him into
the down position from the front. Once you've
returned to the heel position, if he should break
the down stay command, you may correct him
from the side.

4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS

Try leaving your dog from the heel position on
a sit or down-stay command, stepping off with
your right foot as you issue the stay signal with
voice command, dropping the length of your lead
directly in front of his nose as your left foot is
proceeding into its first movement of your
second step.

As you plant your left foot on the ground, the
handle of the lead must go over the thumb of
your left hand, and your right foot should be
moving forward into your third step, and continue
to the six foot length of your lead.

Turning to face him with a flash of your right palm
and a repeat voice command to stay, tell him he's
a good dog, repeat your stay signal and voice
command as you once again step forward on
your right foot.

Depending on whether you want to move directly
into him to adjust his position, or to pat and
reassure him, or continue to go around him to
return to the heel position, requires different
handling techniques with the lead.

These differences are important so that any errors
may be corrected efficiently, and also so that we
will not give any unintentional cues that might cause
him to break his command. We want to throw the
dog off guard to keep him distracted while we're moving.

If your intent is to keep him sitting or down while
in front of you at a distance, you'll need to control
the lead with your left hand. If he should break
the stay command, just sound and praise and if
necessary repeat the signal and the command that
he broke (in this case either sit or down), and
without speaking, collect the lead with your right
hand, keeping the signal open, and placing the
lead half way down into your left hand.

If your intent is to return to the heel position,
you'll need to hold the handle of your lead with
the right hand, sliding your left hand down the
length of your lead as you approach him.

So, when you're at the six-foot distance in front
of him, as you're about to move toward him, repeat
your stay signal as you step forward with your right foot.

Move directly forward, collecting your lead into
your left hand, step right up to your dog, pat,
praise, adjust, repeat the stay signal, and step
directly back as you drop the length of the lead,
and return to the six foot distance in front of your dog.

Repeat your stay signal once again as you step
forward on your right foot, place the handle of
your lead into your right hand, slide your left hand
down the lead as you extend your arms enough to
keep the extra slack out of the way, and proceed
to your right around your dog.

As you step past his head, this is the moment
when he will be likely to break position. If he
does, make a sound distraction and praise,
while placing the lead into your left hand, repeat
your signal with your right hand and voice
command with praise, correct his position, drop
the length as you step all of the way back, praise
from this distance, repeat your stay commands,
and try again to return around him.

As you do so, if he breaks position as you approach
directly behind him, correct him as you would from
the side. Next time, plan your move so that you
plant your left foot at the heel position, as you move
without hesitation into the stay command, passing
by him with your right foot, moving directly to the
end of your lead.

Repeat this several times, just moving forward
and returning around from behind him and leaving
him seated as you pass by.

After several tries, plan your move so that when
you are directly behind him you will plant your right
foot at the heel position, and pass his shoulder as
you step out of the stationary heel position and
into the forward heel with your left foot, hand signal,
and voice command to heel. Take three steps,
speaking with each step and come to a halt,
asking for a sit or down.

STAND

The signal for stand may be given from the side
or the front (front is easier) with the palm open,
facing down, just a sweep in front of your chest.

You may move your right foot at the same time,
forward from the side, and backward from the front.

As with the other commands, repeat after a few
moments, or if he seems to no longer be acknowledging
recognition of the command. On your third request,
repeat your command with sound and praise, and gently
coax him into position.

>From the front, as soon as he begins to move,
follow through with sound and praise and the stay
signal, and go directly toward him, asking him to
stand straight. Adjust his front, come around behind
him into the heel position, repeat the stay signals,
run your hand along the sides of his body, adjust
his feet so they are lined up properly, and move
forward to the end of your lead.

To exit a stand-stay command, return to the heel
position and take one step forward on the heel,
and ask for a sit or down. Try to avoid asking him
to come to you from a standing position.

Down In Motion (On Heel Or Recall)

Now that we have the heeling pattern exercise we
can use it to teach other more advanced work. The
down while in motion is particularly easy to teach
if we give the down command on our third step,
when the dog is going to expect to turn left.

He's ready to turn with you and that's a perfect
opportunity to ask him to do something different,
like drop as we give the down signal on our left
foot and step past him on our next step with our
right foot with a stay command as we continue
to the end of the lead.

Same idea with the down on recall. The dog is
familiar with coming nine feet. The six foot length
of your lead and three foot length of your arm.

That means the dog is used to coming nine feet
and sitting. So, when we ask for a down on recall,
we just ask for a come command, step back six feet
and ask for a down as we step one step forward,
follow through, and step back to the full length of the
lead to praise. Then you can ask again for a come
to finish. Now that we have these distances the dog
is able to work with, we can use it for all kinds of commands.

6.Conclusion

As you interrupt barking patterns, notice the time
it takes between bursts of barking. If there's a three
second pause, interrupt and praise the bark, and praise
again after two and a half seconds. That'll reset his timer
to allow five seconds of silence between barking spells.

When the dog first begins to break his barking,
you'll hear an "extinguishment" barking pattern.
The regular barking will begin to break up, and there
will be "spaces" in between the barks. Those "spaces"
require instant praise. ANY WHINING IS GOOD if you're
breaking barking.

It's NOT barking, so PRAISE THE WHINING. When
the barking is fully extinguished, THEN work on the
whining just as you did the barking. The same tact
is used with any repetetive behavior.

The praise must be timed just right, so that we're
praising the first instant of silence, then break our
attention to allow the dog to think of resuming, and
praise just before the anticipated time that he'll take
before resuming the bark. Usuall it starts out at two
or three seconds between bursts.

Strategically interrupting and praising will quickly
extingush the habitual aspects of the behavior. If
you have difficulty with anything here, call or write
me for assistance.

SOUND DISTRACTION AND PRAISE TECHNIQUE

Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to
break any behavior. There are a number of things that
have to be considered when beginning th isapproach.A
few preliminary exercises in the Wits' End Dog Training
Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com
will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn.
Using them will insure that the method will work to a high
degree of proficiency.

The problem is that not many people understand how
to use the sound distraction and praise techniques
correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come
command as a default, if the sound does not work on
occasion. When you are told these methods have been
tried and didn't work, rest assured that whomever
"tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not
"try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work,
the come command is to be used as a default, and a
new attempt at addressing the problem can begin.

I've heard a couple of the "experts" saying they've
tried it, and it didn't work for them or it made their dog
nervous. Those are usually the experts who choke and
shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using
sound instead of choking or shocking... Many of them
have never read the techniques presented here, and
are using inappropriate or incorrect methods.

There are some people who do not follow directions
and get lousy results, and there are people who do not
allow the technique adequate repetition to be
successful. There is no excuse that these techniques
will not work if done correctly, they are a scientific
fact.

Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the
same each time, but that is not always possible. A
single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would
do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does
not happen twice in succession from the same point of
origin. That's why several penny cans are required, or
a friend or family member can be enlisted to clap their
hands or snap their fingers, to create another source
of sound distraction. You cannot use the same penny
can for more than two occasions in succession.

Once it's been tossed, it must remain where it falls,
till the exercise if finished.

The sound must always be instantly followed by
PROLONGED (5-15 seconds), non physical praise.
The sound must never occur from the same point of
origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief.
Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and
PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dogs know it was
not intended for them.

When more than one dog is present when using sound
distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present must
receive praise with direct eye contact so they will
UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The
praise must continue constantly for several seconds
following any sound cue to allow the thought process
to be completed.

The behavior MUST be allowed or CAUSED to be
repeated and interrupted AGAIN using sound and
praise until the behavior is broken. And most
importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming
the behavior, you must praise him.

That's right. When the dog thinks about resuming the
behavior, praise him at that exact moment, and the
previous DISTRACTIONS will be restimulated in the
dogs mind, and the behavior will QUICKLY be
extinguished.

That's why trying to prevent the dog from doing a
behavior is COUNTERPRODUCTIVE.

You end up distracting the dog's thoughts from the
behavior we are teaching or breaking.

That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers
here to understand. They want to make it happen, and
they interfere with the dog's thought process. The dog
will learn through the process of elimination of
alternative actions or behaviors.

It ONLY takes a few minutes, and the behavior is
eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to
resume, as is the case with physical or verbal
corrections, confrontation, or punishment "techniques."

The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist
on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the
conditioning that has been established.

Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of
the desired effect. Phyisical opposition is triggered
through force or pressure, emotional opposition is
triggered through negative emotions.

What further complicates the process for the trainer
is that they break the conditioning when they respond
with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive
reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or
reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting
the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather
than taking the moment to THINK about the best way
to address the problem, and if necessary, search for
a can or figure out some way to create an appropriate,
brief, distraction, and follow through with the appropriate
sound distraction and praise.

(If you're still following, you now understand why
"traditional?" trainers confound their dogs, by jerking
the lead and shouting NO. Someone ought to mention
that, don't you agree?)

The process must be carried out using an alternate
source of sound for the next interruption. An associate
could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on
signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption, a
can with some pennies may be used, a coincidental.
spontaneous occuring sound might serve us well.

Just imagine HOWE your dog is going to react if you
knew there's going to be a peal of thunder, and you
timed it so as to correspond to a failed come command???

We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative
malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks,
in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn.

Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog
no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are
becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or
competitor in the dog's mischief.

Using sound as a distraction must always be followed
by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise.
Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be
associated with us, as in voicing "no," or telling the
dog to "stop it." That's going to cause animostiy,
and teach the dog to control you.

The behavior should NOT be distracted with any
PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to
begin again, so that we may have another opportunity
to properly address the behavior with another sound
distraction and praise.

That way, we can completely end a problem while the
dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to
address the issue before it becomes out of control. The
sound must never occur twice in a row from the same
direction.

In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of
the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace,
you'd praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately
upon snapping your fingers.

The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next
attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the
snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or
even from a friend assisting from across the room, from
a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of
sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged, non
physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking
about the behavior, or resumes it.

The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the
message across, and the dog will think about the
behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once
again for the fourth and last time...

That split second of thinking about engaging in the
behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a
challenge of shouting no, or physically removing
the temptation.

That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior
and the praise it earns him, will validate the prior
interruptions of that behavior.The dog then needs to
test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be
dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will
usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if
you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do
that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace!
He must take that behavior to other instances to fully
extinguish his desire for the behavior.

The behavior will not be completely broken until he has
taken the process of elimination to the second, third,
and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior. And,
even at that, you may need to repeat the process in
four completely different places to generalize it.

That means that the worst behavior may need up to
sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise.
Usually it happens much quicker than that.

Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress,
takes us out of the position of negative enforcer or
competitor or playmate, and allows the dog to
extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn't get
any satisfaction from it.

The other secret is giving the dog a payoff for every
time they look at you. Each time you notice eye
contact from your dog, you must praise him verbally,
to keep him always thinking of you and to prevent his
idle mind from doing the devil's work.

THIS CONCLUDES PART TWO OF THE W.E.D.T.M. MANUAL







Diana
2004-10-09 05:59:59 EST

"Chris Carney" <ccarney@truetechsupport.com> wrote in message
news:59eb53ef.0410061844.3edff30d@posting.google.com...
> Hi,
>
[..]

> Also, anyone have any ideas on finding video tapes, DVD's or
> downloadable copies of the Nat'l Geo show? I missed a bunch of
> episodes, not sure if they repeat them all or not.
>

I don't know if you can get it in the US, but one of the most acclaimed
training videos in the UK is 'The Motivation Movie' by Joanna Hill & Sarah
Whitehead... here's a UK link: http://www.apbc.org.uk/videos.htm
'Fraid not a lot of info on the page, but I've seen it and our puppy class
was structured around the training in it - and one of the best tricks I've
ever picked up for a sloppy recall is in it!

Diana



The Puppy Wizard
2004-10-09 21:44:39 EST
HOWEDY tommy,

Lee was just WONderin HOWE you was
gonna train marie's dog not to steal food
off the CHOWENTERS?


"Handsome Jack Morrison" <me10004@privacy.net.invalid> wrote in
message news:6vqgm0hdtomql3aeqts23936mgbf8hgla5@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 18:46:01 -0400, "LeeCharlesKelley"
> <kelleymethod@aol.com> wrote:
>
> []
> >Howe:>That's pretty brutal stuff. The guy's a MENACE.
>
> There you go!
>
> You've finally found that "like-minded" person you were looking
for --
> Jerry "The Orlando Shyster" Howe.
>
> A match made in heaven!
>
> And if you're patient, some of his sock-puppets may even come
out and
> play with you...
>
> --
> Handsome Jack Morrison
> *gently remove the detonator to reply via e-mail
>
> The Buried Truth, by Christopher Hitchens:
> http://slate.msn.com/id/2107972
>
> A Time For Manhood:
> http://www.nypost.com/postopinion/opedcolumnists/26628.htm
>
> The Anti-Idiotarian Rottweiler Little Green
Footballs
> http://nicedoggie.net/
http://littlegreenfootballs.com/weblog/
> Glenn Reynolds - InstaPundit Mark Steyn
> http://www.instapundit.com/
http://www.steynonline.com/
> The Belmont Club Michelle Malkin
> http://belmontclub.blogspot.com/
http://michellemalkin.com/
> Don Luskin Rightwing News
> http://www.poorandstupid.com/chronicle.asp
http://www.rightwingnews.com/
> The Indepundit Victor Davis
Hanson-Private Papers
> http://www.lt-smash.us/
http://victorhanson.com/index.html



The Puppy Wizard
2004-10-10 13:46:32 EST
HOWEDY lush,

"Diana" <diana@dogstuffagain.fslife.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ck8cqu$vic$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...
>
> "Chris Carney" <ccarney@truetechsupport.com> wrote in message
> news:59eb53ef.0410061844.3edff30d@posting.google.com...
> > Hi,
> >
> [..]
>
> > Also, anyone have any ideas on finding
> > video tapes, DVD's or downloadable copies
> > of the Nat'l Geo show? I missed a bunch of
> > episodes, not sure if they repeat them all or not.
>
> I don't know if you can get it in the US, but
> one of the most acclaimed training videos
> in the UK is 'The Motivation Movie' by Joanna
> Hill & Sarah Whitehead... here's a UK link:
> http://www.apbc.org.uk/videos.htm

That so? Sez you, lush?

> 'Fraid not a lot of info on the page,

Right.

> but I've seen it and our puppy class
> was structured around the training in it -

Well then, that sez it all, don't it, lush.
You HURT and INTIMDIATE your dog, lush.

> and one of the best tricks I've
> ever picked up for a sloppy recall is in it!

That so, lush? You care to share it?

> Diana

HOWE COME your dog still ain't well behaved?




Chris Carney
2004-10-13 20:34:29 EST
Hi sorry, I posted the following to a different group by accident
because the replies got cross-posted to a couple of groups, just
wanted to keep the thread going here too.

Hi all,

I've officially given up on trying to find that or any show on tape,
or even trying to catch it when it's on.

Puppy wizard: Thank you so much. I've been going through the book,
we already have made more progress than I ever imagined possible in
such a short time. We had just recently (2 months ago) gotten a puppy
who was sick right when we brought him home. Because of this, we
wound up having to keep him very close for the first few days he was
home, I think as a result of this, and the vet visit (needles, xrays,
etc) he started getting severe anxiety every time we left him alone
for a minute even, we had tried the usual recommendations about
leaving him in increasing short durations (with no measurable luck).
So in our infinite wisdom we said let's get another puppy to keep him
company. While I'm sure you know that obviously didn't do the trick
to say the least, I'm still glad we did it because I know in the long
run they'll be good company for each other when we're not around for a
couple of hours.

The boy (19 week old lhasapso-poodle mix), was the first of the two.
We had noticed some other behavioral problems with him in terms of
chewing things he wasn't supposed to, begging for food, that type of
stuff, which is what mislead me to trying some of the things that most
‘trainers' teach like clasping his mouth shut with our hands etc, of
course I'm sure you know that didn't help, and in fact if anything
made it worse. A little more history on him: he had been pretty well
behaved until we baby sat my girlfriends old bosses dog (same breed as
him, but adult, and bigger) after only having him for one week, their
dog who we know is largely ignored at their house, was completely
unreceptive/anti-social to ours, and actually would growl if he got
close (which he would keep trying to do), and even bit him hard enough
to make him scream once, up to and even past this point our dog was
friendly to everyone, and always played nice with other dogs. None of
this really matters in the end in terms of retraining him I know, but
I just want to be clear that we never hit him or anything, but I
realize that the clasping his jaw, just reinforced the idea to bite
when he didn't get his way. At any rate, probably the worst of his
other bad habits is that whenever he sees another dog he tries to get
on top of them to display dominance, but this had always been in a
very playful way until we got the second female puppy home (11 week
old schnauzer-poodle), however what we didn't really think about was
that we'd never seen him interact with a dog smaller than him (which
she is all in all, but she's taller). In the past he'd mostly jump up
onto other bigger dogs faces, which luckily didn't ever go badly, but
we were scared of that, and kept stepping on his leash (didn't work).

Anyway, we got the girl home, they had played a little in the pet
store (I know bad place to start), but everything was cool then. Over
the first day or two they just chased each other around and played a
little rough but not more than I've seen most dogs do. At some point
(I'm not sure which one did it first), they started really biting each
other, and we had no idea what to do, we tried pulling them apart,
picking them up and talking softly etc, etc. So all of this led me to
posting here, since the guy on TV seemed to have good luck, and I
thought maybe I was just missing something in his technique. At any
rate, we've been practicing your techniques for a couple of days now
(or trying like hell anyway), and so far, we've been pretty successful
in breaking most bad habits, and somewhat successful in teaching them
to come, which works better with the second dog, the first one is
still waiting for the treat he's not gonna get.

Conversely distraction from negative stuff works really well on the
first one, but not as well on the second (she keeps selectively
ignoring the cans as soon as she gets the idea she might be doing
something that will attract one I think), all in all that seems to be
a problem it's self, but here's the big one… She keeps attacking him
at random, he keeps trying to play rougher than she wants (which leads
to her attacking him again), they both keep stealing toys from each
other (which I think is more often him when I'm not looking). I
successfully broke up I think 4 fights before she started ignoring the
can, and have unsuccessfully attempted to do so a lot of times other
than that. I switched up to saying ‘out' which had no effect on her
concentration on nailing him until I figured I'd try barking it, which
did the trick twice (although on the second attempt I had to repeat
myself, and get my face near her to get her attention, note: all of
these times I'm talking about involved at least 3-5 distractions
followed immediately by praise).

The third time we were outside (the other two were in the different
parts of living room), this time they both completely ignored me
(although I was able to get eye contact with him for a second here and
there), I wound up after about two minutes of hand clapping, barking
‘out' and can tossing while they were throttling each other, resorting
to trying to pull them apart, and or get between them (obviously) to
no avail (I did know that wasn't the right thing, but I had no idea
what was), ultimately I said ‘screw this' and I picked the boy up,
waited for both of them to calm down while I talked quietly to them,
and then picked her up and held her near him while talking nice to
both of them. Got them inside, rubbed both behind the ears until they
were totally relaxed, and put them next to each other. They stayed
that way for a minute until she got up and walked off (she's a lot
more independent then him, which is I think part of the issue). After
a while they both got up and started playing nice for a bit I
eventually heard him crying from the other room, I walked up and
barked ‘out' which succeeded in getting him to escape to a spot she
can't reach (his usual defense when he can pull it off), she ignored
me, I barked ‘out' a couple more times at her while he was out of
reach, this time she looked up, I praised her and did the same thing
the next couple of times whenever she looked like she wanted to get at
him.

They played nice again for a while, although when I say they're
playing nice, it usually involves occasional attempts at tug of war
with a toy or bone, and the older one occasionally stealing/hiding the
toy, which is something I've had marginal success in getting him to
quit but he keeps ‘forgetting', I'm not sure she ever does this to
him, though it's hard to say, but I'm fairly certain that every time
I've seen her do it, she was trying to get something back from him
that she had in the first place, but I've been trying to stop whatever
I see regardless of which one is doing it, which makes me wonder if
part of the ignoring me is because she thinks I'm being unfair letting
the other one steal her toys? I don't have any idea.

Anyway, at the moment they're getting along fine, the last time they
had at it, I resorted to creating distractions they've never heard as
distractions before (knocked over a box, turned on the vacuum, hit the
lid of a trash can, brushed a screen with my hand), which seemed to do
the trick, but what I don't know is whether or not this time is for
keeps, as they both seem to keep forgetting these particular things
even though we've gone way past 4 repetitions of 4 distractions/verbal
praises.

Of course now that I've said that I had to get up just now because I
heard them going at it again, he retreated to the couch, and I had to
get weird about the sounds to stop her in her tracks, she attempted to
get up there (which she can't really accomplish yet), I
distracted/praised her, at which point she turned tail and started
going after everything else she could get her mouth/paws around it
took about 5 successful distractions followed by praise before she
settled down. The only things that worked this time were again sounds
she's not accustomed to, which I still don't have any idea if going to
that is right, but it's the only thing that seems to work.

Outside of all of this they'll often get along just fine for hours at
a time, and the girl is not at all aggressive with other dogs that
I've seen her with, so I think even though she's beating the crap out
of him, and ignoring me, a lot of it stems from him being overbearing
at times, not sure how/if that applies to any solution, but I think
that's how it all started if that matters at this point. Also, like
I've said for the most part they've both learned already not to wreck
stuff, or try to sample our food, but like I said there has been some
‘forgetting' of that stuff too thought mostly at this point with the
younger one, and also, they're about 90% housebroken now, which is a
dramatic improvement over a few days ago, and they're getting pretty
good about the leashes (though they do still pull (him) or balk
(mostly her) occasionally).

So at any rate.. HELP!!!

Thanks again

Chris

The Puppy Wizard
2004-10-13 21:22:19 EST
HOWEDY Chris,

"Chris Carney" <ccarney@truetechsupport.com> wrote in message
news:59eb53ef.0410131416.670cfa64@posting.google.com...
> Hi all,
>
> I've officially given up on trying to find that or
> any show on tape, or even trying to catch it
> when it's on.

A WIZE idea.

> Puppy wizard: Thank you so much.

The pleasure is all HIS.

> I've been going through the book,
> we already have made more progress
> than I ever imagined possible in such
> a short time.

INDEEDY. As STATED in your FREE copy
of The Amazing Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW
Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual
available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com

<snip separation anxiHOWESNESS>

> So in our infinite wisdom we said let's get
> another puppy to keep him company. While
> I'm sure you know that obviously didn't do
> the trick to say the least,

It usually doesn't, but it occasionally does work.

> I'm still glad we did it because I know in the long
> run they'll be good company for each other when
> we're not around for a couple of hours.

Right. But The Amazing Puppy Wizard wouldn't
recommend a second pet as a pet for the first
pet unless a second pet was on the agenda
anyHOWE.

> The boy (19 week old lhasapso-poodle mix),
> was the first of the two. We had noticed some
> other behavioral problems with him in terms of
> chewing things he wasn't supposed to, begging
> for food, that type of stuff, which is what mislead
> me to trying some of the things that most 'trainers'
> teach like clasping his mouth shut with our hands
> etc, of course I'm sure you know that didn't help,
> and in fact if anything made it worse.

Right. That's HOWE COME they need to
increase fear force intimidaton and aversives.

<snip history>

> None of this really matters in the end
> in terms of retraining him I know,

Right. It's just a matter of curiHOWESITY.

> but I just want to be clear that we never hit
> him or anything,

The Amazing Puppy Wizard doesn't hold
people guilty for their mishandling. Most
of it's taught by HOWER EXXXPERTS
like professor SCRUFF SHAKE dermer
of the department of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM
at UofWI and DOG LOVERS like janet boss
leah roberts Master Of Deception blankman
lying frosty dahl tommy sorenson diannes
BINACA bethFIST and the assorted malingerers,
maliciHOWES hackers, liars cowards, dog
abusers and active long term incurable mental
cases we got here who've got THE SAME SAME
PROBLEMS new posters got and ain't got NO
METHOD of FIXIN IT.

You know, the WONS who call The Amazing
Puppy Wizard and all HIS 100% CONSISTENTLY
NEARLY INSTANTLY SUCCESSFUL FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual
Students all over the Whole Wild World LIARS
and their posts FORGERIES by The Amazing
Puppy Wizard.

Nice folks, like yourself, for EXXXAMPLE.

> but I realize that the clasping his jaw, just
> reinforced the idea to bite when he didn't
> get his way.

Right. It makes them MOORE fearful.

> At any rate, probably the worst of his
> other bad habits is that whenever he
> sees another dog he tries to get on
> top of them to display dominance,

No. Forget dominance.

That's anxiHOWESNESS.

ALL HOWER DOG LOVERS dogs hump
whatever they can find. Look it up. It's NO
coincidence. Well adjusted dogs do not hump.

> but this had always been in a very playful
> way until we got the second female puppy
> home (11 week old schnauzer-poodle),
> however what we didn't really think about
> was that we'd never seen him interact with
> a dog smaller than him (which she is all in
> all, but she's taller).

It's irrelevent.

A dog is a dog.

All behaviorproblems are caused by mishandling.

> In the past he'd mostly jump up onto other
> bigger dogs faces, which luckily didn't
> ever go badly, but we were scared of that,
> and kept stepping on his leash (didn't work).

Right. In fact, restraining the dog is HOWE
COME they jump up. janet boss's dogs
"POGO STICKS" as she calls it when he
meets new people.

That's from gettin jerked and choked.

Her kat attacks her when she punishes
her dogs, and is in treatment at the
neurologist for "SEIZURE LIKE BEHAVIOR"
and is takin VALIUM to CON-TROLL it.

> Anyway,

You mean anyHOWE.

<snip rougHOWEing>

> At some point (I'm not sure which one did
> it first), they started really biting each other,

Set limits to their excitement level of play
and distract and praise when they reach
that limit.

> and we had no idea what to do, we tried pulling
> them apart, picking them up and talking softly
> etc, etc. So all of this led me to posting here,
> since the guy on TV seemed to have good luck,

It takes him weeks and months of daily
practice to get that kinda LUCK.

> and I thought maybe I was just missing
> something in his technique.

Right. You'll NOTICE you don't see Chico
walkin the dog. You see him walkin off an
returnin, but you don't see him on the walk
where he conditions the dog to gettin choked
so when he makes his "ssssh" S-HOWEND
he gets the kinda reaction you see. And of
curse, he don't mind gettin bit on six fingers
of each hand.

> At any rate,

You mean, anyHOWE.

> we've been practicing your techniques for a
> couple of days now (or trying like hell anyway)

Good. You been tryin like heel anyHOWE.

> and so far, we've been pretty successful
> in breaking most bad habits,

Good. But "pretty good" means FAILURE
to The Amazing Puppy Wizard. We want
100% TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CON-TROLL
NEARLY INSTANTLY

HOWEver, we still got TIME. You only been
handling pupperly for a couple days.

> and somewhat successful in teaching them
> to come, which works better with the second
> dog, the first one is still waiting for the treat
> he's not gonna get.

Right. You've got some mishandling to overcome.
That usually takes abHOWET four days to work
through. Stick with the method PRECISELY.

> Conversely distraction from negative stuff works
> really well on the first one, but not as well on the
> second (she keeps selectively ignoring the cans
> as soon as she gets the idea she might be doing
> something that will attract one I think),

Fine. Could be she's holding HOWET for a treat
or trying to command 100% of your undivided
negative attention. Don't fall victim to her tactics.

Do ALL the EXXXERCISES in the manual. The
Hot & Cold Exercise teaches attention and trust.
The Family Leadership Exercise teaches attention
trust and installs the come command as a conditional
reflex.

They're CRUCIAL to the METHOD.

PRAISE IN ADVANCE and PRAISE INSTANTLY
to the S-HOWEND and NEVER repeat the S-HOWEND
from the same direction twice in a row and NEVER
NEVER NEVER tell your dog NO or otherWIZE have
any negative interaction with them.

> all in all that seems to be a problem it's self,

Just follow the technique, the method NEVER FAILS.

> but here's the big one. She keeps attacking him at random,

Praise in advance and INSTANTLY PRAISE the S-HOWEND.
Don't wait for a response or for them to look at you or stop.
Just S-HOWEND/PRAISE alternately S-HOWEND/PRAISE
and if THAT fails, ask them to come and INSTANTLY PRAISE
the come command and folow through with the S-HOWEND
CUE on the second request if necessary.

> he keeps trying to play rougher than she wants
> (which leads to her attacking him again), they
> both keep stealing toys from each other (which
> I think is more often him when I'm not looking).

The PROBLEM is an issue of TRUST.

I've got to go NHOWE. I'll try to finish this post
later. But for NHOWE, keep up the good work.

"Ned" <komodo71@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:fQIg9.25850$561.25365@news02.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...

> Hi !
> Our black lab girl is 3 months old (she will be 4 months
> on the 30th).
>
> When we first brought her home she had a bad habit
> of trying to nip our faces (including my 3 year old twins)
> during playtime. It drove everyone in the house nuts
> and it brought my little girls to tears as you can imagine.
> We tried saying no, and that would just get her even
> more excited, so we would yell no and that would just
> get her "scared" but still excited. In short it just wasn't
> working.
>
> So we finally did what Jerry has suggested to you.
> We used a sound do distract her and we would
> immediately praise her.
>
> I have to say that it worked great. BUT she
> then moved on to nipping at the feet LOL silly
> little thing.
>
> So again, we tried no, and then louder no, but again
> it didn't work so we went for the distraction and praise.
>
> I must say that she is doing great!
>
> I hope that helps.
>
> Edyta aka Ned

===================


Nevyn writes:

Jerry I cannot even begin to tell you the success I've
had with your training manual! My two mutts have gone
from out-of-control psychos to obedient well behaved
companions within a matter of weeks! AND My friends
have seen the success and have asked me to work
on their dogs!

I was working with a 5 month old Ridgeback female
today and she was being an angel after like an hour
of working with her! it is AMAZING!!

I pity those fools who take their dogs to classes
where the "Trainers" abuse their dogs! (do they
have a degree? A masters? a Phd? by the way?
NO they are average joes off the street who
think they know how to train dogs!)

Once again, Jerry, you are a genius!

NEVYN and my Dogs, Rizzo and Midget, My Grandparents
dogs, Dusty and Snoopy, and my friends pup, Jazz.

================

Hi, Jerry.

I'm not sure that I'm a 100% convert, or that I agree
with (or even understand) 100% of what you say in this
manual ... BUT ... we had "come" down pat in a few
reps and you could have knocked me down when I tried
the exercise with "drop" and, after a few reps in
different spots Darwin practically *threw* the rubber
ball at my feet on command. He's still not perfect
(just a pup, after all, and he's stubborn enough to
want to push and test me a little bit more).

For what it's worth, I can see (as no doubt you have)
how your usenet manner is likely to rankle a few
folks, but that woman who advocates ear pulling and
beating with sticks deserves everything she gets. Even
if that was the only method that would work, I'd live
with my dog not fetching rather than do any of that.
(Darwin fetches enthusiastically and instinctively,
tho').

Best, ben

===================

From: Becky (BeckySiz@new.rr.com)
Subject: Re: Crate Anxiety
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior
Date: 2002-04-04 12:56:23 PST

Try Jerry Howe's training manual and check out his Doggy
Do Right (And Kitty Will And A Rooster Did And A Cockatoo
Or Two Did Too) machine....it is for this.

Please do not listen to the others in here that don't like
him or his methods, they have never tried them....I have
and it works!!!!

I broke my dog from nipping almost 100% in 1 day and
she usually does this SEVERAL times a day and actually
makes my kids bleed!

Try it or contact him!

The manual is at the above website
also, and it is free!

Becky



The Puppy Wizard
2004-10-14 02:02:11 EST
HOWEDY Chris,

"Chris Carney" <ccarney@truetechsupport.com> wrote in message
news:59eb53ef.0410131416.670cfa64@posting.google.com...
> Hi all,
>
> I've officially given up on trying to find that or
> any show on tape, or even trying to catch it
> when it's on.

A WIZE idea. They're all full of malarkey.

> Puppy wizard: Thank you so much. I've been
> going through the book, we already have made
> more progress than I ever imagined possible in
> such a short time.

Yeah. That's just HOWE it IS when you use EFFECTIVE
NON PHYSICAL SCIENTIFIC and PSYCHOLOGICAL
CONDITIONING and DESENSITIZATION techniques.

<snip>

> I successfully broke up I think 4 fights before she
> started ignoring the can, and have unsuccessfully
> attempted to do so a lot of times other than that.

When you broke up those fights, did you separate
them or "take CON-TROLL," or did you just praise
and let them return to their business so you could
have another bite at the apple, so to speak?

That's IMPORTANT. We DON'T want to "take
CON-TROLL" or we'll AVOID the TRAINING
OPPORTUNITIES.

> I switched up to saying 'out'

INSTANTLY followed by PROLONGED NON
PHYSICAL PRAISE.

> which had no effect on her concentration on nailing him

Did you instantly praise after sayin "out"?

> until I figured I'd try barking it, which did the trick
> twice (although on the second attempt I had to
> repeat myself, and get my face near her to get
> her attention,

O.K. You probably should have asked for
heelp a little sooner. You shouldn't be having
this much difficulty breakin the behavior.

S-HOWENDS like you're making the S-HOWEND
from the same direction several times in succession.
That could be HOWE COME it didn't WORK pupperly.

Of curse, you've only been working the METHOD
for 2 DAYS or so.

Have you done ALL the preliminary EXXXERCISES?
You mention you haven't got the come command
fully insalled on WON dog, and you sez the other
is "pretty good." The Amazing Puppy Wizard requires
a 100% RELIABLE COME COMMAND installed
as a conditional reflex.

Do all the preliminary EXXXERCISES four times
(successfully) in four places. IOW, if you've done
it but didn't get the RESULT then that session
doesn't C-HOWENT.

> note: all of these times I'm talking about involved
> at least 3-5 distractions followed immediately by praise).

You should quit distraction and praise after the
fourth failed distract/praise and ask them to come
and FOLLOW THE METHOD. PRAISE and WALK
BACKWARDS PRAISING and TURN and WALK
AWAY PRAISING.

If you've done the preliminary EXXXERCISES
you should be able to break them long enough
to HAVE ANOTHER TRY AT IT till you've
EXXXTINGUISHED the fear aggression.

> The third time we were outside (the other
> two were in the different parts of living room),
> this time they both completely ignored me
> (although I was able to get eye contact with
> him for a second here and there),

Don't wait for eye contact pryor to PRAISING.
PRAISE the S-HOWEND REGARDLESS of
the behaviors you're seeing and FOLLOW
THE TECHNIQUES PRECISELY.

> I wound up after about two minutes of hand
> clapping, barking 'out' and can tossing while
> they were throttling each other, resorting
> to trying to pull them apart, and or get between
> them (obviously) to no avail (I did know that
> wasn't the right thing, but I had no idea what
> was),

S-HOWENDS like they was really having a
go at it. Of curse, your participation in trying
to STOP the behavior could reinforce and
further EXXXCITE them.

WON dog may think you're teaming up with
the other, or they both may blame each other
for you gettin upset or afraid. Dogs will use
ANY THING as an EXXXCUSE to get us goin.

> ultimately I said 'screw this' and I picked the boy up,
> waited for both of them to calm down while I talked
> quietly to them, and then picked her up and held her
> near him while talking nice to both of them.

Good. It'd be best not to physically restrain
or pat them when you're doin this, but you
didn't have any choice under the circumstances.

> Got them inside, rubbed both behind the ears
> until they were totally relaxed, and put them
> next to each other.

EXXXCELLENT.

> They stayed that way for a minute until she
> got up and walked off (she's a lot more
> independent then him, which is I think part
> of the issue).

No, THAT'S FEAR.

> After a while they both got up and started
> playing nice for a bit I eventually heard him
> crying from the other room, I walked up and
> barked 'out'

And INSTANTLY PRAISED for 5 - 15 seconds.

> which succeeded in getting him to escape to
> a spot she can't reach

Don't forget, the NEXT time you MUST make
a S-HOWEND that comes from BEYOND them.

> (his usual defense when he can pull it off),

Don't let him make a habit of HIDING.

> she ignored me, I barked 'out' a couple more times at her

THAT BROKE THE ALTERNATING
S-HOWEND / PRAISE METHOD.

> while he was out of reach, this time she
> looked up, I praised her

Don't wait for the pup to LOOK at you. FOLLOW
THE METHOD PRECISELY. The dog's response
does NOT dictate when you praise. The PRAISE
INSTANTLY follows the S-HOWEND and the
S-HOWEND NEVER REPEATS from the same
source / direction twice in succession or the
method WILL FAIL.

> and did the same thing the next couple
> of times whenever she looked like she
> wanted to get at him.

No. PRAISE IN ADVANCE.

That way you won't need to play policeman forever.

> They played nice again for a while, although
> when I say they're playing nice, it usually
> involves occasional attempts at tug of war
> with a toy or bone,

That's O.K., so long as you set apupriate
limits on rougHOWEsing so noWON gets
scared or yelps.

> and the older one occasionally stealing/hiding the
> toy, which is something I've had marginal success
> in getting him to quit but he keeps 'forgetting',

Hmm. That's curiHOWES. Of curse you know
dogs only HIDE their goodies on accHOWENT
of they're INSECURE. SO, when we KNOW
the dog is HIDING stuff, we KNOW we need
to repeat the Family Leadership Exercise and
teach them to SHARE.

> I'm not sure she ever does this to him, though
> it's hard to say, but I'm fairly certain that every time
> I've seen her do it, she was trying to get something
> back from him that she had in the first place,

Teach them to share an share alike.

> but I've been trying to stop whatever I see
> regardless of which one is doing it, which
> makes me wonder if part of the ignoring me
> is because she thinks I'm being unfair letting
> the other one steal her toys?

Could be. Probably is. Think SHARE.

> I don't have any idea.

No problem. That's HOWE COME The Amazing
Puppy Wizard makes the big bucks doin this
FOR FREE.

> Anyway,

You mean anyHOWE. SPELLIN C-HOWENTS.

> at the moment they're getting along fine,

Good. You had The Amazing Puppy Wizard
SCARED for a minute there.

> the last time they had at it, I resorted to creating
> distractions they've never heard as distractions
> before (knocked over a box, turned on the vacuum,
> hit the lid of a trash can, brushed a screen with my
> hand), which seemed to do the trick,

Well, S-HOWENDS like you're ready for The
Amazing Puppy Wizard's Beans 'N Beer Method.
You like beer? If not, you could substitute whine
and soda or just plain carbonated or sparklin water.

> but what I don't know is whether or not this time
> is for keeps, as they both seem to keep forgetting
> these particular things

PERHAPS it's on accHOWENT of timing tone
tempo or not varying the source/direction of
the S-HOWEND or not PRAISING long enough
or sincerely or exuberantly enough and not
having done all the preliminary exercises (only
on accHOWENT of you haven't had time to in
only 2 days of work with 2 dogs to train).

> even though we've gone way past 4 repetitions
> of 4 distractions/verbal praises.

Perhaps I misunderstood, but I THINK we
got the problems IDENTIFIED. 1) you was
waiting for either eye contact or cessation
of the behavior pryor to praising, and 2) you
failed to alternate the direction/source a couple
times, 3) you have some pryor mishandling
*(bribery / force) to compensate for by regaining
/ establishing TRUST through the preliminary
EXXXERCISES i.e. praising every eye contact,
getting the pupper leash handling technique.

> Of course now that I've said that I had to get up
> just now because I heard them going at it again,

PRAISE THEM and if that don't work
distract and praise them and if that
don't work ask them to come and praise
someMOORE.

> he retreated to the couch, and I had to
> get weird about the sounds to stop her
> in her tracks,

Good. If you can predict when she's gettin
ready, you can PRAISE first and THEN
distract and praise.

> she attempted to get up there (which she
> can't really accomplish yet), I distracted/praised
> her, at which point she turned tail and started
> going after everything else she could get her
> mouth/paws around it

EXXXCELLENT!

That's an EXXXTINCTION BURST.

PRAISE THAT BEHAVIOR.

> took about 5 successful distractions
> followed by praise before she settled down.

Ooops! Shoulda let it ride. The alternate
HOWETA CON-TROLL behavior was an
anxiHOWESNESS relief mechanism.

Unless it's terriby unacceptable, allHOWE
it for a few moments so she can let off
some steam and maybe the NEXT time
or even the time after that, you can work
on breaking the alternate behavior burst.

HOWEver, if this CONtinues for MOORE than
a few moments or repeatedly happens, that
means you're being REPRESSIVE, so we'd
have to take another look at HOWE you're
working the METHOD.

> The only things that worked this time were
> again sounds she's not accustomed to, which
> I still don't have any idea if going to that is right,

That's FINE. You can IMPROVISE as much
as you LIKE, so long as you UNDERSTAND
and FOLLOW the METHOD and it's PRINCIPLES.

> but it's the only thing that seems to work

Fine. The fear aggression behavior will
CEASE AUTOMAGICKALLY as you work
the preliminary EXXXERCISES and get
into the Four Step Heeling Pattern Exercise
work in part 2.

That's got a remarkable effect of calming dogs.

> Outside of all of this they'll often get along just
> fine for hours at a time, and the girl is not at all
> aggressive with other dogs that I've seen her with,
> so I think even though she's beating the crap out
> of him,

Don't forget, she's ONLY doin that on accHOWENT
of she's MOORE FEARFUL. So, understand and do
the PRAISE IN ADVANCE and teach SHARING.

> and ignoring me,

She's probably holding HOWET for a TREAT.

NO TREATS for WORK. Treats are for PLEASURE, only.

> a lot of it stems from him being overbearing at times,

S-HOWENDS like he's just playin too rough.

> not sure how/

You mean HOWE. SPELLIN C-HOWENTS.

> if that applies to any solution,

She's afraid of him. He wants to PLAY.

FIGGER IT HOWET.

Break his EXXXCESSIVE play behavior
and she'll FEEL SAFE.

REMEMBER, when you're working with
multiple dogs you've got to PRASE EACH
OF THEM ANY TIME there's a S-HOWEND
made for ANY of them.

> but I think that's how it all started

Probably so.

> if that matters at this point.

Probably not. AltHOWE any time we
got a behavior that's CONSISTENT
REPEATABLE and PREDICTABLE
means we can EXXXTINGUISH it
NEARLY INSTANTLY.

> Also, like I've said for the most part they've both
> learned already not to wreck stuff, or try to sample
> our food,

Well that's PRETTY GOOD CONsiderin you've
only been pupperly handling your dog for 2 DAYS
NHOWE. HOWER DOG LOVERS can't do that
much in 2 MONTHS. Maybe NEVER.

HOWEver, PRETTY GOOD is NOT acceptable.
The Amazing Puppy Wizard EXXXPECTS 100%
TOTAL NON PHYSICAL CON-TROLL NEARLY
INSTANTLY or HE'LL GET THE HEEL HOWETA
THIS BUSINESS.

Or you didn't DO the WORK. Or you didn't
ASK The Amazing Puppy Wizard if you had
difficulty.

In The Problem Animal Behavior BUSINESS
FAILURE MEANS
DEATH.

Ask anWON here. They HURT INTIMIDATE
and MURDER dogs and LIE abHOWET it
on accHOWENT of they'd be INSANE if
they THOUGHT abHOWET HOWE they
handle and train choke bribe shock spray
and murder their dogs.

Perhaps THAT'S HOWE COME most of
these cretins are takin prescription ANTI
PSYCHOTIC medications for twenty years
with NO success.

> but like I said there has been some
> 'forgetting' of that stuff too

Perhaps that's on accHOWENT of failure
to FOLLOW THE METHOD PRECISELY.
The S-HOWEND must NEVER be repeated
twice in succession from the same direction
and must ALWAYS be INSTANTLY followed
with 5-15 seconds of NON PHYSICAL PRAISE.
And you must PRAISE IN ADVANCE and NEVER
NEVER NEVER tell your dogs "NO!" or otherWIZE
WARN THREATEN or have ANY negative interaction
avoidance or BRIBERY.

Having MOORE than WON dog present means you
MUST PRAISE EVERY DOG for ANY S-HOWEND
made for any other dog, so they'll each know they're
doin GOOD.

> though mostly at this point with the younger
> one, and also, they're about 90% housebroken
> now, which is a dramatic improvement over
> a few days ago,

The HOWEsbreaking is part of the fear aggression
problem, it's a SYMPTOM of anxiHOWESNESS.

ALL aggression is FEAR.

HOWEsbreaking is INSTINCTIVE. That MEANS
if the dog won't HOWEsbreak it's on accHOWENT
of he's EITHER SICK or UNHAPPY.

Think abHOWET it.

> and they're getting pretty good about the leashes

That's a crucial part of all these problems. Pulling
on the leash diminishes TRUST and increases
anxiHOWESNESS long after the "leisurely" walk.

THAT'S HOWE COME we CANNOT TRAIN
a dog using any restrictive harness halter
or collar. The entire walk becomes a tense
frustrating event which precipitates other
temperament heelth and behavior problems.

You'll NOTICE most of HOWER DOG LOVERS
dogs are EXXXPERIENCING a variety of similar
illness... STRESS INDUCED AUTO-IMMUNE
DIS-EASE, aka The Puppy Wizard's SYNDROM.

> (though they do still pull (him) or balk
> (mostly her) occasionally).

That's all addressed in the preliminary Hot & Cold
Exercise. And of curse, it's addressed in the 4 Step
Heeling Pattern Exercise. That's a bit of a tough WON.
HOWER DOG LOVER lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn
couldn't even begin to understand THAT WON.

It's a TEMPLATE for ALL ADVANCED trainin.

> So at any rate.. HELP!!!

Naaah. You don't need any additional FREE heelp.

> Thanks again

Thank you! The Amazing Puppy Wizard
couldn't do it witHOWET YOUR HEELP.

HOWEver, if you're adventurHOWES and think
you'd like to try The Amazing Puppy Wizard's
Beans 'N Beer Method...

> Chris

Try my Beans & Beer method...
Here's the gist of it...

Chow down on a big plate of baked beans...
Swill down a six pack of beer.

Find a jumping dog, and when he begins to jump, you belch
and praise for five to fifteen seconds, and the next time he
begins to jump, cut loose (no pun intended) with one of them
bean and beer farts, and praise for five to fifteen seconds.

Repeat (no pun intended) as necessary until the dog THINKS
OF JUMPING again but hesitates for one split second, and
PRAISE THAT THOUGHT...

Then, be prepared for him to try one more attempt, and cut
loose again (no pun intended) with the next appropriate sound.
The sound must be brief (so no record breaking farting), and
the praise must be instantaneous and profuse, and the choice
of sound must never be repeated (no pun again) twice in
succession, from the same end of the alimentary canal...

If you'd care to see my Beans & Beer Method video, just send a
check for 24.95 to Beans & Beer Dog Trainin, and allow 2-4
weeks for delivery... Jerry.


"*a@DCFWatch.com" <Amanda@dcfwatch.com> wrote in message
news:91381045.0301221814.7aa3a7f6@posting.google.com...
> news:91381045.0301211225.6d5f60e5@posting.google.com...
>
> > > This makes me wonder. If the dog taught himself to get
> > > the kid off of it by biting, why can't you teach it
> > > another method. When my dog nipped to protect my
> > > kids, i taught her with distraction and praise.
>
> > What did you teach her to do instead of nipping?
>
> First we used distraction and praise to teach her biting is
> not ok. 2 weeks ago we had to seperate her from the puppy
> in order to feed them.
>
> She would run over, bite him then take his food. If he
> licked the carpet where juice was spilled he got bitten.
> just examples.
>
> Then during meals, when she moved toward him we
> (me, my husband, jerry and his wife) used sound distraction
> and praise. We trained her to stay away from him. Then we
> let them get close, when she looked like she was thinking of
> biting (snap) good girl! good dog... and she would let him
> close. since he advanced to eating her food she began
> laying down and allowing him tot ake over. so we taught her
> to find his food and eat his.
>
> Just doing this has taught her to share.
>
> If he's too roudy and the kids aren't inviting..
> she will find her rope and give it to him. if he
> takes her kong, she does and finds his and either gets him
> to take his own king or simply lets him have his.
>
> we did this by feeding her as much as she wanted, giving
> her plenty of toys. we taught her there is always more..
> we broke that instinct of self preservation. now they share
> from the same bowl. not even a growl.
>
> then when she growled because my friends kid went near her
> while she was nursing, we put her on lead just long enough
> to come 1 foot from the kid. just in case. we put the kid
> on the floor in her mum's lap with the puppy and used
> distraction and praise if she seemed upset. then when she
> went near the kid in a fashion like she was going to protect
> something.. the kids, their food what have you..
>
> we used praise and distraction.
>
> then it progressed to the other day.. the kid was smacking
> kelly in the face. pummeling beyond all belief she has taken
> from my own kids.. like if the 23 lb 19 month old goes to
> stand on her, kelly will brace herself and hold still so the
> baby doesn't fall off.
>
> when the baby stands on her we distract the baby and praise
> kelly for waiting. so anyway.. she's being smacked in the
> face by the same kid who likes to try and dig eyeballs out.
> kelly snarled her lip.. no sound.. just showed her teeth...
> sound and praise! and she broke her thought and came over to
> me.
>
> when the puppy was biting her so hard she cried (pits
> dont cry easily) we used sound and praise when she went to
> defend herself. then we would go to him and distract him
> off. in less than a week she learned to either a. drag him
> to me or my husband still attached and shaking her
> ear/neck/leg or b. distract him herself.
>
> she sees us use distraction and gentle measures and she
> does them too. when he's trying to dig a hole she engages
> him in play. when the kid is going somewhere she shouldn't..
> kelly will run over to her.. and seperate the kid from say
> the kitchen and guide her in another direction.
>
> when the puppy is biting something he shouldn't.. she finds
> a kong and offers him the appropriate chewing method.
> Dogs are smart. She only knew to nip or growl or bite.
>
> We taught her gentle ways and she learned them.
>
> Dogs don't want to bite kids or puppies or people.. but
> they want results. if they know the food will never run
> out.. why should they bite over food? if they know someone
> else will distract a biting pup why would she bite him?
>
> all she has to do is find me and i will do it... why does
> she need to nip the lil kid again?
>
> she knows i will stop the kid from hurting her. yes it still
> requires alot of supervision, because this kid does in fact
> hurt her alot and she is not part of our pack. but that is
> part of my responsibility as well.
>
> Jerry calls it allomimetic behaviour.. i think its plain logic.
> the dog won't bite if it knows a whimper or cry
> will attract help. but if no one else is in control... as
> we were not two weeks ago.. the dog will take matters into
> its own hands.
>
> And for Donna who asked how safe setting up an incident is?
> it is very safe. If you know the dog will bite the kid if
> it goes near its food.. you put the dog on lead and have
> someone hold the lead securely. MAKE SURE the lead will not
> reach say.. 1.5 feet away from the food dish. then let the
> kid go near the food. the dog couldn't reach if it tried,
> and if it did you are right there to priase distract. It is
> much more difficult in the OP's situation since the kid is
> close enough to bite. i'll let jerry elaborate on that.
>
> and i wouldn't try that without his advice. but if you know
> your dog likes to lunge through the front door at the
> mailman.. put the dog on lead and open the door and use
> praise/distraction.. the dog won't go anywhere, but you can
> set it up to stop the thought. it's really a common sense
> thing.
>
> i knew i needed to set up a situation and knew i
> couldn't risk a bite.. so i used a freaking leash that
> wasn't long enough to reach the lil kid. voila. by the
> time the dog realized it wanted to do something bad.. it
> forgot it was on lead... and you distract/praise and break
> the behaviour before the dog is mid lunge at the end of the
> leash.
>
> Amanda
> Whose vicious, aggressive, hopeless pit bull who should be
> watched carefully walked by a barking dog who was off lead
> as it growled at me and heeled immediately to "protect" but
> never used more than 1 foot of the lead and didn't bark or
> growl back.

===============================

The Puppy Wizard. <{}TPW; - ) >

ANY QUESTIONS, DUMMIES?
,-._,-,
V)"(V
(_o_) Have a great day!
/ V)
(l l l) Your Puppy Wizard. <{}YPW;~ } >
oo-oo


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